TD04HL-15G Turbo Rebuild Write up.
#1
06-27-2011, 06:58 PM
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TD04HL-15G Turbo Rebuild Write up.
Well as most of you know not to long ago I rebuilt my 15G due to a NASTY Internal Oil leak. The Rebuild is fairly simple, it is just time consuming and requires your undivided attention.
Keep in mind this process will work on 13G, 15G, 16T, 18T, and 19T turbos in the TD04 and TD05 Series.
But Different part numbers would be used for the 16T, 18T, and 19T because they are a supper back.
the 13G and 15G use the same Flat Back Kit.
Depending on the shop you get it balanced at You can have this repair done in 2-3 hours for the experienced mechanic and 4-5 hours for the novice mechanic. Keep in mind the turbo shop will need 10 - 60 minutes of this time for the balancing.
If you do decide to do this rebuild... Myself Nor Volvoforums are responsible to any damage you do to your turbo or your vehicle. If you do not belive you are capable of doing this repair.. DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!
Below I have details on how to do this rebuild, As well as the parts and tools you will need. I will break it down into sections;
1. Parts
2. Tools
3. Removal
4. Cleaning
5. Rebuilding
6. Balancing
7. Installation
8. Testing
9. Enjoying
Parts
There are a bunch of rebuild kits you can buy on Ebay but they are 99% of the time cheap and limited in the parts you are replacing.
There are 2 companies that sell a high quality rebuild kit, one is Melett out of the UK their Rebulid cost $125 USD Shipped. The other is Genuine MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) which is what I went with which cost $80 USD shipped. There is only one company that sells the MHI Kit on ebay.
I ordered my kit Direct from MHI.
Here is a breakdown of the parts you will need for the MHI kit;
(Keep in mind that these are MHI part numbers)
(X)Quantity Part # Description
X1 K5T09671 CBV Diaphram
X1 49170-14020 Bolt
X1 05634-00620 Self-Locking Nut
X1 34336-04100 Oil Pipe Gasket
X1 49173-22500 Insert
X1 49173-22200 Deflector
X1 49177-21601 Thrust Bearing
X1 49135-42200 Lock Nut
X1 49177-22200 O-Ring
X1 49170-23201 Snap Ring
X1 49183-19300 Plate
X1 49172-23200 Piston Ring
X1 49177-21220 Bearing (x2 in Bag)
X1 49177-23100 Ring
X1 49183-42400 Thrust Ring
X1 49177-22100 O-Ring
X1 49183-42100 Thrust Sleeve
And while your there just to be safe.... From IPD
X1 7775K Turbo Drain Pipe Seal Kit
Then from where ever you get your oil and stuff...
X2 Gal Of Coolant
X1 Oil Filter
X6 Quarts of oil
Tools
Safety Glasses!
7mm Socket
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
12mm 12 point Socket or wrench
13mm Scoket
17mm Socket
Flat Head Screw driver X2
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
5mm Allen
Small Pick Set
Sharpie
Large Snap Ring Pliers (Preferably 90 Deg)
Rubber Mallet
Drain Pan (to catch the coolant)
Parts washer
New Vacuum Hose
a real Jack, not the crappy one the car came with
2 Jack stands
a Large cardboard box laid flat or a creeper.
and most of all PATIENCE!!
Removal
The Following will Be done at the Car.
Start out with disconnecting the battery.
Jack up the car (I did the passenger side cause I am Right handed, easier to work on your back)
I removed the passenger wheel so I could get some more day light.
Insert the Jack-stands underneath the sub-frame.
If you have a strut brace, remove it
Remove the Air-Box
Remove Air inlet tube to the Turbo.
Remove the upper intercooler piping
Remove the Alarm horn if you still have it
Remove the Heat Shield over the turbo.
Pull the hair pin and lift off the waste gate arm.
Now go under the car and un-do the 10mm nut that holds the 2 oil lines together You will need the 10mm wrench to hold the upper bolt.
Use the 5mm allen to remove the two allen bolts holding the oil return line to the turbo. I threaded the two bolts back into the turbo so I would not lose them. Remove the oil drain line.( You will check this later for any corrosion.)
(Cant find the pic I took)
Next with your drain pan near by, crack open the radiator drain and drain your coolant.
now back at the top Use your 17mm socket to remove the oil feed line from the turbo. Remove the banjo bolt and both copper washers and place them somewhere safe together.
Now remove the Coolant Drain hose with your 17mm. If you do not want drips of coolant in your drive way or garage use your drain pan to catch the residual coolant that will drip.
Next loosen the hose clamp on the coolant feed line.
Now with all of those lines loose You can focus on the center band clamp.
