Front crank/cam seals replacement
 

I am going to be changing the crank/cam seals on the front of the engine. I just want to make sure I know what I need to do before getting started on this.

First thing- The crank pulley that the serp. belt rides on, does that need a puller to remove or should it just pop off when I take the bolts out? Also, does the crankshaft nut need to be removed to get that pulley off in addition to the four smaller bolts?

Second thing- Should I remove the crankshaft nut with the timing belt on or off? I will be using an impact, I don't know if leaving the belt on would make a difference or not.

Third thing- If I can not see the mark on the t.b. sprocket(I have heard it is hard to see), can I just make my own mark on the sprocket and somewhere on the block and use that as a reference? I would be doing this before I take off the belt and the cam marks would be lined up.

Fourth thing- For the timing sprocket, is there any tips on getting that off? I rented a puller set from Advance Auto and I want to make sure it will work. I believe the kit uses a steering wheel type puller, but much beefier. I think it also has a 3 jaw type puller, but I don't know if that will work or not. Is this sprocket going to be a pain to get off? Should I soak it with PB Blaster before I try. Will I need to use any type of heat on this?

Fifth thing- When removing the cam sprockets, should I make a mark on the cam and sprocket before removing to make sure it gets put back on in the right position? I think I read that the holes on the sprocket are slotted so it needs to be put back on the exact same position. Will I need a puller to take off the cam sprockets?

I think that is all the questions I have. I do not want any big surprises when I start taking stuff apart, so I am trying to get everything covered. Luckily, if I have problems the old owner of my car said he will come over and help me out if I need it. I will probably have him come over when I put the belt back on because I read that it can be kinda tricky.

Anyways, I think this is the end of my novel. Sorry to make you read through all of this. I just do not want to mess this up!

Thank you for any help!

1. Remove the nut and 4 bolts and the serp. part pulley will come off after a few good taps with a hard rubber mallet or a hammer.

2. Remove the nut with the belt still on.

3. Yes if you cannot see the marks you can make your own.

4. It will be tight all the way off. But the steering wheel type will be the best to use.

5. Yes mark the pulley and cam before removing it.

Thank you Tech, I got it all apart today. It looked like only one of the cam seals were leaking and the crank seal was dry. I am still gonna change all three seals, but is there anything else that could be leaking oil in the timing belt area?

Nope only the seal will leak in that area.

I am dumb! While using the Haynes manual suggestion of using a screw to pull out the seal, I managed to leave a nice mark on one of the cams. It was the one towards the rear of the car and space was a little more restricted because of the strut tower and the screw must have went in a little crooked. I will just hope that it seals, I need to get this car into good shape so I can drive it and I am running out of money. Luckily it was just the cam and not the head, crank, or oil pan I gouged.

Fingers crossed for you!!

I just remembered hearing about repair sleeves for stuff like this. I found this company, http://www.microsleeve.com/ , and of course they don't have anything for Volvo. I am going to call them tomorrow and see if they can do custom sizes.

As long as you cannot see past the seal you should be fine.

U.P.S. brought me my parts today and everything has gone back together good so far, but the timing belt does not want to slide on the tensioner pulley. I have the tensioner compressed and the belt is on tight going up to the cam pulleys, but it still needs just a little more slack to get on. Is there any tips?

Sometimes you have to move the cam pulley a little to get the slack to get it to slide on.
I always finish on the exhaust cam.

I think I figured out what I was doing wrong. I think I red somewhere that the washer/spacer thing that goes in between the tensioner and tensioner pulley goes on after the belt goes on and the pin is released from the tensioner. I did it that way and it went together much easier. The only problem I have now is the crank pulley is a tooth off after I rotate the engine. I am thinking if I move it a tooth off in the opposite direction it should be right on when I am done.

Hopefully this is the last time I need to compress the tensioner! Thanks for all the help Tech!

I got it all back together and it runs great with no bent valves:D I am sure next time it won't take nearly as long as it did this time.

Thanks again for all the help!

No problem glad I could help!!