Persistant airflow issues, I think?
#1
12-30-2012 | 01:39 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Persistant airflow issues, I think?
I live in a very cold climate and I have had quite a few problems with my 2001 S40 1.9L turbo during the last two winters that I've owned it. I took it to my mechanic the first year and he assured me the problem had been fixed, but the problem just happened again and at this point I'm just looking for second opinions to try to help him find the cause of the issue.
Long story short, if I'm starting the car cold, pressing the accelerator with the car in gear does nothing, the RPM does not increase and I do not accelerate, the car just drifts forward if I take my foot off the brake. If I put the car in neutral or park, pressing the accelerator causes the engine to rev normally, but of course I don't go anywhere. Once the engine warms up then the throttle becomes more responsive, but the car does not like to shift up. I can hit up to 3500 RPM before it changes gears, though I've found easing off the gas slightly will get it to change. It's annoying and takes some getting used to, but it wasn't really crippling. This effect would be worsened if I was parked outside in the cold. The problem would occur less often if I was in a garage (even if unheated). During this time, the check engine light would come on during times of trouble, and then turn off on it's own after a day or two of trouble-free driving.
But one time last year the car simply wouldn't start one night. The engine would crank, but never start, despite turning off all accessory power (just to be safe). After trying a few times, the engine fan would come on and stay on for several minutes, despite the car never starting. When I got it towed to the garage, they said they found huge oil-covered blocks of ice in my engine intake ducts. They cleaned the pipes out, sprayed them with some moisture repellant, fit me with a winter front (which I still use) and sent me on my way.
The exact same thing happened this year, with the throttle issues coming around just as it hit about -25 degrees C outside, and just last night the car failing to start again. Exactly the same situation as last year...does anyone know what the root cause might be or how I can prevent this issue from coming back every winter?
Once again, any input is greatly appreciated, thank you!
Relevant (I think) repair history:
-Got a new battery put in March 2012
-Code P0507 high idle RPM repaired Feb 2012
-Code P0128 Thermostat and coolant temperature control sensor repaired Feb 2012 (the temperature sensor actually failed AGAIN this year, they fixed it free of charge)
On a hunch I checked the engine air filter, but couldn't find any evidence of moisture or ice buildup.
Long story short, if I'm starting the car cold, pressing the accelerator with the car in gear does nothing, the RPM does not increase and I do not accelerate, the car just drifts forward if I take my foot off the brake. If I put the car in neutral or park, pressing the accelerator causes the engine to rev normally, but of course I don't go anywhere. Once the engine warms up then the throttle becomes more responsive, but the car does not like to shift up. I can hit up to 3500 RPM before it changes gears, though I've found easing off the gas slightly will get it to change. It's annoying and takes some getting used to, but it wasn't really crippling. This effect would be worsened if I was parked outside in the cold. The problem would occur less often if I was in a garage (even if unheated). During this time, the check engine light would come on during times of trouble, and then turn off on it's own after a day or two of trouble-free driving.
But one time last year the car simply wouldn't start one night. The engine would crank, but never start, despite turning off all accessory power (just to be safe). After trying a few times, the engine fan would come on and stay on for several minutes, despite the car never starting. When I got it towed to the garage, they said they found huge oil-covered blocks of ice in my engine intake ducts. They cleaned the pipes out, sprayed them with some moisture repellant, fit me with a winter front (which I still use) and sent me on my way.
The exact same thing happened this year, with the throttle issues coming around just as it hit about -25 degrees C outside, and just last night the car failing to start again. Exactly the same situation as last year...does anyone know what the root cause might be or how I can prevent this issue from coming back every winter?
Once again, any input is greatly appreciated, thank you!
Relevant (I think) repair history:
-Got a new battery put in March 2012
-Code P0507 high idle RPM repaired Feb 2012
-Code P0128 Thermostat and coolant temperature control sensor repaired Feb 2012 (the temperature sensor actually failed AGAIN this year, they fixed it free of charge)
On a hunch I checked the engine air filter, but couldn't find any evidence of moisture or ice buildup.
Last edited by Ehrlang; 12-30-2012 at 04:22 PM.
#2
12-30-2012 | 04:30 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 7
From: Las Vegas NV
This seem pretty weird.I think we have to blow this apart a little as it seem you have multiple problems.First the weirdest.Where did they find ice cubes in the intake.Before or after the filter.I have never heard of such thing altho the S40 gets the air from behind the fender and if there is a broken plastic the ice/snow could possibly been sucked in but that stops at the filter.This could cause a blockage in airflow for sure.
If this is the case you take the battery out and remove a cover held by 4 screws from the lower side of airfilter box facing to the front.This will give a new hole for the engine to breath trough preventing ice forming on the intake.