Use your 10mm socket to loosen the nut. Once its loose use a long flat head to hold the top of the bolt in the holder and continue removing the nut.
Once the nut is off the bolt will come out and you may meed to lightly tap the clamp loose. once the clamp is off your almost out.
Remove all you vacuum lines off of the turbo ( marking where they go if you need)
now with everything off and loose LIGHTLY TAP on the compressor housing with the rubber mallet to release the cartridge from the exhaust housing.
Once it pops out, you can slide out the coolant feed line and route the turbo out of the engine bay.
Make sure you have rags in the exhaust housing, and in the Intercooler inlet to prevent foreign objects from entering while you are at your bench.
The Following Will be done at your Bench or Table.
Lay some rags out so you have a clean work surface.
Lay out all of your new parts (DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THEIR BAGS UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO USE THEM)
Start By removing the rubber intercooler sleve
Next remove your waste gate by removing the 2 bolts
Now place the turbo inlet down and remove the Large snap-ring holding the compressor in the housing.
Cleaning
Now is the perfect tile to get the housing and compressor into the parts washer. Clean them till they are oil and sediment free.
If you want to clean the compressor wheels I suggest a RED scotch brite cloth. That will not remove any metal from the wheels. DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH!
Rebuilding
once that it done sit down at your bench with your compressor and start the dis-assembly.
Mark your wheels with the sharpie, as a reference when you put them back in. Making sure the exhaust marks go all the way down to the main compressor body because the cover under the wheel gets replaced.You dont need to do this but I figured It would help with the balancing.
now use your 12mm 12 point on the exhaust side and the 8mm on the intake side.
The 8mm Lock nut is REVERSE THREAD
Holding the 12mm still remove the 8mm REVERSE THREAD nut.
The intake wheel will slide off easily now.
Now lightly tap the shaft with your rubber mallet. the exhaust wheel will pop out. Most of the time the bearing will slide out with the shaft. note the way the bearing sits on the shaft, one side is tapered the other side is stepped, you will see the difference.
Set them aside and now remove the Snap-ring on the intake side.
Now use the two flat head screwdrivers to lift out the Plate, the center sleeve and deflector will come out with it.
Remove the inner O-Ring with your picks
Now lift out the thrust ring
Pull out the thrust spacer
Noting which side is down (Tapered or Stepped) Pull out the bearing
Inside the housing you will see the rings, These are the HARDEST step in the entire prosess. If you dont think you can replace these leave them alone. If not see if your turbo shop can do it for you.
Now Clean the cartridge up good getting all of the gunk out, making sure you blow it clean with air at the end.
Now its time to re-assemble.
Every thing should get a nice coating of 20-50 oil before you install the new parts.
Insert your New bearing
Place your New thrust spacer on top of the bearing
Insert the New Brass Thrust Ring
Install the New O-Ring
Now take your New Deflector, New Thrust Sleeve, New Clip, and New Plate ans assemble them exactly as the old set up is.
Slide the new assembly into place.
Install the New snap-Ring
Flip the housing over and install the New bearing.
Replace the Clip on the Shaft
Place the New cover on and Insert the shaft.
The shaft should just click into place.
Now align your Marks you made with the sharpie
Install your Intake wheel, lining it up with your mark.
Once it is aligned You can put on your NEW Lock Nut, tightening it to 2 foot lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOU WILL SNAP THE SHAFT!
Your compressor cartridge is now assembled.
You dont need to put it back in the housing yet because the turbo shop only need the cartridge to balance it.
Balancing
Balancing is highly recommended!
Your turbo spins at anywhere from 100,000 150,000 RPM's.
Any reputable turbo shop shold be able to balance it for $30 to $75.
There are also Places that you can ship your cartridge to get balanced they usually charge the same plus shipping.
Installation
Now with your freshly balanced cartridge you are ready to put it back together.
Install your cartridge into the intake housing, keep in mind there is a alignment pin.
Pop in your New Snap-Ring
Install Your New CBV
Re-Install the waste gate actuator
Re-Install the coolant feed line
Now back out to the car.
Line up the turbo with the alignment pin in the exhaust housing.
Slip the coolant feed line back into the rubber hose
Using light pushing push the housings together.
Install the clamp with your NEW bolt and lock nut.
Tighten the clamp on the coolant feed line.
Go underneath the car install the new O-Ring on the drain pipe ans slip it into place.
Install your new Gasket at the top of the pipe and thread in your allen bolts holding it in place.
Tighten the 10mm nut and bolt that holds the two oil lines together and tighten down the two allen bolts for the return line.
Use a Long Funnel and Prime the Oil inlet hole.
