Evap system with broken hose cause problems?
 

Ok so lately my car has been a bit sluggish at times, like takes longer then usual to accelerate quickly, sometimes its ok, but havent been able to get over 6 psi, when i know the car has gone up to 9 when its running better. well i found one of the lines was broken on the evap i believe return line. i was wondering if this could cause some issues? also my MPG has been horrible lately, im thinking it is related. well i fixed the line this evening and replaced my fuel filter. I would also smell gas periodically. one wierd event as well, i accidentally ran the car with the gas cap off, and for some odd reason ran a little better....

How is it running since you fixed the EVAP hose? I wonder if your lack of boost and slow acceleration could be some sort of bigger vacuum leak?

Its been running a hell of a lot smoother lol, there is a line running from the intake to a relay/sensor thing that has 2 wires plugged into it, from there it goes to the charcoal canister from there it returns to the tank and that's the line that was broken, kinda like acting like a giant vacuum leak i guess... before i fixed the line the relay/sensor would click a lot of the time, since i fixed the line it hasn't been clicking... my idle has improved, before in gear stopped at a light etc it was rough

I had the same problem. That hard plastic tubing is actually the vapor line, that feeds fuel vapors from the tank's filler neck to the charcoal canister. That's why it also smells gasoline when it is cracked / broken. The clicking device is the Evap Solenoid Valve. This is controlled by the ECU that opens and closes this valve so that vapors stored in the canister, are re-introduced (purged) into the intake.

henry10 was yours running rough with the line broken?

Still only boosting to 5, replacing CBV this weekend, and o2 next week.

hmm got the cbv off and it was full of oil, from when the pcv was bad, and wasnt fully sealing, think this could be my boost issue?

Yes. It was. It also threw an Evap code and was smelling gas. I did other things at the same time (eg tune-up, air filter, capped vacuum ports that were open, plus the turbo control valve had wrong vacuum connections to it). It was hard to say which one contributed more. However, smell is gone and Evap code did not come back.

I have not done anything with the CBV (Compressor Bypass Valve?)

If you still have boost issues after you clean the CBV, I would go back and look into the EVAP.

You said that you don't hear clicking any more. The Solenoid Purge Valve is closed at idle, but ECU opens it as rpm increase. You should hear it clicking as you rev from idle. If it doesn't click, it means that either the valve is bad (unlikely) or ECU may have detected a fault in the EVAP system and goes open-loop, which means it keeps the valve closed and EVAP system inoperational.

This fault would most likely be another line breakage.

There are 2 parts to the EVAP line:

A- The hard plastic tubing from the Filler Neck to the Canister is very low pressure (I would guess 1 to 2 psi). (Actually there is a rollover valve in this line, next to the fuel tank. This rollover valve shuts down the fuel/vapor flow if car is tilted 45 degrees (rollover accident). Vapors flow basically from the fuel tank to the Charcoal Canister.

B- The line from Canister ----> Solenoid Purge Valve -----> Intake has a vacuum pressure on it (I would guess around 13-15 psi when valve is open).

BTW, there is a check (one-way) valve on the Canister, so that vapors would only flow towards the Intake.

My problem was in line A. Problem with line B, especially with the portion than runs from Purge Valve -----> Intake would be more detrimental and would affect boost, and many things. However symptoms (poor running) would still be there even at zero boost.

Still only getting 5psi :( which way does the actuator bar turn to get more or less. I have new ic hoses on the way as well , could a failing Maf cause this? The line from the intake to control valve is fine

I think a failing MAF would throw a bunch of codes. On turbo ops, more knowledgeable members can probably help you more.

Hi, did you solve the issue? my car lost boost pressure when I fixed the hard lines that went to the canister (rat chewed holes in them), before fixing it my car would boost to 3/4 on the white line now it doesn't even go halfway on the line :(

code,p0441
 

hi there,could someone please tell me what a,purge flow fault is please.the odb reader sais it code p0441 and i looked it up and thats what it was.its a orange engine light but the funny thing is,is when i stared useing E10 this light came on a few days after i filled my tank with E10 fuel.so i had it looked at and it needed a new purge valve which i had done in november.but this other light is on now.any ideas how to fix it please.

Is your car capable of using E10? I believe there is an online checker somewhere. I think E10 is a European thing and there's still some cars that can't use it.

Oil trap hose loose none starting
 

Hi all,
I have 291k miles, on my 2L20V N/A, and the plastic hose from the flame trap down to the oil trap has come away, i believe as my misses spotted smoke coming up and I can smell oil.

My car will start cold but then turn it off at 10 minutes journey she won't restart.

I presume the PCV system needs to be fully sealed and have leaking air come in via the bottom of the connecting tube is throwing everything array.

I am planning to buy all the bits from the dealer for the job, unfortunately, i can't do the job here where i live.

Thanks for any input.
Mark

hi there,yes it said E10 is ok for my car.