Hey guys. Quick question. I know just about as little as you can know about cars and Ive ran into a possible issue. So.. Sometimes when I'm stopped at a light or whatever and I press the gas to go it takes maybe a second or 2 to actually move. The engine revs up and the rpm's jump but no movement. Is this just the turbo lag? It doesn't happen all the time, just kind of an inconvenience. Any feedback will be appreciated!

Thank you!

 

Start by checking your tranny fluid level.

 

Thank you for the reply! Sorry it took me so long to respond. Tranny fluid level looks good it's above the "add" line. It is quite black tho, shouldn't tranny fluid be red when clean? Going to get the oil changed today and pick up some tranny fluid. What would be a good type of fluid to use? I saw JWS 3309 on another thread. Is that ok for a 2000 s40 with 5 speed?

 

Jws3309 is what you will need. If you have a toyot dealership nearby Toyota IV will do the trick too (it meets jws3309 spec).

If you are doing it yourself, be sure to let the trans fluid warm up to the required 80° before checking the fluid level . This requires about 20 to 30 minutes of highway driving

 

You can get the Toyota type iv on amazon prime fairly reasonably.

 

I just read that the 2000's were 4 speed auto's and need to use atf dexron iii and mercon.

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2000/2000_SV40/00sv40_09.htm

Jws3309, Toyota type iv or this dexron 3?

 

Going to get the tranny fluid changed as well as the oil changed tomorrow. Was having some big issues with the car not accelerating this morning. It was really tough to get it up to 35 this morning around 8 (maybe 60 degrees) it was really jerky. Even the steering was tougher than normal. I only drove maybe a half mile before turning around and going back home. Reverse barely worked and was very jerky. But in the afternoon around 6 (probably 90ish) car drove fine, got up to 35 around the block and had no issues. Reverse worked fine too for about 20 feet then kinda clunked and that's where I stopped. Checked tranny fluid level looks good. Kind of a reddish hint. Going to get fluids changed tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Going to let the car warm up for a while before driving to the shop

 

Dexron III was the fluid originally spec'ed for your four speed tranny but it's hard to find now.

Volvo allows JWS3309 as an alternate fluid for your tranny and your tranny may even perform better with it. Toyota T-IV and JWS3309 are the same thing. Identical.

Based on your description of what your car is doing your tranny may be too far gone to be helped by a fluid change. Doesn't hurt to try though.

 

What is your plan for the method of fluid change? If you are doing a dump and fill (which everyone seems to recommend to avoid too sudden a change for an older transmission) you will want to do it at least 3x to get good results. Ideally 4x to get nice bright red fluid in there. About 3.4l should do the trick for each round. This is because a dump and fill only gets roughly half of the fluid out each time. Best to go for a good long drive between each.

 

Yes, going with the dump and fill, Pierre! And I was reeeeeeally hoping NOT to hear that. Going to take it to the shop first thing Monday morning if the fluid swap doesn't seem to help.

 

Getting the tranny fluid changed now. Drove car to shop and had no issues but I also let it warm up for 30+ minutes. Fingers crossed

 

Good luck!

 

After getting the tranny fluid drained and filled, I have had 0 issues with not accelerating or clunking into gear. But it has been hot (around 95 right now). Went to get the oil changed and I guess one of the previous owners had the oil pan welded shut so I have to get a new one! Anyone have a estimate? I'm assuming a few hundred as the oil pan itself is about $125 online.

 

Why do you need to replace the oil pan? Was the plug welded shut? You may want to consider just tapping a new drain plug hole instead just to see if that works. No harm in trying.

 

Yeah the plug was welded shut for some reason. I will try tapping into the current pan and creating a new plug, thank you for the idea! No harm in trying! Any idea why it might've been welded shut or was it more than likely just because the previous owner maybe couldn't get it to shut?

 

What a dumb thing to have done. Someone probably stripped the sump plug threading and decided to seal it up instead of replacing the pan. Pain in the *** for you now. The challenge with tapping a new plug is that oat of the pan material is very thing so the best thing to to may be to grind the head of the old plug off and re-tap right down the middle of the old plug with a larger dia than the old one...I've never attempted this. Maybe someone will chime in who has.

 

How long has it been welded?!

 

My buddy works at a garage so I'll run that idea by him Pierre and see what he thinks. I may end up just going to the junkyard and seeing if I can find one in decent shape. Appreciate the feedback, thanks immensely!

And I have no idea, teekay. Its over by 2,000 miles according to the old sticker les schwab put on the top left of the windshield. So maybe 5k-6k miles ago? Doesn't make much sense to weld it shut....

 

You will still need to change the oil again after a good long drive. This is because an oil dump does not drain the torque converter and the new oil has mixed with the old black stuff that was in the converter.

 

Yep I would say two more dump and fills. Ideally three.