hey guys,

So two day's ago i got a cel, checked it out and it was P0015-camshaft position actuator B-Bank 1 timing over - retard.

I cleared the code and drove home. next day i checked that there is almost no oil in there (not sure how this happned since the low oil indicator never came on)

Got 2 quartz of mobil 1 synthetic oil and filled it to min, and drove it to get oil change done with the filter.

(on my last oil change i am debating on whether or not they changed my filter.. )

so now that my oil and filter is replaced, after driving it today the same code came on again?

What do you think this is from ? VVT solenoid ? should i reset the computer by taking out the battery? please help me figure it out...

Thanks

 

Is this the 1.9L turbo?

Clearing codes is done with a code reader which is free at places like Autozone and Advance. (They want you to buy parts that the codes point to)

I've had luck running a pint of ATF for a day or two before an engine oil change. The ATF cleans out the crud that can build up on the cam sensor. Seafoam in the oil works very much the same way. Just follow the directions when using it in your oil including the oil change soon after use.

 

I have also had the P0015 (cam bank B over-retard) code for a while, but also the P0014 (Cam bank B over -accuated). And now on top of those also the P0118 (coolant sensor). I changed the camshaft position sensor. I changed the purge valve. I changed a bad ignition coil. I changed the cam seleniod. I changed the coolant temperature sensor. and last I cleaned the MAF and the Air Intake Control and the Throttle body (thanks to the great instructions on this forum). After each of the changes the CEL would go out on its own for a while (a day, a week, even a month or so- that was after the ignition coil) but it keeps coming back and the 0014 and 0015 are consistent. Any other suggestions?
The car for the most part runs fine.
Thanks.
2000 s40 1.9 turbo

 

hey guys, Velogrrrl, when you say you have the p0015 code for a while, its not something that needs to be looked at asap and fixed? i mean i have been driving on it for about a week or so and im just wondering how big of an issue that is..

Yes its the 1.9t 2001 - i did do a obd II reader CEL check and cleared the code and it came back on im assuimg the issue is within something else, so you are refering to the engine having build up thats why it maybe cause the P0015 code to go off? i just recently did the oil change i want to make sure the seafoam would help before doing it and asking for another oild change

Thanks for the response guys im going to do more searching on what to do about the code and what i can replace to get rid of it, if you all find anything please let me know also

 

Well... mine has been on and off for a year. So I guess I am of the thought of it not being pressing. For some more talk on this topic you can also check this thread on volvo-forums Obd Issues - 2000 S40 1.9t
I haven't seafoamed yet, but plan to. I have also been told that maybe I need a new CVVT hub. Not exactly what I wanted to hear as this is a job I can't do myself, but that seems to be the only other suggestion besides the CVVT selenoid, cam position sensor, (both of which I changed), and seafoam.

 

I've had the same P0015 code on my 2001 1.9T come on and off in the winter (only) ever since I got the car used in 2004. Looked into the car history and the previous owner did not change the oil very regularly. I am almost certain it's due to sludge buildup especially since it only happens when it gets cold (I'm in Canada)... the sludge probably gets more mucky. I've had the solenoid changed to no avail. Only thing which seems to help the issue is occasionally flushing the engine and synthetic oil changes. I'll see what happens this winter as I just flushed it again. Other than that, the engine has no issues performance wise etc... Clean it well a few times and see if it helps.
Athilla

 

Is there anybody that actually solved the issue about the P0015 code on a 2001 Volvo S40? ( I'm a bit frustrated for not beeing able to fix this problem. )
It seems to be a common problem and based on all the users steps it still doesn't fix it.
I'm looking for successful steps that worked from any of you.
Thanks a million !

Viktu ( Canada )

 

I owned the Volvo about a year and the 14 and15 codes started (camshaft sensor advanced and camshaft sensor retarted). I cleared the codes long enough to get the car renewed after I changed the sensor.

I would be interested in a long term fix. What is this seafoam actually doing?

JPJMustang -

 

Seafoam just cleans the oily sludge buildup that this engine seems to accumulate in the small passages responsible for actuating the CVVT gear. The old school method is a pint of ATF in the oil. You want to change your oil after this treatment per the instructions on the can of Seafoam.

To me, if the cam sensor is not malfunctioning, getting an over-advanced and over-retarded malfunction together would be a sign the CVVT gear is not working at all. The cam is swinging to the CVVT's mechanical limits. This is an expensive guess though. Maybe hook up a DICE device with the VIDA software and actually watch the cam move.

