Is the Owner's Manual in the glovebox? Flip throught it carefully, if you're lucky the original owner wrote the code down somewhere. It's four digits, fwiw.

By the way it wont start again
Made it 2.4 whole miles

After cranking a maximum of 30psi at the Schrader valve on the engine. I can hear the fuel pump start then stop when the ignition is turned on. I guess I got a bad pressure regulator again????

I doubt it. Fuel pump is doing what it's supposed to do.

Just a thought, have you ever changed the fuel filter?

If what I read is correct it is a 45 psi pressure regulator, I have not changed the fuel filter yet (if somebody would like to post where it is it will save me some time tomorrow) but I doubt that is the problem as the filter would reduce the flow if it were clogged not reduce the pressure at startup. I was able to get it started tonight with starting fluid, a bit easier than oiling the rings. Still no engine codes.

Similar Situation
 

Hi,
I bought a used V40 a bit ago (after another saved my life and was totaled). The light keeps coming on for P0015.

I'm not as expert as you are on cars, so bear with me. I've been trying to follow this forum, and I like to know about the problems before I bring my car to the shop and become somewhat educated.

A few months ago, the car was expelling blue/black/great smoke. There had to be some parts replaced b/c of sludge.

Cam Solenoid censor on has been replaced with gasket and timing belt is on the money!

What I noticed that my car does, that I see mentioned here is the bumpy idle and it sometimes doesn't accelerate as I *think* it should. Sometimes I really have to step on it. Sometimes when I start it too, I have to hold the key for a few seconds too long. Also, when it's idling, I notice the fan comes on a lot. Don't know if that's related.

What does this sound like? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks:D

It could be the cam solenoid has failed again due to the previously mentioned sludge. Did you replace the solenoid at the time the work was done for the smoke? Near the bottom of this thread are pics of the solenoid taken apart. https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...0-47208/page2/

I've also heard of the VVT gear failing internally. Normally the VVT starts leaking oil from the little plunger thingy sometime after 100k miles but this will not set a code. However, if the VVT gear fails it will set a code.

There is a possibility the cam position sensor is bad. This to me is the least likely. The sensor is reporting the cam as over-retarded (P0015 code) so the fact that it's reporting data at all suggests it's still good.

My guess with regards to P0015 is that whoever replaced the timing belt last did it incorrectly. I got the same code after attempting mine. Started over, made an adjustment to the way I tensioned the belt and code went away. Try the cam sensor first though.

thanks for the advice.

The timing belt has been checked twice and it is perfect.

After the smoke incident, the cam solenoid sensor (the one on top of the timing belt, right) was replaced. Actually a couple months after.

The light started coming on a couple months after the whole smoke thing. That's when the sensor was replaced. We keep cleaning the new sensor and the lines to it and doing oil changes, as needed. And then cleaning the code. It takes some time to come back on (weeks).

Ive been driving the car now for a while, the check engine light is always one. Starting after she has been sitting overnight is very difficult. Once she has started she will restart and run without issue. My assumption the fuel lines have a leak and it bleeds back to the tank. She starts on a couple cylinders then picks up the others although sometimes it takes 5+ min of trying to get her to start.

It takes weeks between codes? Yikes. My guess it's either the camshaft reset valve (aka cam solenoid) again or the VVT gear itself.

You can have the code checked for free at Autozone, Advance, etc. Long cranking times have normally been a bad fuel pressure regulator. Occasionally it's a bad check valve in the fuel pump. You need to check the fuel pressure first. Pressure should build immediately on cranking and stay there for many minutes after the engine is shutoff.

So to follow up....
I finally brought the car to Volvo... they confirmed that the next step for the CEL would be the hub. Total cost would be $900 because of the long labor. Might wait a bit on that.

In the meantime, they found that my fuel pressure regulator needed to be replaced. I did replace that and my car works 10X better.
It now starts up right away and is calm when idling. I think it's a bit quieter too. So that solved part of the problem!

Will they give you the specific VIDA error codes? They would have done a print-out.

I know well enough about checking the codes for free but its a pain when the misfire causes the code to come back on the next day. Fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump have been replaced. The pressure holds fine for min/hours but overnight is a problem. I don't have time or money to check the lines to find out where the leak is right now so I just keep running it as is.