Hey everyone,

The belt tore on my wife's 2005 2.4i S40 and got "eaten" by the crankshaft pulley. It wound up all the metal strands under itself and prevents the motor from operating. I pulled lots of them out, still not enough. I am now going to do a timing belt replacement and maybe even the front seal while I'm there, because I have to remove the crankshaft pulley in order to completely clean the belt debris.

Its been a fairly absurd situation so far, usually torn belts just wind up laying in pieces somewhere in the engine bay. Wondering if anyone has had this happen before?

Overall this motor is just odd, seems to have been designed as an afterthought.

 

I have seen it a bunch of times. Usually when that happens it jumps time and bends valves.
You can install the new belt and do a compression test and go from there.

 

Ouch, thats sad to hear. Then perhaps that's why it wont start, because I really think that I got all of the strands out, but I won't know for sure until I remove the pulley this weekend. Belt had maybe 6-8k on it.

Perhaps I'll research a T5 swap as long as I'm facing this much work.

 

The T5 swap not sure if anyone has done one yet due to the computer issues.

 

Interesting, intuitively id think that an ecu/tcu swap would cover everything, but I don't know the car well enough yet. This does explain why I didn't find any threads on doing a swap.

 

The ECU's are married to the cars. The car runs on a network.

Yes a Turbo or manual swap it known on the older 850's and 98 S70. But not much from there till present.

 

This is the first time (in the long time) I hear of the belt failing in 6-8k. I've had belt going long after few ks, but braking.... What brand was it? & why did you replace it in the first place?

 

I was very sure that I bought it online, but I can't find it in my purchase records, so perhaps that was a mistake. As it stands, I can't remember the make, but I might be able to figure it out from the remaining alternator belt, because they should be the same brand... that one is fairly worn too, but perhaps what I see on it is just damage from the nearby belt as it was being destroyed.

I replaced them originally because the old ones were noisy, looked worn, and there was no record available of when they were last replaced. Once this is all fixed, all 3 belts will be Contitech, which I've been impressed with when using on my MB.

 

I removed the crank pulley today, there was no more belt material under it. FYI, I rented the smaller pulley puller from autozone and it worked great, I was quoted 200+ for the Volvo tool, which is just a drilled plate with a screw.

It does seem that the cams went a bit ahead of the crank in timing, but they didn't jump with respect to each other.

I've got a few questions that I'll be researching online and in VADIS, but if anyone knows the answers please post:
- What specific part of the crank pulley is the marker? There is a "M" stamped into it, and a bit to the left of it there is an actual notch. In addition to both of those there is also the flat part of the crank which is used to align it when putting it back.

- What are the TDC positions for each cylinder? I'm going to test for bent valves by putting in compressed air.

 

The notch on the pulley lines up with a line on the oil pump.
I would put a belt on and do a compression test.

 

these, right?

 

Yes..

 

Agreed yes those are the marks.

 

All cylinders are bad except for #2. Considering the cost of parts needed to swap the head, new valves, new bolts, and machine shop labor, I might just opt for a used motor.

angry/upset rant: If there are any redeeming qualities to this car, I haven't found them; German costs with American build quality.

 

Let us know what you decide.
I think it still might be cheaper to do the head over the motor.
But atleast pull the head when you can. That will also make sure the valves did not snap and dig into the pistons.

 

Removed the head yesterday. Not sure why I got good compression on #2, they all look bad. I had never seen bent valves before, so I didn't quite know what to expect. They looked well-seated until I slipped a feeler gauge past them and it all became obvious. The entire intake side is bent.

Right now I'm just planning to swap the valves myself, it's not something I've worked on before, but YouTube makes it look straightforward.

 

Let us know how it goes. When you're putting it all back together be sure to check your alternator clutch pulley as this is probably the cause of your shredded serpentine belt.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it. About a year ago I did the shim fix on that clutch because it stopped engaging, that only moves it slightly to the inside, but perhaps that was enough to misalign the belt?

 

That was the A/C compressor clutch. I'm talking about the alternator clutch pulley. You didn't even know you had one. Most people don't and they can be engine destroyers.

 

But the alternator pulley on this motor is driven by a belt that comes off from the a/c pulley, and that one wasn't torn. Also, the alternator pulley on this car isn't clutched, that's a rare feature and I think its only on cars that have engines designed for instant start/stop.