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Need guidance: 2001 S60 T5 Auto
Hello all!
I just purchased a 2001 S60 T5 Auto with 141k miles to be used as family car… likely to become my 15yr daughter's first car in the future. I am not new to getting my hands dirty with DIY projects. I drive a modified BMW 335i and maintain it myself so I'd like to do the same with the Volvo. I've spent some time reading various threads and believe I have a good grasp on what to do but seek guidance. I humbly ask that you take a look below at the current situation and my planned repairs. Please share anything else you feel is critical to review or repair. Thank you so much for your time! Current Situation: Problem: Car idle stumbles moderately 5-800rpm. When driving, feel slight surges even when maintaining same pressure on accelerator. Inspection: Performed dipstick & glove PCV test. No issues. Current ETM #65cfm2/ah.0002030.m (I believe white sticker) Previous Major work: Miles/Work: 140K: New Coils, Spark Plugs, Oil, Oil Filter 118K: Oil, Oil Filter, Cabin Filter, Spark Plugs, Upper Engine Mount, Fuel Pump per Recall. Left Axle seal 85K: Replaced Transmission through Volvo warranty. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Planned Repairs: -Perform ETM cleaning and replace gasket. -Replace timing belt and water pump. (FCP) -Replace serpentine belt. (Which?) -Replace torn upper engine mount. (Which?) -Replace Transmission fluid: Aisin jws3309 -What else engine wise? |
for the bumpy idle, I'd start by checking for vacuum leaks, any stored codes etc then I'd check the idle air valve for cleanliness and the MAF (part of your ETM project?). Do you know when the timing belt was done? Look to see if there's any stickers or writing indicating just to be sure. Not sure if the 2001s are 100K or 70K.
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Originally Posted by mt6127
(Post 422798)
for the bumpy idle, I'd start by checking for vacuum leaks, any stored codes etc then I'd check the idle air valve for cleanliness and the MAF (part of your ETM project?). Do you know when the timing belt was done? Look to see if there's any stickers or writing indicating just to be sure. Not sure if the 2001s are 100K or 70K.
No stored codes using both the steering wheel stalk and my OBDII scanner. I don't see any evidence of either belt ever being replaced and they both look worn. :0 First owner was meticulous and kept every record. Sold car just after paying $2500 in labor for new transmission. Probably bitter about that. Second owner was retired couple who spent $980 on plugs and coils before selling to me. Think they were put off by the cost and the stumbling idle. |
Might seem too simple but have you shot a couple of bottles of Techron or Seafoam. over a couple of tanks of gas.
It's a simple start. |
Originally Posted by mt6127
(Post 422798)
for the bumpy idle, I'd start by checking for vacuum leaks, any stored codes etc then I'd check the idle air valve for cleanliness and the MAF (part of your ETM project?). Do you know when the timing belt was done? Look to see if there's any stickers or writing indicating just to be sure. Not sure if the 2001s are 100K or 70K.
Originally Posted by pjsmithres
(Post 422807)
Might seem too simple but have you shot a couple of bottles of Techron or Seafoam. over a couple of tanks of gas.
It's a simple start. Do either of you have suggestions for the Engine Mount or Serpentine belt kit? |
There is no idle air control valve. I would agree with your plan to clean the throttle to start.
That timing belt kit is a little excessive unless you are planning to replace the cam seals for no reason. Make sure you have the special tools to hold the cams (or make one). Also make sure you have the procedure for setting up the CVVT hub. It also comes with a $50 Graf water pump- never used that and I tend to avoid aftermarket water pumps after I saw one come apart within 1000 miles and throw the timing belt. Not sure what brand that one was. |
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