S60 Front Hub and/or Axle Replacement (Worthy of a sticky?)
 

I just finished replacing the unit hub bearings and axle half-shafts on my '01 S60 T5 and was asked for a step-by-step procedure.

Maybe this procedure would be useful for other Forum Members.
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Piece of cake, really.

1) With weight on wheels, Loosen lug bolts 1/4 turn, remove wheel center cap, and loosen axle retaining bolt.
2) Jack vehicle under center front cross member, and place a jackstand under each side.
3) Remove wheel/tire assembly.
4) Remove Axle retaining bolt.
5) Compress brake caliper piston 1/8" and remove brake caliper assembly and suspend from spring w/ a stiff wire.
6) Remove rotor retaining bolt and remove rotor, and brake backing plate.
7) Remove ABS sensor from steering knuckle and secure out-of-the-way.
8) Using a socket and dead-blow hammer, tap axle inward as far as possible.
9) Mark outline of the upper bolt on the aluminum knuckle (it is slightly elongated for camber adjustment), then remove both bolts retaining strut to steering knuckle, and pull knuckle outward off strut.
10) Pull steering knuckle as far outward as possible while pushing outer axle inward out of hub bearing. There is plenty of room for the axle splines to clear the knuckle by maneuvering the knuckle at an angle.
11a) RT axle: Remove two bolts securing the axle bearing retaining clamp, then pull axle free of the transaxle, being careful not to damage transaxle seal.
11b) LT axle: Using pry bar, apply pressure to "pop" the axle free of the transaxle. There is an internal "C" clip that retains it in the transaxle. Then withdraw axle from the transaxle, being careful not to damage seal.

Note: There is a dust seal between the outer CV joint and the unit hub bearing that should be removed and inspected prior to re-use. Note orientation on removal so it can be correctly re-installed.

Replacement is the reverse of removal, using blue thread locking compound on all of the fasteners. Apply grease to axle splines and left axle retaining clip prior to installation.

Note: If you wish to replace unit hub bearings at the same time (which for $90 per side I recommend if you have 100k+ miles on the bearing), remove the 4 bolts retaining each hub to the steering knuckle (preferably with an impact wrench as you don't want to "tweak" the ball joints or the tie rod end joints by applying torque on the bolts), and install new hub bearings prior to re-assembly of axles.

Hope that helps!

Bob

Thanks!
 

Awesome guide. I am glad to know it can be done without removing the struts.

Thread is now a sticky!

I would do step 11b before step 9.
Actually step 9 should be replaced with "undo the ball joint nut and seperate the ball joint and lower control arm."
This way you don't require an alignment after the job is finished.

The way I did/outlined the job NO alignment is required afterward, either.

Step 9 instructs to carefully mark the position of the strut on the spindle/knuckle assembly before removing the 2 retaining bolts, so it can be reassembled precisely the way it was before disassembly by simply aligning the witness marks.

Of course, you are free to do the job any way you please, if you prefer to separate the ball joint. Personally, I found that my ball joints didn't want to come free easily, and rather than risk damage to anything (necessitating possible parts replacement), took the other route.

Bob

do you have a parts list with the correct numbers?

No. I just ordered the hubs from FCP Groton by model and year, and obtained rebuilt half-shafts locally from O'Reileys Auto Parts, also based on model and year.

I had reservations about trusting the O'Reiley shafts (at only $56 each exchange), but I felt at least doing it that way I could compare and measure before accepting them, So far, they've been just fine, too.

The hub bearings from FCP were the cheaper non-OEM ones they sell, again at 1/2 the price of the OEM units they also sell. Again, I am not sure that they will last as well as OEM, but they are SO easy to change, I figured it was worth the gamble.

The total cost for both halfshafts and bearings was about $300. You are supposed to install new bearing retaining bolts when installing new bearings, but given that the installed torque is so much less than that which would result in "stretch", and because mine had zero corrosion when removed, I elected to re-use my old ones. The half-shafts come with new axle retaining bolts that secure the axles to the hubs themselves. I feel confident that my old bolts were fine, but that's a personal decision.

I neglected to mention using Blue Lock-Tite on the threads of the fasteners, BTW. I've edited the procedure to include that.

Bob
I might mention that I also ordered a box of a dozen oil filters for my car from FCP ($36) at the same time to qualify for free shipping. If your car is still under warranty, you may choose to use OEM filters to maintain coverage. FCP says their bulk-filter packs contain only filters that meet or exceed OEM, but your Volvo dealer may feel different should an engine warranty claim be submitted.

Your tutorial makes it sound like the average weekend-warrior shadetree mechanic like myself could swap out the hubs with just an ordinary set of tools -- would you say that is correct? Not doing the axles, just the hubs (at this point . . . ). What is the time required in taking off/replacing both front hubs?

Thanks.

It's easy enough. Depending on your mechanical ability and amount of cleaning before re-install, no more than 1hr/side.

I recently totalled my s60 , but i did replace both axles before it got smashed. It was fairly easy, but I found it necessary to disconnect the balljoint from the control arm. I was not able to get the axles in or out with them connected I am not a mechanic, but I have replaced every part of the s60 suspension. Disconnecting the strut may have worked instead.

I was very happy with new control arms, the bushings were more beat up than I thought.

Yes-Disconnecting the strut does work, but remember that one of the holes is slotted, and serves as the camber adjustment, so use a pick or awl and trace around the current position so that when re-bolting it tight, you have the same camber you started with. It's a piece of cake, really.
Bob

I'm ordering parts to replace my front hubs -- besides the 2 hub assemblies, I know it's wise to replace the bolts with new ones. FCP Groton says that you need 4 of these per hub, which makes sense:

Volvo S60 Hub Mounting Bolt-4 per hub (2001-2008)

But 2 of these per hub, but I thought there's only 1axle bolt?

Volvo S60 Axle Bolt-2 per hub (2001-2008)

So is it 1 or 2 axle bolts per hub? Anything else besides Loctite needed?

Thanks.

1 axle bolt per axle and 4 hub bolts per axle.

As far as I can tell by torque, these are not torque to yield bolts, so can be reused if they're in good shape, but do what makes you comfortable.

Do you remember socket sizes necessary for the job? I have a decent set of tools, but like to make sure I've got everything before I start....great post by the way!

I don't, but if you have complete sockets 13-19mm you should be covered.

Some sets don't have non German traditional car sizes (which were 8,10,13,17, and 19mm), and for some reason I seem to remember this job used some odd-ball sizes, like 15mm, 16mm or 18mm sizes some sets don't include.

Sorry I don't remember now. It's been a while since I did the job.
VERY straight forward job. No tricks needed.

Bob

More good info... thanks again. I will report on this post once finished. Have a good Thanksgiving.

Youtube video of Volvo S60 half shaft / CV axle passenger replacement
 

Hello guys, my buddy made a video of replacing the passenger side of a Volvo S60 half shaft / CV axle / Constant Velocity Joint, passenger replacement (2000 - 2009). If anyone is replacing their CV axle and gets stuck, it might prove useful. The OP's instructions are a great place to start!

Youtube.com


Feedback on video is welcome, my buddy and I started doing this as a way to help others who get stuck when doing mechanical work (I started watching him orig to learn me up on some mech work).

Eric

i did a write up on this that has photos of the process too. https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...install-94580/