Install the oil feed line cleaning up the banjo bolt threads and copper washers first.
Install the coolant return line cleaning up the banjo bolt and copper washers.
Fill the Coolant Reservoir.
Do an oil and filter change.
Re-install the Intercooler piping
Install the NEW Vacuum hose.
Clean Your PTC
Re-install the inlet piping
Install your Air Box
Reconnect the battery
Do not install the heat shield untill later, it makes it easier to see leaks.
Put all your other odds and ends on.
Testing
Start the Car.
Run it for 30 sec.
Shut it off and Check your oil level, Add if needed
Re-Start the car
Let it run, Keeping your eye in the temp gauge
Add coolant when needed, keeping in mind you will have some air pockets that need to work their way out.
Check for leaks while the car is running.
If everything is tight and installed correct you will be leak free.
After about 20 minutes take her for a test drive.
Go slow and dont stray far from your house of shop.
DO NOT BOOST THE CAR! just let everything flow thru for now.
Give the turbo some break in time before heavy boosting.
I did 82 miles... too impatient to wait for 100.
Enjoying
Once broken-in, You should follow the simple rules of turbo care.
Allow the car to be completely warm before you get on it.
Allow the car to run at idle for a little bit before shutting down the motor.
Do regular oil changes and coolant flushes ever change of season.
And Most of all Enjoy your turbo....
Keep in mind this process will work on 13G, 15G, 16T, 18T, and 19T turbos in the TD04 and TD05 Series.
But Different part numbers would be used for the 16T, 18T, and 19T because they are a supper back.
the 13G and 15G use the same Flat Back Kit.
Keep in mind this process will work on 13G, 15G, 16T, 18T, and 19T turbos in the TD04 and TD05 Series.
But Different part numbers would be used for the 16T, 18T, and 19T because they are a supper back.
the 13G and 15G use the same Flat Back Kit.
Depending on the shop you get it balanced at You can have this repair done in 2-3 hours for the experienced mechanic and 4-5 hours for the novice mechanic. Keep in mind the turbo shop will need 10 - 60 minutes of this time for the balancing.
If you do decide to do this rebuild... Myself Nor Volvoforums are responsible to any damage you do to your turbo or your vehicle. If you do not belive you are capable of doing this repair.. DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!
Below I have details on how to do this rebuild, As well as the parts and tools you will need. I will break it down into sections;
1. Parts
2. Tools
3. Removal
4. Cleaning
5. Rebuilding
6. Balancing
7. Installation
8. Testing
9. Enjoying
Parts
There are a bunch of rebuild kits you can buy on Ebay but they are 99% of the time cheap and limited in the parts you are replacing.
There are 2 companies that sell a high quality rebuild kit, one is Melett out of the UK their Rebulid cost $125 USD Shipped. The other is Genuine MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) which is what I went with which cost $80 USD shipped. There is only one company that sells the MHI Kit on ebay.
I ordered my kit Direct from MHI.
Here is a breakdown of the parts you will need for the MHI kit;
(Keep in mind that these are MHI part numbers)
(X)Quantity Part # Description
X1 K5T09671 CBV Diaphram
X1 49170-14020 Bolt
X1 05634-00620 Self-Locking Nut
X1 34336-04100 Oil Pipe Gasket
X1 49173-22500 Insert
X1 49173-22200 Deflector
X1 49177-21601 Thrust Bearing
X1 49135-42200 Lock Nut
X1 49177-22200 O-Ring
X1 49170-23201 Snap Ring
X1 49183-19300 Plate
X1 49172-23200 Piston Ring
X1 49177-21220 Bearing (x2 in Bag)
X1 49177-23100 Ring
X1 49183-42400 Thrust Ring
X1 49177-22100 O-Ring
X1 49183-42100 Thrust Sleeve
And while your there just to be safe.... From IPD
X1 7775K Turbo Drain Pipe Seal Kit
Then from where ever you get your oil and stuff...
X2 Gal Of Coolant
X1 Oil Filter
X6 Quarts of oil
Tools
Safety Glasses!
7mm Socket
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
12mm 12 point Socket or wrench
13mm Scoket
17mm Socket
Flat Head Screw driver X2
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
5mm Allen
Small Pick Set
Sharpie
Large Snap Ring Pliers (Preferably 90 Deg)
Rubber Mallet
Drain Pan (to catch the coolant)
Parts washer
New Vacuum Hose
a real Jack, not the crappy one the car came with
2 Jack stands
a Large cardboard box laid flat or a creeper.
and most of all PATIENCE!!
Removal
The Following will Be done at the Car.
Start out with disconnecting the battery.
