I got drawn in too. My current situation revolves around my purchase of the car in the title. The car ran seamlessly for about 2 months. Car just quit on me luckily on the same street in which I live. It overheated and not thinking clearly or just out of frustration, I just walked home, grabbed oil and water, walked back, filled her up, and after letting her cool a bit, cranked her and drove her the rest of the way home. I didn't think anything of it except maybe over the time I had driven her, there was a slow coolant leak that was just not seen or build a puddle of sorts. The next day, drove to school, then started onto work. about 5 miles later, car did the same thing. I pulled over and whipped out the oil and water I left in the car just in case. I waited on the car to cool, attempt and failed at starting her and had the car towed home.
I started my venture on fixing the issue and I would say that the amount coolant that just disappeared in such a short time frame that a head leak is present. I started pulling things apart a few days ago for 2/3 hours each day before the sun burns me alive. I just have some general questions as I'm new to Volvo. The haynes manual I purchased through IPD states it does not address the 2.5L model. Is the 2.4L it does cover much different? I'm asking because I have misplaced this book that came in less than a week ago (do I need to find it?).
Currently I have removed the following;
Airbox/ECU, Air intake plenum/manifold, 2 belt tensioners, engine cover...
So far the only things I have found which are rather annoying are wiring harnesses tape tubing just falling apart and the breather hose just crumbled. If the car has 160k miles, would no one have noticed this even doing maintenance?


Now I'm at a stopping point. I can't see due to the angle to remove the exhaust manifold and I also haven't removed the timing components...
I know very little about locking the cams/crank. I bought the locking set from IPD as well but from reading, due to the VVT I dont need it until assembly. Anyone have any advice or send me to a previous post that explains this and how to not break valves.
I followed the Haynes manual for my 06 ST and broke all my exhaust valves which has left 2 bad tastes, timing and Haynes.
Also, with having all this apart I'm doing water pump, tensioners, belts, hoses that break, etc.
Anything else I should do? If you were in my shoes, would you replace the oil/water separater? I've read they go bad on these cars.

 

I'm assuming you are going to repair/replace the head?

Check your rear passenger side carpet footwell for coolant soaking through the carpet. When the o-rings for the heater core leak the coolant runs up under the carpet to the rear passenger footwell. I could not find my leak for the longest time until one day I noticed my feet were sticky after sitting in the back. There was only the slightest hint of a coolant smell.

You have a monster coolant hose system under the intake. My T5 cracked one of the T fittings that allowed coolant to leak onto the ground. Otherwise check for water in the oil. Also check for one spark plug that's different than the other 3.

Consider changing the thermostat while you have the intake manifold off.

I would at least clean the oil/water separator. It can get pretty gunky over time given it's job.

To avoid needless headache you can leave the VVT gear attached to the cam. You will need to pull the cam seal off the opposite end.

Reassembly involves lining up the crank gear mark (which is not TDC but rather has the pistons down in their bores a bit to avoid valve contact) and locking down the cams using the cam locking tool if you have it. If you do not remove or loosen the VVT gear then your VVT alignment will not change relative to the cam. Either way make sure the VVT gear and cam gear marks align with their respective notches on the timing cover.

 

If the head is not warped, I will just be replacing the head gasket and throwing the lot back together. I checked the passenger rear carpet and did not find it to be damp. The coolant behind the thermostat was like brown sludge. Just from looking at the front where the intake mounts, the 3rd and 4th areas are much cleaner than the rest ie free of carbon buildup (that's from standing in front of the car and counting left to right). This morning, I got the valve cover and cams off. Next I have to find my breaker bar for the head bolts. Any advice on how to remove the crank bolt without air tools? I replaced the thermostat as suggested and that breather hose I pictured above. When I got to reassemble, I'll doc it for anyone else's reference. I am kind of astonished to not find a walk through for all that entails this job. Just finding bits and pieces here and there.

 

Check the upper radiator hose. It has a plastic "T" that is known to crack and leak coolant.

