I don't have a pic, it would be hard to get a decent one back where that peice is, but it is easy to find, it is fitted into the turbo intake hose right before the turbo. It has 2 vac lines going to it, one that is almost an inch in diameter, and one that is really small. Plus it has a wiring connection on the side. If you don't take the hose clamp off the larger vac line you should be able to pull on that line and the piece should come with it. About the egr, you can unbolt it from the manifold with it in place, but there is a metal line going to the egr and I don't think you would be able to move it out of your way enough to access the hole. You can access it from above when you pull out the plastic part that has all the nipple on, but I don't know how you'd keep all the carbon from falling into the valve, unless of course if you can somehow move it out of the way.

 

I'll give it a try, thanks.

 

If you have a small attachment for a shop vac, you may be able to go through the top of the manifold with a long drill bit, then suck everything out after you get the hole reamed out.

 

Tech/jmana

I spent this afternoon working on the 850 while my kids played with the neighbours and my wife worked in the garden. I removed the air box, the hoses, clamps, connectors, etc. I did not access/open the intake manifold. I was surprised by the amount of oily crap that accumulates everywhere. I cleaned all the components and air passages I could access but I did not reassemble everything because the sun sets early this time of the year. I hope I remember how everything was connected when I continue tomorrow.

I did the following test after cleaning: close oil filler tap tightly and tighten oil dipstick. Disconnect the turbo side of the hose that goes from the oil trap to the air intake hose. If I blow into that hose I can hear the air going into the oil trap and after a while I can't blow any more. If I pull the dipstick out I can continue blowing and the air comes out the dipstick.

Is this normal or should I be able to continue blowing without any resistance without having to pull the dipstick?

What is the sensor on the air intake hose close to the turbo?

I understand that if I let the oil trap breath directly to the air instead of going back to the air intake hose , the engine will work correctly as long as the turbo vaccum is maintained by clogging the necessary holes. I will get new elbows and hoses from the US but until those parts arrive I want to see if the car is breathing correctly.

Thanks

 

I don't think that's a sensor, I think it is some kind of heating element. I read somewhere that it gets to 80 degrees as soon as you start the car.

 

I haven't been able to find the proper into anywhere what that sensor is for.

I would try how you want to do it and see how things go.
On alot of the elbows I have seen many people just install vaccum line instead of the elbows.

 

According to this link it is the PCV heater part number 1367839. Apparently if I disconnect the PCV hose that goes to the turbo it I will probably get a CEL.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=21020

 

I still donĀ“t understand why Volvo needed to use so many components to get air from the oil trap to the intake. There are about 7 hoses + pips + elbows + clamps + foam to do that. Seems to be a lazy design. I wonder how they solve that in a Japanese car.

Regarding the hose that connects to the PCV heater, there is a 1/2 inch tube and 3mm diameter hollow tube/wire that seems to be some kind of breather. Mine is very rigid and broken, probably due to bad manipulation. What is that part for? A vaccum line? If so, it is obviously not a good design since that kind of plastic does not handle high temps, oil and many years very well.

 

+1. I donĀ“t know about the oil trap itself, but the rest of the components are so freaking dirty and oily that it is disgusting just to manipulate them. For 80 bucks you can buy the all the parts you need for this repair and it is definitely DIY if you are patient. IĀ“d say it is probably harder to assemble a Chinese bicycle without instructions than to do PCV maintenance.

 

From researching the PCV system, I have figured out that the smaller line goes to the side of the intake and sucks out the gasses at idle and when decelerating. The larger line goes straight from the turbo intake hose to the oil trap to suck out the gasses the rest of the time. It is a wierd system.

 

It's over/poorly engineered if you ask me. That thin line will definitely get clogged after some years or break due to the kind of material they are using. Is the PCV included in the factory maintenance schedule? If so, it would not be that bad since the parts are cheap and easy to change.

 

Update: PCV cleaning is finished. No more steam coming from the dipstick! If I had to do it again I would start by cleaning the PCV heater valve and connecting pipes before even bothering with the intake manifold. Mine was really gunked up and blocked.

I still need to clean the throttle body so the car decelerates faster. With the car idling in neutral, if I press the throttle to reach 2500 rpms and release it quickly, I can see the RPM needle taking a while to get back to idle. The engine temp was at 3 oclock, so it is not the ECU compensating for a cold engine.

But I have a bigger problem. Today I removed the battery to get my hands under the intake. When I reconnected the battery and started the engine I got a flashing tranny arrow that won't go away. The arrow was not blinking on Friday the last time I drove the car before disconnecting the battery. The car is not drivable like this since the tranny is in limp mode.

Any ideas? I will try removing the battery again to see if the problem disappears. I don't know if this is just a glitch or not, but the CEL has been on for the last 12 months and I have simply ignored it. The tranny arrow never blinked, sport and winter mode worked fine. I don't understand why the arrow is on now.

 

I finished my second PCV cleaning attempt. I think this time it worked. One thing I noticed is even though I had soaked the trap in carb cleaner, there was still a lot of crap in there, and it had dried from the cleaner and had fallen off so there was a pile of it at the bottom of the trap, so this time I took and whacked the heck out of it to loosen the rest of the crap. Also, I managed to get the EGR off, the way I was able to do it was to take the big nut off, then I was trying to get the temp sensor out but it was frozen in there, but luckily the EGR snapped right off while I was trying to get the sensor out. I have a feeling there was carbon in there keeping the valve open. Now after soaking it in carb cleaner, when I suck on the nipple it opens up, and then closes tight. I took it for a short drive, only saw a puff of smoke, but then I really opened up and got anther puff, but that was it, no more smoke coming home, and none while it sat at idle. One other thing I did was to add a couple of o rings to the bottom of the dipstick tube. It wasn't leaking, but I don't know how because all that's in there is this ill fitting rubber band looking thing. I'm going to take it for a longer drive right now, hopefully this thing is finally cured.

 

Just got back from the drive, everything seems ok, no smoke at all the whole time. There is a fuel smell from the engine, but I don't see anything leaking, but I know the injector seals were pretty cracked up so I am sure I could benifit from new seals. I'm just glad there's no more smoke!

 

Great to hear that! I am satisfied with unclogged PCV too.

I am VERY worried about my tranny now in limp mode. My wife does not want to use the car that way so I will give her my daily driver and I get to keep the 850

 

That's the one thing I always worry about with high mileage cars is the tranny going out. Although I have a Mercedes diesel that has at least 350k miles with the original tranny which works great (or as great as a MB tranny can, they are always fussy).

 

The tranny was fine on Friday, and after I reconnected the battery the arrow of death is blinking. I am really pi$$ed off now.

 

At least it doesn't sound like a mechanical problem, must be a bad electrical component (hopefully). No codes? I think I'd try unhooking the battery again, maybe you'll get lucky.

 

I just tried that. I left it disconnected for 7 hours, but the flashing arrow is still there. The car is idling horribly now, but at least thereĀ“s no more smoke. IĀ“ll check it again tomorrow morning.

 

Any chance you bumped the PNP while getting the battery out or something like that? Might not hurt to lift the latch on the big connector to the transmission connector and spray some electric connector cleaner on it while the battery is out. Mine had some crud on it when I took my PNP out. Still waiting on the tool from the dumb dealer that charged my card for it but cannot seem to procure it. [:@] Seems like the battery removal and the flashing arrow would be related, maybe you bumped it out of alignment slightly. I am guessing here but they are close to each other. If I ever get my tool I promised to loan it to Benjamin then I could have him loan it to you. Assuming I ever get it from the dealer. [:'(]

Good luck, any chance of pulling codes?