I was sold the car which sat nicely protected in a pole barn in Prescott AZ. HOWEVER, Rats have nearly chewed through the main engine harness that goes thru the Driver-side firewall. Car runs well, just throws wierd codes. I have a part number of: 30737019.

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I've gotvtwo things sort oglf going against me. I'm mildly dyslexic my whole life and was shot during the gulf War thru my neck partially slowing down thought parrerns. I have to have people or software review everything I write before I send it to make sure nothing. Offensive was written by accident, not that I have tourette's syndrome. But sometimes things are spelled wrong or backwards. Or whatever and someone gets offended. I had made a post asking if anyone was parting out a 2005 favor S40 Eye model. I gotta response that my thread had been removed. Because it was duplicated, I don't know if that means they got p***** at me and removed both threads or just the one that was duplicated. . in either scenario, it wasn't done on purpose. I'm very new, the board is you can see. And if that was done, it was Johnny Shirley by accident. Not getting back to the original question. I am in desperate need of a part for my 2005 Volvo S40 i. My sister's life was recently taken. And as soon as they fly her back down here to Arizona from Seattle. Were going to have services and I would like to have this part installed before she arrives. So that all the fa he's flying INR able to utilize his vehicle. Still, is there a way we could put that part back up? Or is there a way that you can help me? ? I am in Dire Straits here. I'm working in the clocks that is taking ever faster depart I need is the main engine wiring harness loom which is part number 30733019. Again 2005 volvo s5.

 

Replacing that entire harness would be an "interesting job"... ;-)

If at all possible, it may be much easier (and less expensive, based on the price of ordering a new engine bay harness) to just cut and replace the bad sections of the harness. Some of the cables (where the rodents didn't chew deeply into the copper conductors) could probably be fixed by sliding new insulation over the bad section and taping it (securely).

Other places might require splicing, which is best done using solder and heat shrink tubing - leading to a "good as factory" repair.

Where there is access to the damaged portion of the harness, none of that would be difficult. Where it's really hard to get to, you might have to get creative (the S40 engine compartment isn't really TOO tightly packed if you don't have turbos and AWD).

And of course, you might be able to hack some cable sections out of a boneyard donor car and splice them in. Just look for the easiest approach that will result in restoring the cable harness connection to everywhere it should go. Spending the kind of money and time to swap in a complete new harness sounds excessive for a nearly 20 year old vehicle that's probably not got a whole lot of resale value anyway (people are scared of used Volvos because of the anticipated cost of maintenance).

 

First i want to tell you how appreciative I I'm for your lengthy and descriptive reply. I think ur the only one so don't have access to a lift, that's the challenging part. That means either ramps (meh) or a floor jack and jackstands. lol I waa daydreaming yesterday that I wish in my 2nd stall of garage I could build an 18" ramp on both sides so you'd drive up onto this ramp on each side that's 12-18" off the ground. The ramp sides would be like roof trusses so super strong, and 1¼ decking and a 2x4 nailed flat as a stop. Drive in, gradual ramp up, stop when you feel that pirelli hit the 2x4. Then you can get under on a creeper an doozie do whatever you need to do.

But i digress. The car was given to me free si I don't mind spending the value of the car on repairs - if that makes sense. You think itd be a hard job? I mean unless there's a bit of slack in each wire to crimp them, then each one without a but of extra wire is gonna need a jumper. If you imagine a tight wire from A to B being cut, you can't just twist em back. I think a a few feet of 12 & 14ga wire maybe a bit of that thicker red stuff, lots of crimps and those waterproofing sleeves you mentioned, but still...i dont have access to a lift! Argh!!!

The car runs SO wellqda now that I changed the plugs and the caps/coils. BUT, in the 5th plug (closest to passenger side) the plug well has over an inch of oil in it that i had to mop up outta there. I did the rest of plugs job, only a bit of oil in the 4th plug well, hardly any in the 3rd well and then that was it. I got and done and it is a whole new 18y/o car, smooth idle, acceleration was better as was top speed.
I talk too much. I'm sorry lol
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Getting the car up in the air for service can be one of the most challenging parts of the effort. I do like the idea of (sturdy) long ramps, but with modern cars, it usually requires a VERY shallow slope to clear the nose and other bodywork. I just use a (large, low-profile) floor jack and four (or two, depending) jackstands.

Really, until you get the car up and the plastic splash panels off, you're not going to have a good idea about what's involved (mainly, access to the damaged areas).

I'd stay away from crimp-on splices. Those are notorious for failing after X days, weeks, months or years. Much (!) better to twist and solder (and cover with heat shrink tubing). And again, if the copper inside is OK, just covering the bare parts with a wad of quality black tape will probably work as well (won't look good, but I'm betting this car isn't gonna be in the show car circuit any time soon).

If you DO find a spot that's really not repairable, that's when a chopped and spliced chunk of wiring from a donor (junkyard) car may be the way to go. If you do have to splice the existing harness, just add enough to make it convenient, and tie it up if it's long enough to get into trouble.