Possible purchase
#1
Possible purchase
I’m new here. Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but I couldn’t find it.
I’m considering purchasing a 2003 S40 sedan. The owner had a diagnostic run & offered the 2 codes. They chose not to pursue it further & purchased a new vehicle instead. The price is right, but I know how expensive repairs on a Volvo can be. I’ve owned several.
the codes are ECM-5A (she did tell me that they have to top up the coolant occasionally) and ECM-61.
I know it’s not much to go on, but I need an actual vehicle after a moped accident day before yesterday. I’m 63 years old & broken bones are no fun!
Does anybody have any advice for me? They’re asking $2500 & I’m in Hawaii, so it’s a reasonable price unless it needs a new cat converter. I’m on a fixed income & a huge repair bill right off the bat would defeat the purpose of paying cash for a safe vehicle.
Thanks in advance..
Michele
I’m considering purchasing a 2003 S40 sedan. The owner had a diagnostic run & offered the 2 codes. They chose not to pursue it further & purchased a new vehicle instead. The price is right, but I know how expensive repairs on a Volvo can be. I’ve owned several.
the codes are ECM-5A (she did tell me that they have to top up the coolant occasionally) and ECM-61.
I know it’s not much to go on, but I need an actual vehicle after a moped accident day before yesterday. I’m 63 years old & broken bones are no fun!
Does anybody have any advice for me? They’re asking $2500 & I’m in Hawaii, so it’s a reasonable price unless it needs a new cat converter. I’m on a fixed income & a huge repair bill right off the bat would defeat the purpose of paying cash for a safe vehicle.
Thanks in advance..
Michele
#2
Ecm5a is a catalytic converter efficiency code, and could easily mean the converter is no longer capable of doing it's job. Ecm 61 is related to the variable valve timing. Anything from low oil, low oil pressure, bad vvt valve, clogged passageway to it, bad vvt gear, cam timing slightly off can cause that code.
As someone who owned a Volvo specialty garage for 40 years and made lots of money fixing the 99-2004 sv40's - I would not recommend anyone that has limited income for repairs purchase one. The 99-2004 sv40's were actually not a true Volvo product, they were a joint venture with __________ (sorry can't remember the other Brand)
As someone who owned a Volvo specialty garage for 40 years and made lots of money fixing the 99-2004 sv40's - I would not recommend anyone that has limited income for repairs purchase one. The 99-2004 sv40's were actually not a true Volvo product, they were a joint venture with __________ (sorry can't remember the other Brand)
#3
Ecm5a is a catalytic converter efficiency code, and could easily mean the converter is no longer capable of doing it's job. Ecm 61 is related to the variable valve timing. Anything from low oil, low oil pressure, bad vvt valve, clogged passageway to it, bad vvt gear, cam timing slightly off can cause that code.
As someone who owned a Volvo specialty garage for 40 years and made lots of money fixing the 99-2004 sv40's - I would not recommend anyone that has limited income for repairs purchase one. The 99-2004 sv40's were actually not a true Volvo product, they were a joint venture with __________ (sorry can't remember the other Brand)
As someone who owned a Volvo specialty garage for 40 years and made lots of money fixing the 99-2004 sv40's - I would not recommend anyone that has limited income for repairs purchase one. The 99-2004 sv40's were actually not a true Volvo product, they were a joint venture with __________ (sorry can't remember the other Brand)
I’ll keep looking..Thanks again!
#4
The JV was with Mitsubishi but Gen1s were built in the Netherlands. The catalytic converter efficiency code can be set by an intake or exhaust leak or an old converter or O2 sensor. Its not uncommon for that model to develop an exhaust leak at the flex pipe on the exhaust. Good news is an after market replacement part will include both the flex pipe and the converter for a reasonable sum. As to the VVT code, its not uncommon for the actuators to get gummed up requiring a new gear or solenoid, usually caused by a PO not keeping clean oil (running synthetic really helps for these cars). Again not a horribly expensive repair when done as part of a timing belt refresh. Plenty of posts have discussed at length. So, the net of this is to estimate the cost to repair should be deducted from any offer price. I"d venture that if you had the work done at a shop, you'd be looking at $1K for both the cat and VVT fix. If you are a DIY type, you can probably do both for under $500 in parts.
