I have just had my 2002 Volvo s40 aligned. It was very much out of alignment.

They told me that I had a frozen camber on my rear right tire. They also warned against replacing the camber because of the age of the car. I am not sure what they mean.

All they said was it could open up a can of worms if I replaced the camber.

I really cannot continue driving with a frozen camber, so what is involved with replacing the camber.

Should I be worried?

Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Respectfully,

Newort_j

 

I'd be worried about the shop if they told you "not to replace your camber" as if its a suspension part. Camber refers to the angle of the tire to the ground. 0 degrees means the tire is perfectly perpendicular to the ground. Many models of cars don't have adjustable camber in the rear - but if they do, there'd be a bolt set up similar to a tie rod end. With that said, the thing to pay attention to is the read out of the alignment machine. Gen1 s40s are very finicky on toe in - and it can take an experience hand to know where to target within the factor specs. Ask the shop for the print out for the before and after - and then make sure they properly ID'd your car as a 2002 (Gen1 ) versus a 2004+ (gen 2s may have an adjustable upper control arm...).

If your camber was measured out of spec in the rear - and you are running stock springs (vs lowering springs which can impact suspension geometry) you may need to have it checked for worn bushings or even bent parts. As I recall, the Gen 1 has a pretty stout upper control arm which has perpendicular bolts and bushings so the worst case would be to replace those bushings.

My suggestion is to have a four point alignment with the toe in set to tight factor specs and see how it drives. On my 2000 S40, I pay extra for a dealer alignment as they get it right every time. If it doesn't drive right, inspect for possibly a broken spring (common issue) and perhaps an incorrect install of a replacement or any signs of worn bushings.

 

Megan racing sells/sold adjustable upper control arms that can heavily tweak the rear camber for you. I have them on mine. I know if have a few other seized bolts in the rear suspension (the smaller toe bolts and also the larger bolt that is on the huge bushings on the front of the trailing arms)

 

The challenge with seized camber bolts is that they are usually seized right into the control arm so you are stuck replacing the control arm as well. But wait, the pain doesn't end there...


To get the control arm out you have to undo 2 more bolts at the other end of the arm. The first connects to the hub assy and the second connects to the shock. Both of those are problematic. Often the bolt that connects to the shock is seized in the shock so not only do you have to replace the bolt and control arm, but if you are stuck grinding the bolt out of the shock, chances are very high that you won't be able to get the rest of the bolt out of the shock itself so...wait for it...you need to buy a new shock too. But wait...


Now you'll be thinking, jesus, that shock looks like hell, might as well replace the other one while I'm at it and oh crap, the mount hardware looks to be in terrible shape. I think you get the picture. If you are planning on keeping the vehicle, I would not hesitate to do this IF the rear alignment is in fact out but as previously mentioned if you are strictly sticking with factory you may find that it's fine the way it is.

 

I found the website for Megan racing, but I am not sure what to ask for. Can someone give me a parts number of detailed product name? Remember this is for a frozen camber on the right rear tire of a 2002 Volvo s40.


Respectfully,


Newport_j

 

These are the arms I have. Can't see the smaller toe adjustment ones anywhere.

MEGAN 2pc Rear Camber Control Arm for Evolution Evo I II III CE9A Mirage 93-01 | eBay



Left side is the upper camber adjustment arms, right is the more forward/lower toe arms.

 

Oooooh, those are pretty. Let me get this straight, if your camber bolt on the lower control arm is frozen you can leave it well alone and install one of these instead to tweak the camber and toe? If so that is brilliant!

 

Well toe adjustment is just sorta not happening. This is mostly camber. The rear lower arm will still pivot on the same spot, you're pulling/pushing the top in or out.

The super small arms further up (the right box in my picture) are really where the toe adjustment should come from, but I would bet good money the bushing sleeve is seized to the bolt. I know mine are and haven't been adjusted in 5 years at least. Been waiting to get a airsaw to chop out the bolts.