Well i bought a 2002 volvo s/40 automatic that has been to every mechanic in this little town in chiapas mexico. The owner was taking it to a dismantler and I decided to take it off his hands for next to nothing. This thing went through the wringer and after a mechanic stealing the turbo and catalitic converter the auto was basiclly ready for the junk yard. So I found out after a few days of trying to crank it over that the original key was lost and that the keż that the car has was a remake with no chip! Ok so now i got the immobilizer to go off. The ignition coil harness was toast and the coils are shot. Ive got several issues that i hope someone can give me some insight on. First i would like to know if I can chage the coils for individuals ( 1 per cylinder). I read somewhere that the coils originally fire twice per combustion cycle , once for the compressed gases at top of piston cycle to creat the explosion required as in any gas powered engine, and the second is when the same cylinder is is the process of discharging the spent or burnt gases (exhaust cycle). Is this true, and has any one ever tried what I'm talking about? Second why do i only get one pulse from injectors when im cranking. I saw a post but no responses or continued posts about only getting one pulse. Any help to revive this "paper weight" would greatly be appreciated. Ive got questions about the turbo replacement but I'd really like to see this thing spit fire from the exhaust manifold first.

 

Oh i would like to know if this thing will at least act like it wants ti start without the turbo? Yea i know, the oil and water run through the turbo. I want to just hear it sputter before i spend big bucks on a new turbo and catalitic convertor. Where do i begin or should i call tow truck to conplete its trip to the junkyard.

 

well since you didn't go the route of getting a new key programmed by a dealer, you need to make sure your removing the immobilizer didn't permanently break the ECU's input for allowing the car to start. Have you tested to see if you are getting any signal to the coils from the ECU?

 

Hey there, thank you for replying. heres what i have done thus far; did a compression check and i got 120 across all cylinders.Removed the injectors and ran them with injector cleaner with a bench pulser with 40 psi and all had good spray patern with equal flow. replaced coil harness wires and connectors, all soldered and heat shrunk with wire loom. checked cam and crank sensors and i get signal using a cheap scope. When i tried to crank it over all i got was one pulse for each injector. tried checking signal for coils and got nothing, tried another coil from a Nissan Platina which has individual coils, and i did get spark, Well thats as far as Ive gotten. before the chip for the immobilizer, the light on the dash would not go out, now it does. I read somewhere that if the ecm does not detect combustion that it will not continue to pulse. Do you know if this is true and is there a way to wire in individual coils like later models? I have got a ton of questions and any help to revive this thing would greatly be appreciated.

 

compression on a turbo engine should be 150 PSI+ so either your timing is one notch off or you have a cold or tired engine. Did you try a wet compression test? your car has two coils with a jumper wire to the second plug - why not use that to determine if you are getting spark? It doesn't matter which plug since you are trying to see if the ECU/immobilizer is sending a signal.

 

Hey sorry it took so long to reply. Yea the engine was cold, the compression check was done at the time off buying the car. Took it to the shop and found a hug hole in the oil pan and filter. So the engine didn't have oil in it either with the 120 psi. When I do a compression test, I only let it cycle three times. I now others recommend for several seconds. I'm ok with that reading after realizing it had no oil. So when I replaced the oil pan I took a look a the rod bearings and the were not worn and no sign of over heating of the surroundings. I chose not to remove the main bearings mount. Also cleaned up the pcv box and changed the hose clamps, and resealed intake to the head. Got it all back together and tried to start her up and nothing when she cranks. Did a resistance check on the could and both were open. Took a coil for a Nissan platina which is a coil on plug type ignition two wire and it produced spark on both harness plugs. When I tested the injectors though, all I got was a single pulse for each injector.

I've got two questions, first is the a way to wire in a coil on plug type system. Or is there any performance coil set-up other than having to go factory.
Second is why only one pulse for the injectors?
Oh, I've got one more. How do you test the crank and cam sensors, and the required voltage from ecm?
Hi

 

I suppose you could wire in a coil on plug design after all the coil packs just require a voltage source and a trigger circuit from the ECU but why bother? they probably wouldn't have a place to mount securely and would not have room to put the cover back on. There's nothing wrong with the two plug per coil design - keep in mind before direct ignition a V8 car would have one coil for 8 cylinders. If you have trouble getting spark, the coils are typically not at fault - more common is a wire harness/connector/plug wire or the ECU is not signaling due to a different fault like a crank sensor. That's where check engine codes help. Generally cam sensors are there to measure the engine timing but a failed sensor doesn't cause a no start on most cars (I suppose on some it may). a wonky cam sensor may throw off timing and make the car run poorly. The crank sensor is more likely to cause a no start. most tests are resistance based so a bad sensor would either open or short. the other way to test is you'd have to apply voltage to the sensor and measure the output then wave something by the sensor to simulate the flywheel (check for youtube vids... point here is its not easy without the right tools. A lot easier to by a replacement if the resistance is off