Shaking Breaks
 

Has anyone experienced the passenger front tire shake when the brake is applied and the car is warm and the out side is 70+ ? I know the caliper is not warped. Breaks are probably 90% remaining I just replaced them.

If your wheel shakes when you put the brakes on you likely have a warped rotor.

I had that issue last year......believe it or not it was the ball joint that was bad, and it only caused the wheel to shake when the brakes were firmly applied.

That should be easy to figure out. Jack the car up, put it on a jack stand, then try to shake the wheel, 3 to 9 then 12 to 6. Usually a loose control arm part will jerk or pull once then level out.

But this only happens when the temperature is warm. It sounds like its rubbing against something.

While braking? You got me on that one.

Usually for a shudder or shake only during braking the likely cause is a warped rotor (not caliper), loose control arm bushing at the frame or loose ball joint. Really rare, but could be a loose wheel bearing too.

The warped rotor is the most likely cause. It can be caused by a sticky caliper that isn't allowing the pad to retract from the rotor enough. The pads should be close, very close to the rotor normally and if you spin it by hand you might hear a slight "rub' but not much at all. If you have trouble turning the wheel by hand than it's likely you have a caliper going out in that it's starting to seize.

If you're not sure and you don't have a dial caliper you can always take the rotor to an O'reilly with a lathe or someplace that turns rotors and have them chuck it up on the lathe and see if it's warped.

I meant caliper. Anyways it only accrues on a warm day. And it's only happened to me three days out of the 6 months I've own the car. But when it does the car literally vibrates and shakes that you feel your teeth chatter.

Has anyone ever heard about after market brakes having this problem ? I looked through the service records that came with the car and the pervious owner seems to have had this issue with non oem volvo pads and rotators.

Well, aftermarket covers a lot of ground. Some aftermarket stuff is cheap and it wears out quickly and may not have the best fit.
Other aftermarket stuff is cross drilled or slotted and made out of the best materials. The big brake kits most guys with upgrades want are from aftermarket sources and hold up well. Any rotor no mater what the quality can be bad new if it's stored improperly.
If you go to a parts store and ask for the least expensive rotor it's what you'll get and it's a shorter service life you'll get out of it.
I've run checker auto parts, Oreilly and Autozone rotors on my cars and peoples cars I've worked on and haven't had any comebacks for warped rotors.

I purchased napa equivalents to oem. I am not sure exactly what brand they were if they were napa or something else I'm not sure. I was reading through the pervious owners service papers and came across the same issue and the volvo mechanic replaced the breaks with volvo oem pads and rotators.

I generally use OEM pads and either OEM or Brembo rotors. They work and I never have problems. Been doing it that way since 1985 after I tried aftermarket pads on my 1st Volvo. I have tried Akeebono (sp?) cermics on one car, but sold it pretty soon after putting them on. I didn't have any complaints about them for the time I had them though. Kept my wheels cleaner that's for sure. OEM pads are known for making your wheels dirty.

I had that when it got warm (over 70). Took off the rotors and turned them on a lathe, one was really warped. Afterwards they were perfect. Now it's getting really hot (over 100) its starting to do it a bit. I think the metal parts of the brakes expand in the heat, and I have a worn caliper thats constantly warping the rotor.

The outside temperature isn't really going to affect the brake system that much. When it's cooler outside it does help them cool down sooner but the brakes can reach over 600 degrees in a race or track car and likely three to four hundred degrees if you come off a freeway ramp and wait till the last minute to bring it to a stop.

If you have a caliper that's dragging the pads against the rotor it's the likely cause of your recurring warping issue.

is it everytime you hit the breaks? cause if its not it could be the shims going out.. thats just my 2 sense..

Have you checked the muffler bearings in you carburator?