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-   -   2006 S40 2.4i Advice (https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s40-11/2006-s40-2-4i-advice-80395/)

Patrick_Henry 09-30-2014 09:10 AM

2006 S40 2.4i Advice
 
Hello all, new to the forum! I have an opportunity to purchase this vehicle from a family member for 3K. The problem is that I don't know a thing about them. I have two VW diesels a Dodge truck and the black sheep of the family, a 95 Ford Windstar that I maintain. So I'm just looking for cost of ownership, common problems with them. I've always heard that parts are expensive for them. I don't mind that too bad if you're not having to replace them all the time.

Some things I've noticed since we've had it for a couple of days. The check engine light is on. The wife brought it to Auto Zone and had them plug in on it. Some sort of emissions code they said. I have a scanner, but it won't link up with this vehicle. They said it was probably the gas cap, so that was replaced. The right rear window doesn't roll down. The 2 power points don't work so you plug a cell phone charger or anything else into them.

There's also only one key/remote for it. That's another concern for me is what it costs to have one of those replaced. Thanks in advance for any and all advice. If I decide to buy this thing, I need to know what I'm going to be dealing with as far as maintenance and repair goes since I'm pretty sure I won't be able to afford to pay someone else to work on it. I am enclosing some pictures of it as well.

Volvo S40 Photos by uzzo2 | Photobucket

Hudini 09-30-2014 01:38 PM

Welcome to the forum!

Unfortunately you need the dealer to program a new ignition key. You can purchase the key online for much cheaper than the local dealer but it must be a new one with the proper codes included in the package. The dealer has to program it to the car. Do not buy the used ones off ebay. They will not work and cannot be programmed to your car because the proper codes are not included with the key.

I have a cheapy Harbor Freight scanner and it reads fine. I think it requires a CAN BUS compliant code reader. First I've heard of a code reader not working though. On my 2001 I have to hold tension on the cable while it's plugged in to keep a steady connection. Maybe you aren't holding your tongue just right? :)

Check all the fuses too. My 2005 had a strange interior lighting issue when a fuse NOT labeled for interior lighting was blown. Took me forever to find it. I ended up pulling every single fuse.

Lots of good places online for parts. Most all cheaper than the dealer. If you are a hard core DIYer look at the DiCE tool and the VIDA software. I have both and it helps with many Volvo specific issues.

Patrick_Henry 09-30-2014 02:16 PM

Thanks for that info Hudini. One thing I also forgot to mention was that the A/C is intermittent. It'll work for a little while and then quit and won't come back on until the car cools off. The blower motor continues to run, but the compressor doesn't. The owner says she had it diagnosed as a relay. Which would make sense. If it was a pressure switch taking it out. It should come back on once the pressure equalizes, no?

Patrick_Henry 10-01-2014 06:56 AM

Well I figured out what was wrong with the A/C. It's the clutch on the compressor won't stay pulled in. Major bummer!

Hudini 10-01-2014 08:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The A/C clutch needs to be "de-shimmed". It's super easy and costs ZERO. On my 2005 I did not even loosen the belt. Basically you remove the outer face of the clutch, remove a shim, replace the clutch face. By removing one of 3 shims you bring the clutch halves closer together and it stops the hot/cold cycling.

This thread shows pics with the compressor removed. If your 2006 is like my 2005 then simply remove the front wheel and plastic wheel liner to expose the compressor.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...shimming-6665/

Attachment 15970

Patrick_Henry 10-02-2014 01:12 PM


Originally Posted by Hudini (Post 397220)
The A/C clutch needs to be "de-shimmed". It's super easy and costs ZERO. On my 2005 I did not even loosen the belt. Basically you remove the outer face of the clutch, remove a shim, replace the clutch face. By removing one of 3 shims you bring the clutch halves closer together and it stops the hot/cold cycling.

This thread shows pics with the compressor removed. If your 2006 is like my 2005 then simply remove the front wheel and plastic wheel liner to expose the compressor.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...shimming-6665/

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps0306dd31.jpg

I actually thought about that yesterday. I had to do that on my Dodge truck when I bought it. Seems to be working fine now. I drove it to town (probably 12 miles one way), it worked all the way there and back. It hasn't worked that long yet since I started driving it. Thank you so much for the advice my friend. Now the million dollar question. I haven't actually bought it yet. You think it's worth $3K?

Hudini 10-03-2014 04:20 AM

Me? I'd skip it but not for the problems you described. The 2005-6 doesn't have any aux radio input. The center waterfall display is proprietary Volvo with no aftermarket support for another radio or CD player. It's not turbo and not AWD either. (I like turbos.)

Patrick_Henry 10-03-2014 10:14 AM


Originally Posted by Hudini (Post 397313)
Me? I'd skip it but not for the problems you described. The 2005-6 doesn't have any aux radio input. The center waterfall display is proprietary Volvo with no aftermarket support for another radio or CD player. It's not turbo and not AWD either. (I like turbos.)

I was wondering about that myself. We have Sirius receivers in the vehicles we drive now. If you don't have a aux input, you have to plug it in where the antenna wire goes in on most radios. I don't know that it'll be a deal breaker for me. But it's definitely something I'll have to consider. Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it.

mf70 10-07-2014 03:00 PM

2006 V50 owner (6 months) here:

No AUX input is correct: solution is a bluetooth dongle from Crutchfield's feeding an FM modulator wired into the antenna line in the right rear.

A Big concern at this point is a factory recall of the PCV system. If the vent lines from the oil filter are corrugated plastic, it hasn't been upgraded. Cost is $0.00 from dealer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Second key is ~ $80.00 aftermarket plus dealer programming ~ $160.
You'll also want a second blade key @ $24.00 or so. If the remote ever fails, you'll bless buying the second key. Have the dealer delete the lost key from the car's database.

https://www.myswedishparts.com/partl...tegoryID=96057

If the car has been kept outdoors, your sunroof drains may be clogged. Symptom is wet carpets.

If it has been getting regular synthetic oil changes, it's a nice solid car.


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