Compression problem? Need help.
This is where I am confused. I made the mistake of taking it to the Volvo dealership a few months ago, I was told 2500 to remove my motor have it sent away for testing 2500 to have it reinstalled and this will not included what ever the "problem is" their ****ing crazy.
So, I start with the basics.
New stuff;
Coils (2) One was cracked I though Ah HA! That must be it… Nope.
Wires (2) They were discolored Ah Ha! This might help… Nope.
Plugs (4) NGK. I'm assuming factory plugs. New plugs would help! Nope.
Fuel Filter, no change.
Fuel injectors maybe? Switched 1-2 with 3-4. No change in symptoms.
Saw the video posted earlier in this feed. Thought maybe the timing (Volvo preformed a timing several months ago) Timing would not effect compression. (I do not think)
Pulled those numbers, and thought the same thing it should not be running.
I checked;
Oil to see if there was traces or coolant. Negative.
Coolant to see if there was oil. Negative.
Does not over heat.
No smoke, unless really faint.
Doesn't burn oil, it does leak a little it needs cam seals.
I have been thinking maybe the valves? Does not make any noise though...
I'm stumped and unfortunately got a loan on the car because I wanted some nice and reliable… Oh boy. Fortunately the warranty I purchased will cover the head removal, gasket, and reinstall. Which is awesome. But, finding a place that works on Volvos, is honest, and works with a warranty company is another hassle…
So, I start with the basics.
New stuff;
Coils (2) One was cracked I though Ah HA! That must be it… Nope.
Wires (2) They were discolored Ah Ha! This might help… Nope.
Plugs (4) NGK. I'm assuming factory plugs. New plugs would help! Nope.
Fuel Filter, no change.
Fuel injectors maybe? Switched 1-2 with 3-4. No change in symptoms.
Saw the video posted earlier in this feed. Thought maybe the timing (Volvo preformed a timing several months ago) Timing would not effect compression. (I do not think)
Pulled those numbers, and thought the same thing it should not be running.
I checked;
Oil to see if there was traces or coolant. Negative.
Coolant to see if there was oil. Negative.
Does not over heat.
No smoke, unless really faint.
Doesn't burn oil, it does leak a little it needs cam seals.
I have been thinking maybe the valves? Does not make any noise though...
I'm stumped and unfortunately got a loan on the car because I wanted some nice and reliable… Oh boy. Fortunately the warranty I purchased will cover the head removal, gasket, and reinstall. Which is awesome. But, finding a place that works on Volvos, is honest, and works with a warranty company is another hassle…
Then why are you even doing a compression test? If it's under warranty, let THEM take care of it. If they even think you have been messing with it first, they might void the warranty.
If I went through the dealership I would need to pay 5,000, FIVE THOUSAND dollars for them to tell me what I need. That is out of my pocket. And also is ridiculous! After the 2500 taking it out, and 2500 putting it back together. Say it's the head gasket, then the company (Route 66) will cover that portion. The 5,000 dollar charge as I started is for a diagnosis. The company is run like ****, company (Volvo of SLC) needs an overhaul. I went back and forth for over a week arguing with them not to take my vehicle apart, their some shady people running that place… I am not sure why they would not just preform the tests in house… They might of got used to taking advantage of people. (I'm assuming) I'm not falling for that.
So, that is why I took it on myself. It still runs, I would rather have it corrected instead of it becoming a more serious problem later on…
Make a little more sense?
Wow, that dealership sure is ****ty. Handling misfires is pretty simple. Replace plugs if questionable and verify spark. Check compression and cylinder leakage next and go from there. The results of those will give a good indication of where the problem is. No need to send the engine out for diagnosis or a rebuild. You may have misunderstood them, as I would bet they were trying to send it to be rebuilt. Diagnosis is easy to handle in house. Rebuilds would be cheaper to send out. But at that point, a used engine would be a better idea. If it's just some burnt valves, the head can be removed and rebuilt.
