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05 Volvo s40 t5 timing info

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Old 06-08-2017, 05:30 PM
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Default 05 Volvo s40 t5 timing info

Okay Guys so I got a 05 Volvo s40 t5 turbocharged I bought it super cheap $300 from a close friend they owned it since 12,000miles bought it and always took it to the dealer when the engine light came on everything was going fine and at 180,000 miles the timing belt went I bought the car it had no compression all 20 valves were smashed so I pulled it down and sent the cylinder head out for machining got everything back and for some reason the timing on the cams wouldn't line up correctly turns out someone at the dealer must have pulled the cam sprockets and reinstalled them with them timing way out must have had the cams locked when they moved the cam sprockets or else how would it even run so I put the cam locks in and loosened up the cam sprockets and lined them up with the plastic timing cover this was the best thing I could think to do so the next timing belt won't be that big of a problem anyways it's all back together and running now but it's throwing the crank sensor code replaced it and it's still on so I think the timing might be a tooth off seems to run fine and smooth it definitely hauls a$$ but the check engine light will not go off I've reset it a few times and it comes right back on as soon as you turn the engine off and restart light comes back on so here's what I have done so far cylinder head resurfaced valves repaired, new spark plugs, new head gasket, head bolts, timing belt, new timing tensioner and idler new crank shaft sensor previous owner said the cam fazers were just replaced prior to the timing belt failing I believe it's a timing problem when I installed the belt I didn't use the crankshaft lock tool but I did lock the cams in if anyone had a good wright up on how to time these please post it asap I took the car to the only Volvo mechanic in my area and he said it will be too much work to fix I think he was a little scared of the timing belt
 
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:49 PM
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I'm betting it's a matter of lining everything back up to factory spec. It sucks having to take it all back apart but only a few degrees will make the difference. There just isn't any room for error.

And it's good to know the belt lasts for 180k miles. Recommended change interval is 140k (edit: 120k, sorry) for the T5 though.

Edited for stupidity. Thanks EST6 for the correction
 

Last edited by Hudini; 06-10-2017 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:44 PM
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Try again locking the cams and pinning the crank.

For future internet searchers, the timing belt interval is 120k, not 140k.

And making a huge run on sentence makes it very difficult to read.
 
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Old 06-09-2017, 01:19 AM
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Yeah sorry for poor grammar. I'll repeat my original question if the cams and sprockets are separated how should I go about setting
the timing? As of right now the way I have my cam sprockets adjusted the two dots are at 12 o'clock #1 cylinder on the compression stroke (both intake and exhaust valves closed and locked in the cam lock tool). From what I understand about this engine when it is at tdc the intake and exhaust cam timing both dots need to be centered in the plastic timing cover the cut grove goes right in between the dots on the cam right in the center? One thing I will note I did not lock the crank when I set the timing I was not to sure how to lock it I read on another form there was something about pulling the starter to gain access and rotating the engine 90 degrees then back to tdc but I didn't think that was for the 2.5 liter turbocharged engine. So if anyone has some more info on locking the crank that might also be helpful this was my second timing belt replacement ever could have went worse luckly my valves are safe for now.
 
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:00 AM
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Yes, you need to pin the crank. What did you use to lock the cams? The tool kit comes with a pin for the crank.
 
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Old 06-09-2017, 08:54 AM
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Keep in mind that with 180k that plastic timing cover probably wont line up exactly anymore so that crank pin is crucial. Iv'e read somewhere that you can use something else as a substitute crank lock pin that everyone probably has laying around I just can't remember what it is.
 
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