Reservoir is a little lower than when I had the brake fluid replaced a year ago but I thought that was just the pads getting worn down. I spoke to someone at IPDUSA and now I think it is brake fluid. I bought an ATE booster that I was going to do myself but if I need a new Master I am going to have to take it somewhere. Does it take special tools or computer disengaging software to bleed s60 brakes? Or can I take it to my local shop mechanic for this type of job?

 

ATE booster and ATE Master to not seat perfectly flush. If I push Master onto the Booster there is a VERY SLIGHT spring type resistance for the last 1/8 inch or so. I was worried that this would translate into permanently applied brakes. The old Master seats flush to the new Booster. Went to a Volvo dealer and asked to see the parts combination. They brought out the same ATE parts that I had with me and theirs did not seat flush either. They brought in a Volvo Tec and he said the not seating flush was not a problem. When I asked why the old one seated flush he did not know why but said it should be OK to go with the new combo. Stopped at a local volvo specialty shop and asked one of their 35 year veterans and he said dont put them in if they are not perfectly flush. Now I have my car apart and am thoroughly confused. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS ISSUE? PLEASE HELP. I need to get to work on Monday. Actually I have another car but thought I would be dramatic.

 

OK - So I have concluded that nobody has ever done a combination replacement of the Booster and the Master on an S60. Wild assuption but here are the facts,
1. ATE parts I purchased are verified as being the proper parts and they dont seat flush.
2. Went to volvo dealer parts and examined their parts. They dont fit flush either.
3. New ATE Master seats flush with old original volvo booster.
4. New ATE Booster seats flush with old original volvo Master.

Only conclusion is-
1. Somehow the combo works while pushrod is partially engaged?
2. SInce replacing a single part works in both combinations the tolerances are just slightly off and nobody has found the issue yet because I am the first one in the entire world to try a combo swap. ( dont really believe that)

MAybe shops are using spacers and we have lots of vacum leaks being caused or there are lots of people with very hot rotors causing rotors to wear, say every other pad change? I think we all have this issue.

ANy input would be appreciated--

 

An easy test would be to put the master on the booster, put a brake bleeder on the reservoir and see if you can push fluid out (blowing through the master would be similar). If yes, then the MC is not engaging the brakes.

It's possible that the springs in the new MC are a little too springy...

-Ryan

-Ryan

 

I need a new brake booster for my 2003 volvo S60. My car has STC - do I need the one with DSTC or not? How do I know which one to get as my shop won't give me that info. Also, they want to charge me to replace the sensor - does this part need replaced as well ? They want over $2000 to do the job - I feel like I'm being ripped off.

Cori

 

Ripped off. I think a Volvo dealership will do this job for $1200, per the quote a friend got from Volvo for an '03 XC-90. Booster can be had from Volvo for $400.... much cheaper aftermarket. There's a "pedal position sensor" which is reused. Not failure prone, and easy (5 minutes) to replace with the booster in the car, so replacement is foolish. Aside from that, nothing else on the booster is replaceable.

A shop that won't give you the pertinent information is a shop to avoid.

-Ryan

 

Thanks ... it was a Volvo dealership that quoted me that price ! The booster itself is $925.75 through them. is a refurbished one any good ?

 

Cori
Its a sad fact that European car dealerships have done more to ruin the reputation of these cars than any other factor.
The Volvo S60 is very easy to work on compared to most current Japanese cars, but because it appears to be an exclusive "type", we get penalised if we don't show that we know such things.
FCP Groton are a great source of reasonably priced parts and are represented on this site - use their knowledge and do as much as you can yourself so you reduce the amount that the dealership needs to do on your behalf.
The brake booster responds perfectly well to being overhauled. The technical bits (STC) are usually not the problem - just the mechanics of power assisted braking.
Age related failures are simply that.
Get your booster rebuilt and continue to enjoy your Volvo.
Cheers.

 

I replaced mine two years ago and it took me 4 or 5 hours. I had never done it and followed the techs advice on this thread from back then. The instructions were dead on. I purchased the part from international auto for under $400. The four 13mm bolts are way too long in my opinion so you will need a deep socket. Be careful not to disturb the lines to the master cylinder and you will be fine. Go for it.