Also, $2500 in labor to remove the engine is way out of line. A whole swap pays like 12 hours I think. So even at a labor rate of $150 an hour (which would be more than it likely is in your area), It would run $1800 in labor to replace them engine.
Also, $2500 in labor to remove the engine is way out of line. A whole swap pays like 12 hours I think. So even at a labor rate of $150 an hour (which would be more than it likely is in your area), It would run $1800 in labor to replace them engine.
Wow, that dealership sure is ****ty. Handling misfires is pretty simple. Replace plugs if questionable and verify spark. Check compression and cylinder leakage next and go from there. The results of those will give a good indication of where the problem is. No need to send the engine out for diagnosis or a rebuild. You may have misunderstood them, as I would bet they were trying to send it to be rebuilt. Diagnosis is easy to handle in house. Rebuilds would be cheaper to send out. But at that point, a used engine would be a better idea. If it's just some burnt valves, the head can be removed and rebuilt.
Also, $2500 in labor to remove the engine is way out of line. A whole swap pays like 12 hours I think. So even at a labor rate of $150 an hour (which would be more than it likely is in your area), It would run $1800 in labor to replace them engine.
Also, $2500 in labor to remove the engine is way out of line. A whole swap pays like 12 hours I think. So even at a labor rate of $150 an hour (which would be more than it likely is in your area), It would run $1800 in labor to replace them engine.
I understood the lady very clear. My first remark was I did not even pay that much for the car and that is a ridiculous amount to diagnose my car, they had changed my timing belt and an idle pulley for around 700 dollars. I asked if it had included the water pump and coolant flush for that amount. She replied that is our normal timing belt service, and I needed cam seals which they would need to take everything off again to replace. Instead of calling me while it was taken apart. Then went on to tell me one cylinder had low compression and I can not get my car "guaranteed", because the motor needed to be sent off to a "specialist" because they could not diagnose my problem in house. Sarcastically I told her to just install a new motor (Because this 5,000 diagnoses came coming up again) she quoted me about 7000+ for that which did not include shop materials.
So, I got fed up with all this **** over a week of doing this over the phone. I showed up and wasted half my day getting my car released because they told my warranty company I MUST send the motor off to have it properly diagnosed. To add to all this I hear the employees talking about me in not so nice words, which pissed me off even more! When I did finally get out of there and contact the managers one apologized on their behalf and that was it. Horrible company...
Long story short, I found this website and am going to do all I can do fix it. haha. I will probably need to take my car back into a shop so when I know exactly what I need I will tell them, no more, no less, this is all I want. No funny ****!... lol
I am a dealer tech and I often take offense when people on here talk about the dealership as though we are all bad people just trying to screw everyone over. But when I hear stories like this, it ticks me off just as much. That kind of **** would never happen at the dealer I work for and I'm sorry your dealer is so crappy. They shouldn't be allowed to operate like that. Complaining to VCC might get your some help, but there's no way to guarantee that. At the very least, I would hope it would alert VCNA to the crappy procedures of this dealership.
I am a dealer tech and I often take offense when people on here talk about the dealership as though we are all bad people just trying to screw everyone over. But when I hear stories like this, it ticks me off just as much. That kind of **** would never happen at the dealer I work for and I'm sorry your dealer is so crappy. They shouldn't be allowed to operate like that. Complaining to VCC might get your some help, but there's no way to guarantee that. At the very least, I would hope it would alert VCNA to the crappy procedures of this dealership.
I intend to go to a shop, I do not believe every place is bad. Just Volvo of SLC.
I agree, they could use an overhaul. I enjoy my car very much and almost considered selling it and never purchasing another one because of this experience. It has been sometime and I doubt anything has changed there. A little off topic lol
SO… When I figure out this issue, I will report back to hopefully help future Volvo owners the head ache!
We seem to be off topic about the poor service of the dealer and I have had similar issues when I lived in Little Rock AR. The dealer there was the only one within 150 miles (only one in the state) and the closest indi shop was 40 miles in the country (no mans land). So they thought they had everyone by the bal**.
