I am still working on an ongoing issue, After I start the car while the engine is cold there is a rattle/ knock coming from the passenger side of the engine located around ps pump area. Through trial and error I have replaced the PS Pump, drive belt tensioner and even for good meassure replaced the thermostat again. thermo only because I do not remember the noise prior to replacing it the first time and I thought maybe a faulty part. Started engine this morning when cold and noise still present. Noise sound like a bad pulley bearing or loose bolt rattling around or something of that nature. Could the alternater make a noise similar to this? Could be internal?, I hope not! Also, after engine warms the noise is not noticable.

Thanks for any help!

 

Check your exhaust manifiold nuts/studs.

I had almost identical symptoms, and thought the engine surely was shot. Made a horrible racket when starting it up, but it'd go away after a minute or so. After pulling off the turbo cover, I found that one of the studs was missing, two nuts were missing and most others were loose.

Volvo came out with a captive-nut solution for this apparently too common problem. IIRC they're around $5/ea.

 

Went ahead and checked exhaust manifold, all is tight

?????????

 

Last timing belt and pulleys?

 

Has not been done. I have the timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley and water pump. I amreasonably mechanically competent, is this a task I should undertake or take parts to a shop to have done? I have reservations about getting the cam pulley's out of alignment (would simply marking there spot prior to removing the old belt be sufficient if they where to move?). Also, is there any other tips or guidence anybody has to offer?

Thanks

 

Marking before removing the belt is always good and will work fine.

 

Don't worry if the cam gears move, the timing belt cover and cam gears have marks you use to align them. The teeth on the belt are wide enough that there won't be any doubt if you have it correct. Mine moved 2 or 3 times as I wrestled with the timing belt. I learned it would have been a good idea to make something to hold the cams in place. Just make sure you do not rotate the engine with the timing belt removed. This would be bad.

Some things I learned were you need a special tool to hold the crank from turning as you remove the main pulley nut. I'll post a pic of mine. Also, some heat from an oxy/acetlene torch or map gas (etc) placed on the pulley nut will help breaking it loose. You will need a decent breaker bar or cheater bar to overcome 140 lbs/ft of torque too. I had to lay on my side with my feet on the special tool and my hands on the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and push on the tool. It took some strength but it came loose. That was the hardest thing for me.

The timing belt tensioner is slightly tricky as you have to line up the arrow showing correct tension while tightening the bolt holding the tensioner in place. You do this after lining up the arrow with an allen head wrench. The problem is the bolt holding the tensioner is a cam bolt and moves the tensioner. Just takes some trial and error to find the sweet spot of lining up the arrow and tightening the bolt so the arrow ends up in the right spot. A torque wrench is critical.

 

Here is the tool. It's four 18" pieces of 1/8" X 1" flat steel bar stock from the local Ace Hardware. I used two 3ft pieces and cut them in half to make four 18" pieces. You could also use a single 1/4" piece 3ft long and work from there. Next I drilled a hole 11 1/4" from the end and placed a bolt and nut through all four pieces. I then drilled another hole 1/2" from the long end. The middle hole size was determined by the bolt I had on hand. The holes near the end need to be big enough for the pulley bolts to pass through. Split the tool into an X as pictured and bolt the long end to the harmonic balancer where the main pulley would normally go. I had to turn over the engine slightly to line everything up so I could get my breaker bar on at the angle I needed. Since you are lying on the floor with a foot on the tool and your arms grabbing the breaker bar you need everything just right.

 

Hudini

Maybe i am not as familiar with the process as I thought from reading prior posts. Is removing the main pulley nut off the crank necessary to do when replacing the timing belt and associated pulley's (also water pump)???

Process as I understand it is as follows. Jack up car to remove RF wheel, place jack under engine and remove engine mount, remove timing belt cover, mark cam pulley position, release tension on belt, remove belt, replace idler pulley, replace tensioner, replace water pump and reroute new belt. Is it not as straight forward as that??? Anything else to look for.

Just got qouted $425 from a shop if I have the parts?

 

Had new timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley and water pump installed yesturday. Rattle noiser still there, any thought on what it could be?????????????????????????????????????????

 

Does it sound like a Tapping noise?
Like tapping a coin on metal?

 

not so much a tapping, but more of a knocking around (similar to if a bolt was caught in a cavity and was rattling around) also, seems to go away after engine heats up.

 

Have the oil pan o-rings been replaced yet?

 

Not to my knowledge, whats invloved?

 

Removing the oil pan and resealing it.

 

zerochills.....have you found a resolution to this problem? I recently purchased an S60 with the same problem.

 

i just pruchased a 2002 volvo s40 1.9t in january, i have a tapping noise coming from the front, dont know if its the same problem as yours. i also had a simular problem with my old honda accord and re-did the valve spacing, it worked for that car and i plan on it when i get time for my volvo.

 

Where you able to fix the rattling? I have an '02 volvo s40 and has the same problem and was wondering if you had found a solution to the problem.

 

Ditto, '08 s40

 

2002 S40. To me it sounds like dragging tin cans. Found this video of the noise:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AC5k1...eature=related

I guess its going to be either the idler or tensioner pulley:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SzGs...eature=related

or bad altenator bearings:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVRVn...eature=related

However - it only occurs at idle and goes away after 5 minutes? I live in Buffalo - temperateure has been below freezing for a while - so im sure the cold starts are no fun for an engine. I just dont see how the parts above could be effected by the cold? Any guesses