When you say pressing the accelerator with the car in gear does nothing two things comes to mind.One is the tranny having a fit because of the wrong oil being used which could become as thick as honey in cold.Your car needs this oil in the tranny if there is anything else you should replace it.
Mobil ATF 3309 Case of 12 quarts
The second is if your brakes are in fact disengaging.If not then your car will not go.It is very much possible especially if you a regular handbrake user that the water froze on there and will lock the wheel even tho you did put the lever back.To verify try to push on the car to see if this is the case.
The battery always the first suspect especially in cold climate.You maybe doing short trips and it doesnt get enough time to recharge.I just had this issue with a 3 weeks old battery.What I did I went out and bought a portable power station which if this happens again I can easily start the car with.The fan starting up for me on my own car always the first sight of weak battery.Some says its a problem with the MAF.Now that you said there was ice in the intake that could cause problems with the MAF.
Seeing that you have some real cold over there where you live this little gadget could save you some headache.
Volvo Engine Block Heater - Genuine Volvo Accessories
The guys I know who had the p0128 all fixed the problem with a coolant flush
If this is the case you take the battery out and remove a cover held by 4 screws from the lower side of airfilter box facing to the front.This will give a new hole for the engine to breath trough preventing ice forming on the intake.
When you say pressing the accelerator with the car in gear does nothing two things comes to mind.One is the tranny having a fit because of the wrong oil being used which could become as thick as honey in cold.Your car needs this oil in the tranny if there is anything else you should replace it.
Mobil ATF 3309 Case of 12 quarts
The second is if your brakes are in fact disengaging.If not then your car will not go.It is very much possible especially if you a regular handbrake user that the water froze on there and will lock the wheel even tho you did put the lever back.To verify try to push on the car to see if this is the case.
The battery always the first suspect especially in cold climate.You maybe doing short trips and it doesnt get enough time to recharge.I just had this issue with a 3 weeks old battery.What I did I went out and bought a portable power station which if this happens again I can easily start the car with.The fan starting up for me on my own car always the first sight of weak battery.Some says its a problem with the MAF.Now that you said there was ice in the intake that could cause problems with the MAF.
Seeing that you have some real cold over there where you live this little gadget could save you some headache.
Volvo Engine Block Heater - Genuine Volvo Accessories
The guys I know who had the p0128 all fixed the problem with a coolant flush
#3
12-30-2012 | 06:27 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I wish I could remember more of what they said last year, but the way they explained it to me was that oil droplets are fed into the turbocharger along with the air, and that if the oil coats bits of snow and ice, it prevents them from melting, which over time blocks the airflow so much that the engine won't start. That's about as well as I can remember it, sorry 
The exact wording on the work order is:
"Found ice blocking air ducts, removed ice blockages from engine bay and engine intake systems." Sorry it's not terribly specific.
I'm not sure what kind of ATF I have in the transmission, but the guys at the shop know their stuff so I would hope it's meant for our climate. Last time I had my car in for it's 10,000km checkup they said my fluids were still good. Even so, I was thinking about having my transmission fluid and coolant flushed this summer, since I bought the car used and there's no indication of when the fluids were last changed.
If it was an ATF issue, would the transmission light come on, or would it generate a check engine light code? My transmission light has never come on for me, and all of my check engine codes have been airflow related (as well as the idle RPM and temp sensor codes). And I have maybe used the handbrake once...I guess I just luck out and am able to park on level surfaces often :P
When the tow truck came to take my car, he suspected a battery issue too, so he tried to jump start my car but it didn't work.
Although I am not always able to plug in, I have an oil pan heater as opposed to a heater for the whole engine block. Would a whole block heater be preferable? I use synthetic 5w30, and change it and the filter twice a year.
The exact wording on the work order is:
"Found ice blocking air ducts, removed ice blockages from engine bay and engine intake systems." Sorry it's not terribly specific.
I'm not sure what kind of ATF I have in the transmission, but the guys at the shop know their stuff so I would hope it's meant for our climate. Last time I had my car in for it's 10,000km checkup they said my fluids were still good. Even so, I was thinking about having my transmission fluid and coolant flushed this summer, since I bought the car used and there's no indication of when the fluids were last changed.
If it was an ATF issue, would the transmission light come on, or would it generate a check engine light code? My transmission light has never come on for me, and all of my check engine codes have been airflow related (as well as the idle RPM and temp sensor codes). And I have maybe used the handbrake once...I guess I just luck out and am able to park on level surfaces often :P
When the tow truck came to take my car, he suspected a battery issue too, so he tried to jump start my car but it didn't work.
Although I am not always able to plug in, I have an oil pan heater as opposed to a heater for the whole engine block. Would a whole block heater be preferable? I use synthetic 5w30, and change it and the filter twice a year.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
