Brake Booster replacement
#42
Hey, everybody. First post (I'm a Mazda guy). My wife drives a 2004 S60 and I'm curious if her brake booster may need replacing. I haven't noted any hissing (I'll check for it). We have a steep driveway, and if you start the car, put it in reverse and start to back down the driveway, it seems to require excessive pressure on the pedal to stop the car. Conversely, if you start the car, apply the brake for a moment, then put it in gear, the brake seems strong. Otherwise, the brakes seem fine. I've bled the brakes; the pedal doesn't seem soft as if there is air in the lines, it just seems to require more travel temporarily. Thoughts?
#44
Thanks for the guide tech, got rid of my hissing booster.. picked up a used booster from a 04 model for $65.
I wish the instructions were a little more detailed on the part where you have to remove the air intake box and when you remove the plug from the ABS unit.
I broke 2 of 3 of the plastic latches on my air box trying to remove it. I used a 8mm socket to push on the plastic locks that hold in the airbox. Only had to release the one near the fender, the other 2 slide out, this is when I broke my latches so be carefule sliding it out. (didnt need to remove the pipe from the turbo, just loosened the clamp a bit with a 6mm socket and twisted it out of the way)
I broke the plastic lock that hold the ABS motor plug. The cover flips up and releases the whole harness.
I've got it all back together somehow and I'm glad that hissing noise it gone Also brakes are a lot more responsive and grab a lot higher up the pedal travel.
You adjust the brake light switch by pulling on the white thing and it click-locks like a ziptie.
I wish the instructions were a little more detailed on the part where you have to remove the air intake box and when you remove the plug from the ABS unit.
I broke 2 of 3 of the plastic latches on my air box trying to remove it. I used a 8mm socket to push on the plastic locks that hold in the airbox. Only had to release the one near the fender, the other 2 slide out, this is when I broke my latches so be carefule sliding it out. (didnt need to remove the pipe from the turbo, just loosened the clamp a bit with a 6mm socket and twisted it out of the way)
I broke the plastic lock that hold the ABS motor plug. The cover flips up and releases the whole harness.
I've got it all back together somehow and I'm glad that hissing noise it gone Also brakes are a lot more responsive and grab a lot higher up the pedal travel.
You adjust the brake light switch by pulling on the white thing and it click-locks like a ziptie.
Last edited by Racer_S; 03-20-2011 at 03:05 PM.
#48
I just replaced my brake booster after having a hissing noise for over several months. Prior to replacing the brakes worked fine although I am going on a road trip and I was worried of a vacuum leak on my trip so I replaced it. After doing the replacement my power brakes don't seem to be working. I believe all lines were hooked back up correctly although I cannot figure why my power brakes are not working. Any ideas as to what I can do to test for the problem? Need a fast response.
#49
OK! I figured it out! There was a small o-ring on one of the electrical hookups that goes into the booster. I had to take the hookup from the old booster and pop it into the new booster but I left the o-ring off. I found it in the old booster and put it into the new booster and it fixed the problem.
#50
Just a thought for you all.
My S60 is right hand drive. This means the booster is on the right side - so it is not able to be removed without first lowering the engine/transmission a few inches.
I have a Haynes manual which describes how to do this. Havn't tried it yet, but I need to soon.
The booster started hissing inside the car when applying the brakes.
At first it did not seem to affect the brakes, but now it does. Pedal pressure is higher and travel a lot further. It also seems to be affecting the engine idle speed - so it must be sucking air in to the inlet manifold.
Have checked prices of boosters - not sure which one I need, but as I have a 2001 model, I don't think its got the later options.
Will report back when I have managed to extract it. I believe the original unit can be rebuilt here, and it still meets the required standards.
Cheers.
My S60 is right hand drive. This means the booster is on the right side - so it is not able to be removed without first lowering the engine/transmission a few inches.
I have a Haynes manual which describes how to do this. Havn't tried it yet, but I need to soon.
The booster started hissing inside the car when applying the brakes.
At first it did not seem to affect the brakes, but now it does. Pedal pressure is higher and travel a lot further. It also seems to be affecting the engine idle speed - so it must be sucking air in to the inlet manifold.
Have checked prices of boosters - not sure which one I need, but as I have a 2001 model, I don't think its got the later options.
Will report back when I have managed to extract it. I believe the original unit can be rebuilt here, and it still meets the required standards.
Cheers.
#51
Thanks for this write up Tech.
Your directions were easy to follow for my limited mechanics skills, and saved me a few hundred dollars over going to the dealership.
As others have mentioned, I had to loosen and twist the turbo inlet pipe a little in order to get the space needed to wiggle the booster out.
Your directions were easy to follow for my limited mechanics skills, and saved me a few hundred dollars over going to the dealership.
As others have mentioned, I had to loosen and twist the turbo inlet pipe a little in order to get the space needed to wiggle the booster out.
#52
#54
#55
Hi tech, great instructions. My wife's 2002 V70 AWD XC has been singing w/a vacuum leak for a couple of months when the brake pedal is released. Looks like this is exactly what I need to do real soon, really annoys her. Looks pretty straight forward, I just had one question. The way I'm reading this, you are not disconnecting any of the brake hydraulic lines, so there should be no need to bleed the brakes after installing. Is that correct? If not, then bleeding the brakes seems to be the worst part of the job, is there an easy way of doing that?
An aside: Your advise on using the same style bulb base in the brake lights is great, seems I'm always getting a bulb fault message when there isn't a fault.
An aside: Your advise on using the same style bulb base in the brake lights is great, seems I'm always getting a bulb fault message when there isn't a fault.
#56
jcp.
You are correct in your assumption. Following Tech's method, there is no disturbance to the fluid side of the brake system.
Most of the considerations are to avoid damaging any of the other devices that need to be disturbed to get the booster out.
To anyone else with booster issues - it is worth knowing that your brakes will still work if you push the pedal hard enough. The booster simply reduces the amount of pedal pressure required.
How spoiled we are..
You are correct in your assumption. Following Tech's method, there is no disturbance to the fluid side of the brake system.
Most of the considerations are to avoid damaging any of the other devices that need to be disturbed to get the booster out.
To anyone else with booster issues - it is worth knowing that your brakes will still work if you push the pedal hard enough. The booster simply reduces the amount of pedal pressure required.
How spoiled we are..
#57
#59
I need to replace my brake booster (2003 S60 with 70K). I looked at the inside diaphram portion of the booster and noticed oil on it. Does this mean that there is another part that needs to be replaced that blocks oil from entering the booster ( some type of check valve)? I dont think it is brake fluid i am seeing. If it is I gusee I need a new MAster also.
#60
I need to replace my brake booster (2003 S60 with 70K). I looked at the inside diaphram portion of the booster and noticed oil on it. Does this mean that there is another part that needs to be replaced that blocks oil from entering the booster ( some type of check valve)? I dont think it is brake fluid i am seeing. If it is I gusee I need a new MAster also.
Might just be condensation?
Has the brake fluid reservoir gotten lower?
-Ryan