I damaged my fuel sending unit once and over $900 later than added gas to the car, cut my sending unit pick up hose and cut my sending unit wires 4 inches away from the plug connector. I got the car back and the next day had more issues. Same "running out of gas early" issue, not coupled with a bad fuel gauge. Had a little time on my hands so I dove in myself. Found the cut wires and bent fuel sending unit. Asked them about the fuel gauge and they wanted to sell me a new fuel sending unit and charge me to install it. When I asked about the cut wires they claimed that some "other shop" did that. No other shop ever had the car. So I fixed it myself and sent them a bill for my last trip there (just over $900) which they promptly paid.
A couple of years later I had another issue that I could not figure out. When I took the car there for diagnosis they kindly gave me long list of things that the now high mileage car needed, and proceeded to introduce me to a salesman that could sell me a new car instead of putting a lot of money into this old one. I looked at the list and over 1/2 of the stuff they had on the list was things that had been replaced within the past 2 weeks with new parts. I thought "what crooks", didn't even take the time to open the air filter box and see that there was a brand new 1 week old Bosch air filter in there. I laid into them like I owned the place and let them know if they ever sent me any junk mail I would consider it harassment and contact an attorney. Since then I have done a lot of work myself unless I didn't have time or tools.
Sad that they have such poor service at some dealers. As EST6 said, they can remove and install the head or motor for the cost they quoted you for just the removal.
I damaged my fuel sending unit once and over $900 later than added gas to the car, cut my sending unit pick up hose and cut my sending unit wires 4 inches away from the plug connector. I got the car back and the next day had more issues. Same "running out of gas early" issue, not coupled with a bad fuel gauge. Had a little time on my hands so I dove in myself. Found the cut wires and bent fuel sending unit. Asked them about the fuel gauge and they wanted to sell me a new fuel sending unit and charge me to install it. When I asked about the cut wires they claimed that some "other shop" did that. No other shop ever had the car. So I fixed it myself and sent them a bill for my last trip there (just over $900) which they promptly paid.
A couple of years later I had another issue that I could not figure out. When I took the car there for diagnosis they kindly gave me long list of things that the now high mileage car needed, and proceeded to introduce me to a salesman that could sell me a new car instead of putting a lot of money into this old one. I looked at the list and over 1/2 of the stuff they had on the list was things that had been replaced within the past 2 weeks with new parts. I thought "what crooks", didn't even take the time to open the air filter box and see that there was a brand new 1 week old Bosch air filter in there. I laid into them like I owned the place and let them know if they ever sent me any junk mail I would consider it harassment and contact an attorney. Since then I have done a lot of work myself unless I didn't have time or tools.
Sad that they have such poor service at some dealers. As EST6 said, they can remove and install the head or motor for the cost they quoted you for just the removal.
Don't want to threadjack, but I have a 2000 S40 w/116K miles. I did a compression test a month or so ago after I had a bad engine coil that set off a misfire code for cylinder 2. I ended up replacing spark plugs and cylinder 2's had a little bit of oil on it. I did the compression test and cylinder 1 registered at 130 (the others were 150). Added a bit of oil and cylinder 1 went up to 150. Any idea what could be causing the issue with cylinder 1?
I'm wondering if a partially-clogged PCV system could cause any of these issues.
I'm wondering if a partially-clogged PCV system could cause any of these issues.
So what would that run me to have a shop fix? Is this something that would need to be done immediately? What would happen if it does not get repaired?
Nothing to fix. The difference between 130 and 150 psi is marginal and could just be from not cranking the engine over enough times during the test. Don't worry about it. You would have to have the engine removed and basically rebuilt which would cost more than the car is worth.
Try to get coverage through "route 66" my car has been running for months on two dead cylinders. My warranty through them is covering most of the costs on a used motor. (I didn't create the damage) mine needed to be replaced though.
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