2015 V60 PCV Replacement Questions
 

Hey Guys, I've been absent a while.
Got our first CEL yesterday on my wife's 2015 V60 2.0L.
It starts and runs. High pitched almost belt noise, and idles too high (2000 rpm) with some hunting here and there.
A little shudder when turning off.
To me, it felt like the old days with our XC70 and it's PCV issues.

I did not pull any codes here, but we took it to any indy here in town, and they confirmed PCV and found error codes on thermostat heather as well.
Codes: ECM-059700 thermostat heater, ECM-P050700 idle air sys higher, and ECM-P017100 too lean bank 1.

I balked at the estimate for trap replacement and thermostat housing, $1100.00.

The car is now at home.
I guess my first question is this: Is this going to be a different animal than the XC70?
I did the PCV twice myself on that wagon, the second time including the oil pan off to degunk the whole thing.
For the cost above, I was going to take a shot at it here.

Second question: is there a direct relationship to thermostat failure and PCV, or is that an incidental finding.
Part of the shop's speech to discourage any shade-tree activity was that the thermostat housing takes three shop hours to get to. I'm also looking for an opinion on that, in terms of difficulty.

Appreciate your thoughts.
Dave

Not sure if anyone is following but the trap is a lot easier then the older xc70 design.
It is literally right under the insulated engine cover.
In my situation, I also had error codes for the thermostat assembly, so I had to continue on and remove the intake manifold. But even that seemed straightforward. I would say 45 min, and that was without a walk through guide. Pffft.
Not getting cocky yet. But simply, it did not fit the shop’s narrative.

Soooo. We are good. Running well with no warning lights.

Interesting follow up (at least to me), the first time I buttoned everything up it ran really poorly, same error codes and even the DTSC failure light came on?
I went back and looked at my work and I could see the O-ring from the throttle body poking out, seated incorrectly.
I guess I was surprised a vac leak would essentially cause so much trouble with the engine management.
I miss the old days, my 928 had half the vacc lines disconnected by rodents and she didn't even complain about it':0
Anyway, I redid the manifold and throttle body placement and added new o ring.

At this point, it ran well -- but would still throw a PO171 code when driving....
So then I pull out the MAF sensor and clean it, thinking I will try this before I give up. Then no codes after that. Strange.

Been following along, glad to hear everything resolved. One thing to note about that lean code is it'll take some driving before the fuel trims reset so it's not uncommon for it to "stick" even after the problem is solved for a bit. Was nice hearing how easy the manifold is to get through too. Keep the thread updated if anything changes!

Hey, that makes sense, thank you. And thanks for following my disjointed mess of a thread!

Yeah, the intake was six 10mm bolts.
It took longer to move the harness out of the way then anything else.

The thermostat was also easy. Four screws, two hoses with reusable connectors.

Same thing just happened to me
 

Our 2015 V60 T5 2L just started making that sound today and threw a CEL at us. Luckily, happened while we were driving home from vacation, the last 30 miles. First it was the noise from under the hood, then the CEL came on when we were literally 2 miles from home.

I just had it in the shop for the big 75,000 mile check up, even though it's only got 66K on it.

I am not handy with cars, so I'm worried about trying to do the fix mentioned in this thread with almost no experience.

My questions:

1) Do I try to drive it to the Volvo dealer where I had the big workup 2 weeks ago? It's about 6 miles from my house.
2) If I get it to the dealer, do I raise hell and act like it's their fault for missing this? Or is this something that happens and I have to eat the cost?

Like I said, it was in the shop 2 weeks ago and got clean bill of health. We drove 150 miles for a week's vacation, during which we drove it maybe 10-15 miles per day (hot summer weather throughout). Last night, huge rain storms. This morning, drove 2/3rds way back through light rain most of the time, and no problems. Stopped for gas and driver switch, and it was after that ... within a few miles ... that we began hearing the noise. I thought it was a fan noise or belt noise and didn't think much of it, until we got into city traffic and I could hear just how loud it was ... and right after that the CEL came on.

I guess my final question is ... is a novice like me able to do the repair described here?

Thanks much.

rw

No, don't raise hell. There is no way of predicting this would fail.

Replacement is very easy though.