#5
Repair costs
Thank you for this information. They’re only asking for $2500, so I doubt they’d take less. It’s a gamble. The dealer here said the CC (if needed) costs between $4000 & $7000 for just the part, so I’m waivering.
I did find a ‘07 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Coupe for $4000. I don’t know much about cars. I just know I can’t ride a moped any longer. My body can’t handle being slammed to the ground again!
I did find a ‘07 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Coupe for $4000. I don’t know much about cars. I just know I can’t ride a moped any longer. My body can’t handle being slammed to the ground again!
#6
The dealer you're talking to sounds like an "opportunist". That price sounds utterly ridiculous. Maybe that alone is reason enough to avoid a Volvo where you live.
FWIW, when I'm advising people looking for a low-maintenance car, I'll point them toward a Toyota or Honda (or Lexus or Acura, same thing). No car is "NO-maintenance", and any car can be a collection of deferred maintenance that will have to be done right away (and that can add $thousands to the price of a "cheap car"). Get familiar with the suggested maintenance schedule for any car you're looking at, and compare the DOCUMENTED service the owner can show you against that list, to figure out what you're going to be on the hook for immediately (or soon). For example, buying an S40 with 140,000 miles that hasn't had the timing belt done just spent $1000 for a new timing belt - unless you prefer to risk driving with the old belt, which could reduce your engine to a paperweight and cost you a LOT more.
FWIW, when I'm advising people looking for a low-maintenance car, I'll point them toward a Toyota or Honda (or Lexus or Acura, same thing). No car is "NO-maintenance", and any car can be a collection of deferred maintenance that will have to be done right away (and that can add $thousands to the price of a "cheap car"). Get familiar with the suggested maintenance schedule for any car you're looking at, and compare the DOCUMENTED service the owner can show you against that list, to figure out what you're going to be on the hook for immediately (or soon). For example, buying an S40 with 140,000 miles that hasn't had the timing belt done just spent $1000 for a new timing belt - unless you prefer to risk driving with the old belt, which could reduce your engine to a paperweight and cost you a LOT more.
#7
#8
The front CC costs $800-1000 or so and add another 200 for labor and 300 for new O2 sensors. You can buy all these parts online so you just will need to find a shop to install. Another idea is to install a cel-boss spacer on the rear O2 sensor to move that out of the airflow, which usually cures the code.
#9
#10
Probably a good idea to pass on the Volvo. It sounds more like a car for somebody who can do the work themselves than a person looking just for a budget daily driver. I'm not sure if the Eclipse will be more reliable. Oddly, the Gen 1 S40s were a joint development with Mitsubishi and Volvo. The 2004+ S40s were based on a Volvo platform so they're more in common with the S60s and probably a better choice.
#11
#12
FWIW, I believe the interval for changing the timing belt in that Mitsubishi is 105,000 miles, and maybe 84 months (which would make it WAY overdue if it hasn't been done). If it HAS been done, there will be an obvious sticker on the engine somewhere stating the date and mileage of the replacement. I'm guessing that the cost of doing the timing belt will be in the $1000 range. I'd suggest asking the owner for all his/her maintenance records, and comparing it to the suggested maintenance schedule - just so you have an idea of the "deferred maintenance" that you'll be on the hook for once you own the car.
And FWIW again, if the timing belt fails, the engine is reduced to a large paperweight, so it's a very important service item. ;-)
And FWIW again, if the timing belt fails, the engine is reduced to a large paperweight, so it's a very important service item. ;-)
#13
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jrichardson
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05-24-2012 01:06 PM