 

I first got the p0014 code and presumably adjusted the belt. the code went away and now I have the p0017 code cam/crank position correlation. changed the solenoid and gasket(brand new) and changed the oil, cleared the code but it came back. engine seems to run fine. any suggestions guys?

 

What does " presumably adjusted the belt." mean? Do the cam position marks line up? Also, what year and engine do you have?

 

I have an 00 S40 at my shop with a p0014 p0015 cam timing both over retarded and under retarded. I presume the actuator is the solenoid looking object on top of the valve cover. I suppose this device monitors the hydrolic pressure of the oil and opens to actuate the variable valve timing. If this is indeed how this sensor works a clogged oil passage would make sense as, these codes return as soon as they are reset. 1 Should I remove and clean the actuator? 2 Is this actuator the cam sensor ? 3 Is this a sign the the cam timing is off, as the car runs flawlessly. 4 could I remove the valve cover and clean its passages? Any help would be great as this car seems to be in wonderful besides these super common codes!!!!

 

Yes, the rectangle looking thing on top of the exhaust cam, passenger side. It allows hot oil under pressure to enter the big CVVT gear on the exhaust cam. I have not read a single thread where cleaning has fixed the issue though. I always assumed the solenoid part has failed and no amount of cleaning will fix it. The CVVT gear could also have failed internally. The cam sensor is on the driver's side of the exhaust cam. It's inserted into the reluctor wheel cover and held by a 10mm bolt.

Here is the cam reluctor wheel cover. You can see where the sensor is mounted to the cover.


Here is what's under the cover, the reluctor wheel.

 

Could a clogged pcv system be contributing to these problems described above?
Infrequent oil and filter changes often cause the pcv to get chocked up.

 

I would think it's possible. The 1.9L engine gets super hot and the oil just bakes going through the turbo. Add low quality oil and too many miles between changes and you have a recipe for sludge.

 

Due for inspection and the wife says "check engine light's on"

Course, it's throwing a P0015 - same old pain in the ssa.

I am sick of spending $10 a pint on Seafoam and (at least once a year - more frequently lately) having to open and... basically stare at the valve for a while, spray the grooves out with carb cleaner and close it up. Then just pray that the dash stays clear - at least until I get enough "ready to read permissives" to pass the inspection.

This time it was only a day or so and the scanner would show 2-3 P0015's.

Anyway, here is what I found:

The both the cartridge and spool are machined from brass and you wouldn't think they would pick up and build up with appeared to be mineral deposits. Did not look like any oil residue - the 2 parts were tightly bound with a gray/white film. I run Mobil 1 and keep it fresh - not lack of maintenance.

They were so tight that I mangled the spool lands and ID of the cartridge using a pick and screwdriver. They didn't work anyway - in the end I wound up running a 1/4- 20 tap down the ID of the spool and yanking it out like a cork from a wine bottle.

But that's later; first - because I had scratched up the brass so bad - a just gave up threw the valve into a bath of ZEP brand CLR and went to shop for a new VVT.

Didn't find one - didn't matter though. When I took the valve out of the CLR I instinctively shook it to check for motion between the spool/cartridge. I was shocked to hear a nice clack clack - (the circlip and spring had already been removed).

Still didn't want to separate - and thats were the tap came in.

Another CLR bath, a little dressing up with a jewelers file, some final smoothing with 2000 grit emery and re- assembled. Some visuals:

 

The other pictures:




I hope that this helps some people in the future. Don't fool around with oil additives, don't start tearing your wiring apart looking for bad connections or think your ECU is going - the VVT valve proper is most likely bound up.

Just release the harness clip and 4 securing bolts, remove the brass guts from the aluminum out housing and soak them in CLR for an hour or so. Take the tiny circlip (very soft metal BTW), spring cap and spring out of the cartridge. You should have learned from my mistakes and not mangled the brass - the spool should fall right out.

Clean the parts with a green Scotchbrite pad (or 1000-2000 emery) coat with light machine oil and re-assemble.

That's it - I hate typing.

 

That rocks. Thank you for figuring that out.

 

I got super excited about this "fix" (the dismantling of the vvt and cleaning), until I realized that I had already replaced my vvt. Therefore, I have to assume, cleaning it wasn't going to be the fix we all had been hoping for. Has the cleaning that you did chengny kept the codes at bay? Love to hear an update. I am once again at the point of trying to get the CEL off for inspection. Thanks for any update that you have.

 

There are two different components. (1) The VVT hub, which you have already replaced and (2) the solenoid actuator, pictured above being cleaned.