This procedure works great. I only needed 10 quarts of Valvoline Dexron III to complete the task. No need to disconnect any hoses. I drained, refilled, and ran thru gears only 3 times.

Reminder... Make sure jack stands raise front wheels at least 2 inches off of ground. Apply brakes between shifts between reverse, drive, and park.

I purchased impact 6-point 24mm socket at NAPA. I already had a 4 inch extension. Don't forget to purchase new aluminum crush washer for drain plug. You cannot use crush washer for oil plug. The crush washer for auto trans plug is much thicker.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tips.php#transflush2

ATF flush: step-by-step
cn

1. RE: "ATF is not a service item", the owner manual says "no need to flush the ATF" for normal service, but considering that it is a very expensive item to repair and with my modified technique it is very easy to flush (easier than doing engine oil change).

2. Here is my technique-modified from Haynes. No need to remove the battery and battery tray and no need to disconnect the hose from the cooler. Get a box wrench 24-mm (Sears). The drain plug for the ATF is on the Right side of the Transmission casing. Drain ATF, you should get approx. 3.5 liters out the first time. This is the amount you need to put back during the final top-up.

However, for the each flush cycle: a. Reinstall the drain plug finger-tight b. Add just 2 liters of ATF c. Start the engine (don't drive as the drain plug is not tightened), shift through all gears with at least 5 seconds in each gear. d. Drain the ATF

Repeat the above steps until the ATF is clear, it usually takes 3-4 cycles or approx. 8 liters of ATf to be wasted. At the final topup, add approx. 3 liters, run the engine and check the ATF (using standard procedure as in the onwer manual as to how to check the ATF level). In my experience during the final run I added 3.5 liters. This way you only need one case of 12 liters of ATF. I think this is good preventive maintenance.

----- Edit -----
FYI -- ipd USA offers a ATF flush kit

http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.as...549&RootID=629
------ Edit -----
This does NOT apply to 1999 and newer Volvo(s) which have AW55-50/51SN transmission. This transmission requires Mobil/Volvo JWS 3309. It is not synthetic. It is expensive -- $18/quart.

r213faq

 

Great post as always.

By the way the drain plug side is a 15/16.

 

I used this method; however, didn't raise the wheels so they would spin in Reverse/Drive. Went through the gears with brakes applied.

 

Nice writeup! I did it the same way except I drove around for a few days between each drain and refill. I was afraid I'd overfill so I measured what I drained by pouring it into old quart containers so I could refill exactly what I took out. Fluid is nice and red now! I used a 15/16 too since I didn't have a 24mm wrench at the time.

 

Hi guys,
can I just use a regular aluminum washer 15/16 from hardware store? I've been looking at all my local auto part stores but no one carry this washer?
Thanks so much

 

Decided to do a transmission service since my car is dropping into reverse hard sometimes and every once in a while it acts like it doesn't want to drop all the way in 1st at a traffic light.

I decided to get the 15/16 wrench instead of the 24mm wrench, for some reason it was cheaper at Sears, go figure. Anyway, I got 3 gallons of the fluid. When I checked my fluid, it was brown not red, like dark murky lake water. I decided that I would do 3 fluid drain and refills, one each day. When I drained the fluid more than 4 quarts come out. I think it was over filled. When I checked the level yesterday or the day before, it was over the lines on the stick (the owners manual says it may read more than full and it's ok).

I just did my first drain and refill and my reverse is a little smoother already. I don't understand how Volvo engineers could ever think that these transmissions could go forever without a fluid change. One thing that could effect it is when the radiator is replaced. The cooling lines are disconnected and maybe that contaminates the system. I think I'm going to do mine every 50k.

I just checked the owners manual on-line and it states that the transmission should be "inspected" every 10k. It does NOT say that the fluid NEVER has to be changed. It doesn't even say anything about what should be done if you tow with the car like other models. So, my interpatation of that INSPECT statement could mean that the mechanic WOULD replace the fluid if they feel it is breaking down. So, if they pull the stick and the fluid is NOT red, they might just change it.
https://www.customers.volvocars.com/...8_1.html#pg8.4

My conclusion is for everyone to check the fluid ever 5k and replace it every 50k unless it turns a NON-RED color prior to the 25k.

 

What about pulling the pan? Is there a screen & magnet in there? Will ALL the fluid come out. Can't this be done. If not, why not? Inquiring minds want to know...thanks!

 

Please clarify- other posts I've seen say a simple sump drain will produce 3.2-3.5 Quarts. This post says 3.5 Liters. which is it? English or metric? Thanks!