 

If you can get an electric impact tool. It's just as good as the air version and it travels anywhere.

For the crank nut heat is your friend. I use a standard acetylene cutting torch and just heat the nut to expand it a tiny bit then hit it with the impact wrench. Works every time. Rusty exhaust nuts sometimes need to be cherry red to loosen. But they all comply with enough heat. You have to be careful of cooking oil seals though. Only enough for it to break free.

 

@ Autonaut: I will have to check on that "T". I am actually surprised to find the hoses to be in good shape. That hose from the picture above just came apart like a potato chip. I've felt around and all the hoses seem to bounce back when squeezed and don't seem to be dry.
@ Hudini: I found my electric impact wrench. 450 lbs of torque took the crank nut off. I was exceptionally happy let me tell you. Unsure why something so simple can bring so much joy.

My apologies for the so many questions. For these T5 engines, what is the best setup to remove the head bolts? What worked on the ST is not working for the T5. Right now I have, or had a 3/8 deep socket, 3/8 - 1/2 adapter, breaker bar, and galvanize pipe. I was able to break free one head bolt. I moved to the 2nd and the adapter broke. I'll probably go get another adapter... maybe an impact grade one to use. I just wonder if anyone has a better method. I was going to try the impact wrench but the impact socket won't fit in the cylinder head due to width. Thanks guys.

 

It's just leverage and muscle. Some people have good luck with tightening a tiny tiny bit to break loose any rust. Mainly it's just applying sufficient force.

 

So I have had the head off for some time now and yesterday, I started replacing parts that are now easily accessible: Water pump, Hoses from IPD 121335 (Kit came with the "T" hose suggested by Hudini and Autonaut), Oil filter (easy peasy), Thermostat, andTemperature sensor. My various additions will go in on reinstall (new spark plugs, new gaskets, seals, air filter).
I've been at this point for about 2 weeks. I don't have much time on my hands but since I got the cylinder head off, that's been my focus. The highest measurement using a straight edge and some feeler gauges on the head was initially .012". Since, I have used glass and sandpaper and gotten it down to now a high of .003" and from what I have read the max is .002". For some reason, I can't seem to get it less than that but also, I haven't had much time invested lately. I read the most that can be shaved off is a little less than .02"... I'm unsure how accurate these numbers are as I read them throughout different forums but I would guess I've taken about .01" off. Does anyone have the official numbers on resurfacing the head? and Block?
With being at this point and deciding to give the head a break, I started replacing those parts I mentioned above and noticed the block is aluminum too. Now I am worried. I looked into it and read the only part of the block not aluminum are the sleeves. At a glance, I can't see any spacing between the sleeves and block but how likely would they have separated due to overheating? I haven't measured for flatness on the deck and did not do so initially as I was assuming the block would have been a different material (not feasible to warp compared to aluminum head).
I have looked into different approaches and if things did not go well with the head itself and the glass/paper method. I have found a few on junkyard sites for $300 (6 month warrantee). Doesn't seem too bad but I have been wondering on why the head would be separated from the block at a junkyard for resell. And even if that went well, the block is aluminum. I've found a few junk yard engines for about $2K for a 1 year warrantee. I'm unsure what to do next. I would love to just continue on with getting the head to spec and measure the deck and it be good but I am honestly just worried.

 

Also if I do stay the current course, can i get a recommendation on tooling to test compression... i dont want to blow anything up if something is wrong.

 

So... I got caught by the rain outside but I was able to get a little work done. Replaced a couple hoses, temp sensor, thermostat. I started to clean the deck, pistons, etc. I noticed dents on the pistons from all the intake valves and I would say by the look of things, a large circular pattern on the deck would suggest the block has been resurfaced previously. I measured for flatness and it appears to be good. I'll measure better tomorrow morning. Before heading inside from the rain, I grabbed the head gasket I pulled off during disassembly and it is an MLS. Stock head gaskets are single layer, correct? I would think the chances that the head/block have been through this once before are high. I'm just unsure if it did occur once already, how much material was removed on both surfaces. Any suggestions?