Jack up the car (I did the passenger side cause I am Right handed, easier to work on your back)
I removed the passenger wheel so I could get some more day light.
Insert the Jack-stands underneath the sub-frame.
If you have a strut brace, remove it
Remove the Air-Box
Remove Air inlet tube to the Turbo.
Remove the upper intercooler piping
Remove the Alarm horn if you still have it
Remove the Heat Shield over the turbo.
Pull the hair pin and lift off the waste gate arm.
Now go under the car and un-do the 10mm nut that holds the 2 oil lines together You will need the 10mm wrench to hold the upper bolt.
Use the 5mm allen to remove the two allen bolts holding the oil return line to the turbo. I threaded the two bolts back into the turbo so I would not lose them. Remove the oil drain line.( You will check this later for any corrosion.)
(Cant find the pic I took)
Next with your drain pan near by, crack open the radiator drain and drain your coolant.
now back at the top Use your 17mm socket to remove the oil feed line from the turbo. Remove the banjo bolt and both copper washers and place them somewhere safe together.
Now remove the Coolant Drain hose with your 17mm. If you do not want drips of coolant in your drive way or garage use your drain pan to catch the residual coolant that will drip.
Next loosen the hose clamp on the coolant feed line.
Now with all of those lines loose You can focus on the center band clamp.
Use your 10mm socket to loosen the nut. Once its loose use a long flat head to hold the top of the bolt in the holder and continue removing the nut.
Once the nut is off the bolt will come out and you may meed to lightly tap the clamp loose. once the clamp is off your almost out.
Remove all you vacuum lines off of the turbo ( marking where they go if you need)
now with everything off and loose LIGHTLY TAP on the compressor housing with the rubber mallet to release the cartridge from the exhaust housing.
Once it pops out, you can slide out the coolant feed line and route the turbo out of the engine bay.
Make sure you have rags in the exhaust housing, and in the Intercooler inlet to prevent foreign objects from entering while you are at your bench.
The Following Will be done at your Bench or Table.
Lay some rags out so you have a clean work surface.
Lay out all of your new parts (DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THEIR BAGS UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO USE THEM)
Start By removing the rubber intercooler sleve
Next remove your waste gate by removing the 2 bolts
Now place the turbo inlet down and remove the Large snap-ring holding the compressor in the housing.
Cleaning
Now is the perfect tile to get the housing and compressor into the parts washer. Clean them till they are oil and sediment free.
If you want to clean the compressor wheels I suggest a RED scotch brite cloth. That will not remove any metal from the wheels. DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH!
Rebuilding
once that it done sit down at your bench with your compressor and start the dis-assembly.
Mark your wheels with the sharpie, as a reference when you put them back in. Making sure the exhaust marks go all the way down to the main compressor body because the cover under the wheel gets replaced.You dont need to do this but I figured It would help with the balancing.
now use your 12mm 12 point on the exhaust side and the 8mm on the intake side.
The 8mm Lock nut is REVERSE THREAD
Holding the 12mm still remove the 8mm REVERSE THREAD nut.
The intake wheel will slide off easily now.
Now lightly tap the shaft with your rubber mallet. the exhaust wheel will pop out. Most of the time the bearing will slide out with the shaft. note the way the bearing sits on the shaft, one side is tapered the other side is stepped, you will see the difference.
Set them aside and now remove the Snap-ring on the intake side.
Now use the two flat head screwdrivers to lift out the Plate, the center sleeve and deflector will come out with it.
Remove the inner O-Ring with your picks
Now lift out the thrust ring
Pull out the thrust spacer
Noting which side is down (Tapered or Stepped) Pull out the bearing
Inside the housing you will see the rings, These are the HARDEST step in the entire prosess. If you dont think you can replace these leave them alone. If not see if your turbo shop can do it for you.
Now Clean the cartridge up good getting all of the gunk out, making sure you blow it clean with air at the end.
Now its time to re-assemble.
Every thing should get a nice coating of 20-50 oil before you install the new parts.
Insert your New bearing
Place your New thrust spacer on top of the bearing
Insert the New Brass Thrust Ring
Install the New O-Ring
Now take your New Deflector, New Thrust Sleeve, New Clip, and New Plate ans assemble them exactly as the old set up is.
Slide the new assembly into place.
Install the New snap-Ring
Flip the housing over and install the New bearing.
Replace the Clip on the Shaft
Place the New cover on and Insert the shaft.
The shaft should just click into place.
Now align your Marks you made with the sharpie
Install your Intake wheel, lining it up with your mark.
Once it is aligned You can put on your NEW Lock Nut, tightening it to 2 foot lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOU WILL SNAP THE SHAFT!
