Shocks and Struts
 

So I am considering replacing my shocks and struts any advice? Like where to buy and do I need all the bushings etc. I was looking on ipdusa.com and think the Bilstein "touring" looks good. Anyway just fishing for advice or input BEFORE I take my beloved sportwagon apart. Thanks.

l would go with bilstein touring. used them and they were great. Ipdusa, fcpeuro.com, and partsgeek.com is where l get my parts from. partsgeek seem to have the best price offerings. check them out

I just replaced my struts, springs and shocks myself. I used the OE spec Sachs shocks and Pro Parts springs. I am very happy with them. Improved the ride and stance immensely from the 150,000 mile original Boge's on front and Bilstein and IPD HD springs on the rear (I have no clue who thought this suspension set up would be a good idea!).

I got the full kit for the front which includes the struts, spring seats, strut bearings, and new hardware. I got new shocks and bump stops for the rear.

Front -- FCP video on their website is very helpful. Watch before doing the job -- twice!

Volvo Strut Replacement (850 Front Struts, Mounts, Spring Seats & Suspension Parts) FCP Euro - YouTube

Be careful when tightening the cross nut (the star shaped thing that goes on to secure the spring seat to the strut shaft). If you haven't compressed the spring all the way -- which FYI isn't at all easy to do if you're not using an air wrench on your compessor -- you won't get the cross nut on all the way. You'll think you did but you really didn't.

You will learn when you first drive the car and hear an alarming clacking sound coming from all over. That's the bottom of the cross nut and top of the spring seat coming into contact with each other as the strut shaft moves up and down. You will then have to remove the upper strut bolt and cap and push down on the car as hard as you can while you tighten the cross nut all the way with a screw driver and small hammer.

Unplug the ABS sensor wire from the wheel completely and move it out of the way. If you don't the strut assembly will get all tangled up in the ABS sensor wire when you try to take it off.

Remove both ends of the sway bar end link. If you just remove the part bolted into the strut like in the video, you'll have a hard time getting the strut assembly out. It might also make sense to replace them as they aren't expensive and tend to wear.

Rear -- Unbolt BOTH SHOCKS before trying to remove and install the springs. If you don't, one side will be b-tch to yank out of there and the second will practically fall out once you lower the jack on the lower spring seat. Trying to put the second spring in after you've bolted up the shock on the other side will be even worse.

Don't neglect the lower spring retainer. Get new locknuts and make sure they're tight! If the small weld holding the pot metal retainer's bolt breaks and you use a regular bolt and nut to secure it, the nut will quickly back out and fall off, creating a god awful clunking sound as the retainer rattles around inside the spring. You will then have to secure the lower spring retainer with a locknut on the bottom, lock washer on top, and some locktite and Gorilla Glue for good measure to ensure it doesn't come apart again.

Better yet, if your bolt does break off, just buy a new spring retainer from Volvo.

The shock nuts that come with the Sachs shocks at least are worthless. They are "egged" and the shock shaft will spin around as you try to tighten them (and once you commit you have to finish because they won't come off again). I think they're designed to be used with a special tool. I used a regular bolt and locktite and it held fine.

The bump stop assemblies in the rear are a big joke. The rubber portion will probably crumble away, leaving you holding a black plastic mount with a virtually irremovable plastic plug in it. You will have to pound the plug out of there with a hammer and screw driver. If you don't destroy the whole thing, use a bolt and nut to secure the new bump stop to the plastic mount (FCP will sell you the rubber part but not the plastic part).

Beyond those points, the job was pretty straightforward. Hopefully this helps you avoid some of the headaches I experienced!

Another point - The spring compressor halves will tend to slide towards each other as you tighten them. Be sure to be patient and tighten each side evenly and watch closely for slide. If they slide too close to each other the spring will "bow" out, creating a dangerous condition. That'll be particularly true if you use an air wrench. Be careful and take your time!

I bought Bilsteins from Autozone when they had free shipping and a 20% off on line coupon. It was a good price and they have a lifetime warranty.

Bilstein's are a great shock. I've had them on several vehicles. I'd just caution about getting shocks too stiff though. People think a stiff shock will make the car fun to drive but 90% of the time in day-to-day use, it's just jarring.

I don't think that would be a problem with the Bilstein Tourings though. The yellows on the back of mine were ultra stiff (probably not helped by the worn shocks and springs up front).

One more thing...
 

Awesome folks thanks. I think I'm all set. Last thing. Is there a way to tell if i need strut bearings before I pull the strut? I feel like I will pull one and feel it before I order all the parts just to be sure. but any advice on that one or what parts to definately replace while im in there would be good info. I am currently planning on just doing the struts shocks and probably strut bearings and upper spring seats. I would hate to pull it all apart and find out I need other pieces. Thanks again!

No, you won't be able to tell until you pull the strut and spin the bearing. If the bearing is original, it will probably make sense to replace it. It isn't horribly expensive, and since you're saving the money on labor why not?