 

Well, 3.5 liters is 3.69 quarts, really not enough difference to speak of. The point is to add what you remove, and when all is said and done you have the correct amount of fluid in there when your finished.

As for a full service overhaul, I'm not about to pull the pan off the tranny. You are more than welcome to do that to your car and let us know how it works out. All of the fluid will NOT come out with a simple drain from the drain plug on the bottom. That is why we are doing a three drain - refill process. We think it will get 90% of the fluid replaced. I'm not sure how much fluid the system holds but I think it's about 6 quarts. That being said, iPd and maybe another company sells a flush kit that gets most of the fluid out. The transmission is cooled with the radiator I believe so there is fluid there.

My take is, pull the stick, if the fluid is NOT red do the drain and refill a few times to try to replace most of it. I purchased the fluid from Wal-Mart is was WAY cheaper there than anywhere else.

Just checked the on-line manual. It states that the system has 2 gal (7.6 liters). So, if I got 1 gallon out and added a gallon the 1st time, I now have 50/50 mix. When I do it the 2nd time I will have a 75/25 mix (new/old). When I do it a third time, I will have a 87/13 mix. Most of the fluid will be new and good enough for me because each drain/refill will only take the old mix number down by 1/2.
https://www.customers.volvocars.com/...9_1.html#pg9.5

 

rspi- your procedure is exactly how I did my ATF change. I didnt really want to disconnect non leaking hoses. I certainly wasnt going to get into taking off the (non leaking) pan! (Is there a pan?) I should've done a quick mental SAE to metric conversion- your right, the difference is negligable.

When I first drained the sump, (engine warm) I got about 5 quarts out. Black. I refilled with 5 quarts. later I checked the level with the procedure in my manual (engine running) I dont really get this checking level with the engine running thing, seems like it splashes all over the stick. According to this check it looked way high. I drained it the 3rd time saturday and refilled with about 3.5 quarts. Checked with the engine running, still looks way too high.

So currently have about 3.5 quarts in the sump- I wonder if I'm OK with that. Wish I could just check it with the engine off, fluid cold. Wouldnt that be simpler? Thoughts? Dave

 

I'm guessing that there is no slushing on the dip stick. Also I'm guessing that there is some kind of fluid circulation going on with the car running. May not be easy but as long as your not running it low you should be ok. Again, my guess is that the fluid got overfilled when someone guessed how much fluid they lost during a radiator replacement.

When I drained my fluid I put my oil catcher under it. Then I put the oil from there into a 2 quart bottle and got 2+ fills of that bottle. That's how I know it was more than 4 quarts. After just 1 fluid drain/re-fill I am still shifting in reverse a lot softer.

As for the pan, I didn't see one either. Not like the 960 I had. Anyway, I do remember that "curiosity killed the cat" and I want no part of that.

 

rspi- yeah, previous owner probably overfilled it. I've owned it about a month now, getting some bugs out. It shifts fine, I just thought changing all the fluids was in order and the stuff that came out was really black. didnt smell burnt, just black. Would it be a bad idea to add the rest of my gallon to make it an even 4 quarts in the sump? D

 

I would just get it to the full mark on the stick. I removed about 4.25 qtrs and added 4. I will check again and may only add 3.5 this time, if the level still seems high.

BTW, Before I forget again. TO ALL THAT ARE READING: WARNING: When you go to check your transmission fluid, the stick is under the air intake tube. DO NOT do what I did and squeeze your hand past the throttle body cover, it can cut you. Took a nice slice of skin off of the back of my had. Nasty scar that has had a hard time closing up since Friday, today is Monday (it actually bled a little today after bumping it). Remove the throttle body cover before trying to check, service your transmission.

 

I picked up another 850. This one had real bad tranny problems. Read the link below.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...her-day-54018/

 

IMHO >> Yes it would be a very bad idea if it fills it up to the point it starts to foam. If it starts to foam you are now running your clutches and bearings on half oil and half air.

This is from a Transmission rebuilder:
Will it hurt to overfill the transmission? In a word, no! Although, it is possible that gross overfilling can cause the fluid to be subjected to moving parts and become aerated which could cause abnormal operation. You may also notice leaks that ordinarily would not occur.

There is a cover on the transmission. If you ever have a shift solenoid fail it's where you'd have to go to get to it.

 

OK, I have a question... Would it be safer for the transmission to drain/flush it while it's cold? I read about people stating that they have problems shortly after a flush/fluid change. I'm wondering if draining fluid out of a HOT transmission is a bad thing to do?