Your compressor cartridge is now assembled.
You dont need to put it back in the housing yet because the turbo shop only need the cartridge to balance it.
Balancing
Balancing is highly recommended!
Your turbo spins at anywhere from 100,000 150,000 RPM's.
Any reputable turbo shop shold be able to balance it for $30 to $75.
There are also Places that you can ship your cartridge to get balanced they usually charge the same plus shipping.
Installation
Now with your freshly balanced cartridge you are ready to put it back together.
Install your cartridge into the intake housing, keep in mind there is a alignment pin.
Pop in your New Snap-Ring
Install Your New CBV
Re-Install the waste gate actuator
Re-Install the coolant feed line
Now back out to the car.
Line up the turbo with the alignment pin in the exhaust housing.
Slip the coolant feed line back into the rubber hose
Using light pushing push the housings together.
Install the clamp with your NEW bolt and lock nut.
Tighten the clamp on the coolant feed line.
Go underneath the car install the new O-Ring on the drain pipe ans slip it into place.
Install your new Gasket at the top of the pipe and thread in your allen bolts holding it in place.
Tighten the 10mm nut and bolt that holds the two oil lines together and tighten down the two allen bolts for the return line.
Use a Long Funnel and Prime the Oil inlet hole.
Install the oil feed line cleaning up the banjo bolt threads and copper washers first.
Install the coolant return line cleaning up the banjo bolt and copper washers.
Fill the Coolant Reservoir.
Do an oil and filter change.
Re-install the Intercooler piping
Install the NEW Vacuum hose.
Clean Your PTC
Re-install the inlet piping
Install your Air Box
Reconnect the battery
Do not install the heat shield untill later, it makes it easier to see leaks.
Put all your other odds and ends on.
Testing
Start the Car.
Run it for 30 sec.
Shut it off and Check your oil level, Add if needed
Re-Start the car
Let it run, Keeping your eye in the temp gauge
Add coolant when needed, keeping in mind you will have some air pockets that need to work their way out.
Check for leaks while the car is running.
If everything is tight and installed correct you will be leak free.
After about 20 minutes take her for a test drive.
Go slow and dont stray far from your house of shop.
DO NOT BOOST THE CAR! just let everything flow thru for now.
Give the turbo some break in time before heavy boosting.
I did 82 miles... too impatient to wait for 100.
Enjoying
Once broken-in, You should follow the simple rules of turbo care.
Allow the car to be completely warm before you get on it.
Allow the car to run at idle for a little bit before shutting down the motor.
Do regular oil changes and coolant flushes ever change of season.
And Most of all Enjoy your turbo....
Keep in mind this process will work on 13G, 15G, 16T, 18T, and 19T turbos in the TD04 and TD05 Series.
But Different part numbers would be used for the 16T, 18T, and 19T because they are a supper back.
the 13G and 15G use the same Flat Back Kit.
Last edited by MattyXXL; 06-27-2011 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Added some pics
#3
06-28-2011, 05:08 PM
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If anyone is looking for a printable version.... It is in PDF Format
Click Here --->15G_Rebuild_Write_up.pdf - download now for free. File sharing. Software file sharing. Free file hosting. File upload. FileFactory.com
Click Here --->15G_Rebuild_Write_up.pdf - download now for free. File sharing. Software file sharing. Free file hosting. File upload. FileFactory.com
#8
07-05-2011, 10:39 PM
#9
07-05-2011, 11:12 PM
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
At our motorcycle shop we have a corporate account with MHI direct, so I got my first kit thru htem...
But, I have rebuilt 2 other turbos for people since and I got the genuine kits for them from here --->Authentic-Boost items - Get great deals on Turbocharger, Hose Kit items on eBay Stores!
Go with the genuine Mitsubishi kit
there are knock off kits but remember you get what you pay for.. my advise spend the extra $30..
or you can get them here but they are more expensive--->G-Pop Shop :: Rebuilt Kits quick links :: Mitsubishi Rebuild Kits They will also balance and ship it back..
But, I have rebuilt 2 other turbos for people since and I got the genuine kits for them from here --->Authentic-Boost items - Get great deals on Turbocharger, Hose Kit items on eBay Stores!
Go with the genuine Mitsubishi kit
there are knock off kits but remember you get what you pay for.. my advise spend the extra $30..
or you can get them here but they are more expensive--->G-Pop Shop :: Rebuilt Kits quick links :: Mitsubishi Rebuild Kits They will also balance and ship it back..
#11
03-16-2012, 06:41 PM
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jessica
Nitrous, Super Chargers, & Turbos
7
07-06-2010 12:53 AM
