Hello and thanks for letting me join! I've never worked on a Volvo but here goes. My Pastor took his 2017 S60 in to have the oil changed and once the task was completed they couldn't get it to start, " It just clicks" He asked me about it as now they want to replace the starter motor for only $1300. They also told him something about resetting the oil change light with the car not running could have done something. He is having it towed to my place/shop where I can attempt to fix it. I'm guessing its a poor ground connection, blown main fuse or maybe it is the starter but I believe $1300 is unreasonable. Any advice given would be greatly appreciated! I've watched the Youtube videos concerning starter replacement and it doesn't look to be an unusual job.

 

Sounds like they touched something they shouldn't have during an oil change! I would get the car scanned with a good scanner that can communicate to all the modules and check for any open circuit codes. IF the no start was due to the service reminder (which I am 99.9% sure it doesn't) it is very easy to reset. Plenty of youtube videos there. You also CAN'T reset the service light with the car running. That shop has no clue what they are doing...

 

I have an Innova 5810 scanner. I’ll perform a scan before anything else. Thanks so much!

 

I would say to check the starter wiring and relay to make sure it is operating correctly as well, but I am not sure if the push button start affects the ability to jump the relay. I know you can jump it on the older cars, but my experience with the newer technology is limited.

 

No codes per the scan but the battery is down. Guess they ran it down trying to start it. Also, from the appearance of the starter, they hammered on it with something. I'm going to charge the battery and begin checking the cables. I had a helper attempt to start the car while I held a long screwdriver against the starter/solenoid. I can definitely tell the solenoid is working so I guess I can assume the control circuit is working. Just need to check if it is passing current to the motor. First I checked the big fuse at the positive battery connection and found it blown. Measured for continuity to see if the cable is grounded and it is not. So...should I just replace the fuse and see if it starts and where do I get this fuse? I also need to check if this cable to the starter goes to ground when the solenoid is engaged indicating a bad starter. Otherwise, I am thinking the shop shorted the circuit when they changed oil.

 

I measured resistance through the starter motor with the solenoid engaged and got 4.5 - 5 meg ohms so I'm thinking the starter is probably bad?

 

I am not sure on resistance for the starter motor, I always checked voltage to certain wires to make sure they were getting power at the correct times. They probably beat on the starter with a hammer to see if it will go. Old trick that works sometimes.

That fuse definitely looks like it needs replacing. Did you charge the battery up and try to start it after? From the pic I cant tell what that fuse is for, looks like a battery fuse to me. You can try searching the number thats on it 7225-9177-30

I know a lot more about P2 volvos than the P3

 

I'm having trouble finding a replacement fuse or fusible link. This thing has 350 amps marked on it. P/N 7225-9177-30 is correct. I'm guessing it is a dealer item. I don't want to just replace the fuse and try it as I believe the starter is bad and I don't want to blow a new fuse $$. Thank you for your help!

 

It probably will be a dealer item, I couldn't find it either besides 1 used one on ebay. 350A is a lot to blow. Maybe a loose ground that was arcing caused that?

Might be better to wait for one of the smarter guys like hoonk or mt6127 to reply with better info. They know a lot more than I as they are actual mechanics and I just fix my cars that break all the time lol.

 

Yep, dealer item. $125. Gonna get it in two or three days.

 

Picture does not show but I assume that fuse unit is what goes on the positive post of the battery.
Test the starter by bypassing the fuse with a jumper cable from the positive post to the starter cable. Take as if something blew a 350 amp fuse you could start melting things if you don't watch out.
A cheaper thinner boost cable could be used, hook it up and feel it to see if it gets hot before trying the starter, this would show a high current draw and let you to unhook and investigate. No heat build up then try the starter. Once again watch for heat build up in the cable (helper to try starting the car or feeling the cable may wise).
If the starter works and starts the engine normally then they touched something that made the fuse blow, if not then........

 

Yes, it fits onto the positive post. The assembly also includes a 5 amp fuse holder and wire going somewhere else, maybe the helper battery. The fuses are integral to the assembly and cannot be replaced separately. I bypassed the fuse and measured resistance through the starter with the solenoid engaged, thus measuring through the windings of the starter, and got a reading of 4.5 to 5 meg ohms or almost infinite resistance. So...I am concluding the starter is bad and now I'm just waiting on the parts to arrive. I will measure resistance of the cable when I disconnect it to replace the starter. Pics are of the cable/fusible link assy. Thanks so much for your input. I hope someone else can benefit from this thread. Another reason I'm replacing the starter is that it has suffered a significant beating to the point, I believe, it is inoperable.

 

Got the starter removed, not fun. Received the fusible link cable this morning and now waiting on the starter. This can be performed from the top but it is very difficult. There is a small bolt holding the back end of the starter to a bracket. 8mm hex head that seemed to be about a mile long. The pic illustrates the evidence of heavy hammer contact.

 

Help! Starter replaced, fusible link replaced. Upon attempting start, it turned over briefly stopped and started smoking from the starter. Checked cables again, almost zero resistance through cables. Attempted a couple more times, same thing until the fuse blew again. Put the car on the lift to see if anything was grounded and I didn't see anything apparent. Thought maybe they ran a screw into a cable when they reinstalled the belly pan. Now I'm thinking something major is wrong with the motor. Tested the old starter with a spare battery and it runs but very roughly.

 

Something electronically is definitely not right. The motor can be running rough because of the electrical issue, not providing plugs with enough voltage for proper spark, etc. Also, I assume you don't know how well it ran prior to the oil change. Something is overloading the circuit, and it seems like the only solution is to get your magnifying glass and do some investigating. Try and find frayed cables, loose ground or something of that nature. Wish I could help more.

 

The owner said it was running well when he took it in for the oil change, no issues. I've gone over the cables several times. When it did turn over, it was long enough to start so I really don't know how well it runs.

 

I looked online a little, can you check the VIN for recalls? Apparently there was a recall for this MY V60 for the starter motor fuse.. Apparently they just increased the amperage on it. Worth checking out. I attached a link below, lower amps than what is marked on your fusible link, but still work checking out.

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/w...ailure.609473/

 

The fusible links on this vehicle are rated at 350 amps, that is what they are marked anyway.

 

The cable in the center of this pic connects to the case ground, small terminal, of the starter. As pictured, disconnected from the starter, it is open to ground. Is that normal?

 

The starter is supposed to be grounded. You are saying it is disconnected? Could be why that fuse link is overloading. Starters use a lot of juice.

Was that disconnected already when you took the old starter out?