 

I was just about resigned to NOT finding this question...then I find it in the last post!

From the owner's manual for a '94, re checking the trans fluid level:

Park the car on a level surface with the engine idling . Slowly move the gear selector lever through all the shift positions and then to position P. Wait 3 minutes before checking the oil level. As the illustration shows, the dipstick has a COLD and a HOT side. The oil level should between the MIN and MAX marks. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth.

This is ambiguous: wait 3 minutes after going through all the gears, then check it while the engine's still running, OR shut off the engine, THEN wait 3 minutes before checking?

So: 1) hot, cold, or doesn't matter, and 2) running, or not?

Thanks!

 

All automatic transmissions are checked with the engine running. There are some that say to check in neutral but most are done in park, it's safer.

Now that I've said that I'm sure someone has one vehicle that the engineer has a spec to check it with the engine off. But all the others are checked with the engine idling.

It matters a lot if it's running or not and there is a difference in cold and hot just like in the power steering or coolant reservoir as they usually have "cold" and "hot" full marks. There is some expansion in the fluids between the just started condition and having been run down the freeway for an hour. I think it's a little more reliable checking it after you've driven it somewhere and you're using the "hot" side. Just my opinion.

RSPI, draining the fluid hot is supposed to eliminate more of the material you want to get out of the transmission as it's in suspension in hot recently circulated fluid. In cold fluid a lot of that stuff has settled and the fluid being thicker doesn't drain as easily or fully.
But in the real world is there much of a difference ??? Don't know but I'd be more inclined to do it warm same as engine oil as I feel you do get more of the "particles" out.
But I'm not so sure a good magnet taped to the side of the oil filter wouldn't do as much good between changes.

I worked in fleet service for a company with tens of thousands of vehicles. My job, I was one of about forty five "car guys" was to control maintenance and repair costs to the different fleets our company had contracts with.
Most people who have a problem with a transmission service or especially a pressure flush with a dedicated machine sold by a kid at a fast lube are victims of doing the right thing way too late. After about 100K if you haven't touched the transmission as in a service or flush it's best not to. That is a rule of thumb learned by experience of many vehicles of different types and various miles.

And yes I DIY flushed mine with black fluid at about 265K because I couldn't stand the fluid. I still keep thinking mine is going to go simply because I've never seen fluid that bad. But me being me, I chanced it. That and somewhere in the back of my mind it would have given me a reason to have it rebuilt stronger if it failed.

What happens is that in many cases the fresh, clean, pink, slippery fluid lets the friction clutches and bands inside the transmission slip and it burns up in about a month. The "grit" that was floating around in there is what was helping it hold together. This is a seat of the pants, cause and effect on may different models, makes and weight classes that we as a company saw happening and tried to prevent.

Changing the fluid once in a while is as good a thing as doing it for the engine and for the same reasons. Adding an inline filter and an aftermarket cooler will help the fluid and the transmission live longer. Doesn't matter if you drop the 3 or 4 quarts with the drain plug or take off the hose and flush 8 or 9 quarts through the system it's a good maintenance procedure .... unless you have major miles on it. Then you are taking a chance of damaging the transmission against hopefully prolonging it's life and improving it's performance. In the end if you have high miles you have to make a choice and if you asked me I'd tell you not to even though I chose to do it myself.

 

OK.... Let me get this straight. . . .


- The AW50-42LE transmission (found in the '97 850 2.4L) has no filter accessible from the outside.
- Even with 270k miles on a transmission, it still just needs to be drained and refilled.
- There isn't an transmission oil pan, but there is a gasket??
- Adding an in-line filter might be something to consider, but which one??
- Where would you install the in-line filter anyway??


I just bought this car a couple months ago, and I was fairly certain that the transmission had a slow leak. I saw it dripping when I purchased the car, but I figured I'd just do a flush w/ new filter kit. Soo.... if I'm going to do all this, I'd like to just replace the pan gasket if there is one. I haven't jacked up the car yet, but I sure can't see it from a quick glance under the car while it's dark. I see a Felpro one available, but some people say there is no pan, so perhaps this gasket goes somewhere else??


EDIT: Look what I found...

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...rhaul_kit.html
EDIT TWO: Found one more...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...olvo&model=850
Hmmm....

 

Sooooooooooooooooooooo, what's your point? Are you asking if you can rebuild your transmission? Are you asking if you can get the car on ramps and take something apart and replace a filter?

Have you gotten under the car and spotted a leak? Is the transmission slipping? How is the fluid and level?