Is it dead?
 

So, my wife managed to nick the lower radiator hose on my 2006 Volvo S40 T5. This resulted in a small but manageable leak at the connector. Unfortunately the way I discovered this was it overheated. I refilled the coolant, changed the oil and ordered the parts (upper and lower radiator hoses). It was going fine until... she drove off before I could check the coolant. So... it overheated again. Now it will not run. It will try to start, sounding horrible and then die.

Several other items: Presently the oil is a bit overfilled...I added a quart-ish prior to checking level (pretty sure that is not helping)
- The oil is NOT looking like chocolate milk.
- There was a small amount of white smoke when I initially got it started after the 2nd overheat. I attribute that to the antifreeze I spilled refilling the expansion tank and radiator.

I am pretty sure I am screwed. However, i intend to do a compression test, check the plugs and the oil. Anyone have any suggestions? (Beside prayer)

Why do you think it was your wife? How could you even do that?

Speechless.

You need a lock-out, tag-out program. Well, a tag-out program anyway. I have taped a note to the steering wheel in the past. DO NOT DRIVE, LOW COOLANT.

Not helpful now I admit.

If it won't start and sounds "horrible" there's not much I can tell you. Motor was seized by the sound of it so bearing damage and possibly also a slipped timing belt and valve to piston contact.

Blame Game
 

While I understand the tongue in cheek-ness of the response...
She is the only one who drives that car... ever...
And I do need a lockout program!

So what you are saying is that it is new engine time. Crap.

I am guessing then it is time to look for a new car because that one will cost more to repair than it is worth at this point.

Thanks for the response.

Not really possible for me to say that for sure but from your description of events, quite likely.

And remember, if all men disappeared overnight civilization would last only until the oil needed changing. After that women would be back to cracking lice in caves. Possibly with nice curtains.

Update
 

First of all that is probably true...
Second...update...
Removed the cover, plugs and performed compression test. Engine turned over smoothly with no wierd noises or shaking. However, compression was crap...cyl 1 @ 90, 2 though 4 were @ 50ish and 5 was @ 160. So basically probably a warped head and/or blown head gasket.
I can get a newsed head...but...I have not done it before. So...comments?
Suggestions?

It's not too difficult with the right tools and space. Do not separate the VVT gear from the cams. If you leave them in one piece and change the seals by sliding them over the cam lobes from the far end then you can do without the cam holder tool. Assuming you change the cam seals.

I bought new head bolts as I read they were of the torque-to-yield type.

Ok...so...
 

How much should it cost to get the head milled flat again? Since milling the head will result in a smaller combustion chamber will I need to run performance head gaskets and if so, where is the best place to get them? I am also going to replace the timing belt, water pump and thermostat as well as both upper and lower radiator hoses...did I miss anything?