 

Bought mine from FCP a few weeks ago for about $350 . Volvo wants 600 +. It is the Same ATE part from FCP as Volvo sells. They know which one is needed for STC. It is not the one for DSTC. If it is just the booster I would do it yourself if you are at all mechanically inclined. I thought i needed a new master so I took it to someone to do. Their charge was about $380 to install both. But then I had the issues from my previous logs in this thread. ended up not needing a new master so they just replaced the booster. The booster is easy since you dont have to bleed the brakes.

 

After some quick shopping around I've found a brake boosters for low 100's at partsTrain.com amongst other websites: Here is the listing
A1 Cardone Brake Booster
For 2003 Volvo S60 Base 5 Cyl 2.4L
Just curious, will this suffice or do I need to get OES?

 

That's cool.

My pedal has been pretty gloomy for a while now.

Cheers.

 

Thanks to the great info on the boards here, I was able to replace the booster for about $100. I was able to get a used one from a recycler.

A few thing I would like to add that I came across during the repair. If you have electric seats, make sure the drivers seat is all the way back. I followed the instructions at the start of this post. By the time I went inside to remove the 4 nuts retaining the booster under the dash, I realized I could have benefited with a little extra room with the seat pushed back.

Secondly, an assortment of socket extensions and universals will surely make this job a little easier.

 

I had same problem and it is the brake booster, to make sure take a pair of long nose plyers and squeese the vacuum hose on the booster and it will stop your noise.

 

Hi everyone,

I'm Javier from Spain, pleased to meet you guys.
I wanted to thank TECH for the instructions to replace the brake booster, he has saved me some hours of work.
My car is an S60 with DSTC and the booster is very expesive.
I had my booster broken because of a leak in the master cylinder that i didn't take care of. When i got the brake fluid message i filled the resevoir until the booster broke finally. Now i've have to spend a lot of money and i could have solved it earlier with a simple gasket.
I think the safiest thing is to replace the master and the booster, any sugestions?
Thanks again

 

I'm having some trouble to take out the booster, i've been trying all forms but it whon't slide off.
Mine is a 2005 D5 170hp with DSTC and LHD and i've removed de ABS unit completely with the braket and the turbo hose to see if can get more space but i doesn't want to come out it allways get blocked by the engine or the body.
Maybe i have to drop the engine a little?
Any sugestion?
Many thanks

 

It's solved !!
The reason was a new coolant pipe near the fuel pump, this pipe has changed
from the first D5 version and it need to be taken apart so that the booster can come out.
The new pipe starts at the thermostat housing and ends in the turbo, just loose the flanges near to the turbo oulet and disconect the lines and now the booser will come out easily.

Now it's done. It was all about patience.
Thanks guys.

 

I have a 2001 S60, nonturbo with an automatic. I followed Tech's instructions to the letter with no issues during replacement. Upon starting the car I have several issues:
1. I cannot get the brake light switch to adjust.
2. ABS, Traction Control, and Brake lights are on.
3. Information display says "Brake System Failure".
4. Went for a test drive to check booster-seems fine-went around the block, upon returning at home, the speedometer zeroed out and felt as if in neutral. Revved to 3500 RPM to get in garage.

Please help-what could I have possibly screwed up? I am fairly mechanical and have never had an issue like this!

 

Hi tylerddean,
It's too obvious but please check all the electric contacts are ok. The problem is at the ABS/TCS module.
Check all pins for sulphur they fail some times. Also try to knock with a plastic hammer carefully to the abs electronic unit, may a valve has got blocked and needs some help.
If this does not help get a tester and i will tell you what's the problem.
Cheers

 

Hey I had the brake booster replaced yesterday by my trusted mechanic but he thinks we got a defected booster from ATE because there is noticeably more force needed when pressing the brakes in order to stop the car almost as if it doesn't have any assistance. I bought the new booster from fcp euro with stc which is my model. Did he miss a step or something. Should I return it? Help is greatly appreciated asap thank you