I am installing OE Spark Plugs part #8692071.

I think it is a Bosch plug. I know NGK do not require the use of AntiSeize grease. I think you need to use with the Bosch plugs.

Do you know what the torque needs to be when using the antiseize grease?

Also does anyone know the correct gap.

Is it to early to replace at 47,000 miles?

 

I would say 47K is a little early unless you think you're having issues. The dealers in my area recommend 75K. I changed my with just under 73K, but I got the car used with about 66K on it. I'd probably change plugs anywhere from 60K to 70K if I'd owned the car with lesss mileage and wasn't more concerned about getting other maintenance done on it that was more pressing. From what all I've heard and read the Volvo plug is made by Bosch. See another thread in the S60 area called "What kind of Spark Plugs to get" for more info. If you haven't already purchased the plugs another option is the Bosch FR7DPP+ plug which is what I am using in my S60. Just put them in about 500 miles ago and it runs great. The gap should be 7 mm which is 0.0275" and the torque is 22 ft lbs. I don't think the Bosch plug requires the antiseize, but you're not going to hurt anything by using it. I always put it on the threads when I change plugs just in case. If you use it, just put a thin layer on the threads. The most important threads not to miss are the ones at the base of the plug, but be careful and don't get any on the electrodes. Also you may want to consider putting a thin layer of dielectric grease on the boot that contacts the white area of the plug. Once again, just put on a small layer. It definately makes sliding the boot on much easier, the coil/boot is held in place by a small bolt so you don't have to worry about a boot slipping off due to the grease. The dielectric grease is supposed to keep any moisture out of the plug connection, which wasn't an issue on my plugs but it takes just a few extra minutes and you never know what the future holds.

 

Thanks for the info. I have already replaced using the Volvo plug. I started seeing the mpg decrease. The plugs were worn. I was getting 32mpg and it was down to 28-29. Now I am back at 32. I would hate to see what they look like at 75k.

I know BMW has had a lot of problems with the Bosch plugs and rec NGK.

I did use antiseize, a very small amount. Does Volvo ever have a grounding issue when you use antiseize? My car is running great.

Next up is trans fluid. Have you done that yet?

 

You can't go wrong with the Volvo plugs. I've never heard of a grounding issue with using antisieze, although it you got it on the electrode. I know guys that have used Bosch plugs for years in all of their vehicles without any problems, so I didn't see any issue in going with the Bosch plug in the Volvo, especially since Bosch makes the Volvo plug. The Euro Haynes manual actually lists the Bosch plug as the OEM replacment. With that said, I have a Lexus that I will be replacing with NGK plugs since they seem to cause the least problems for that type of vehicle. My Volvo was running fine at 73K when I replaced the plugs, but I'm hopeful that my gas mileage has gone up. What type of driving do you do to get the 32 MPG? My wife typically drives the Volvo, and she's driving in traffic quite a bit and has a lead foot, and I think we were around 25 MPG before the plug change. Not sure what it is now, but I am curious. I have changed my tranmission fluid. Your smart in doing it at less that 50K. See the thread called Transmission Fluid. The trans can develop some problems if you wait too long before you service. From what all I've read even at 50K, I'd just drain 3 1/2 quarts from the pan, and replace as opposed to a full flush. Make sure you use at JWS3309. I used Mobil 3309 which is much more affordable then the Volvo Fluid. $6.50 a quart vs about $20 a liter for the Volvo fluid. There's a drain plug, so it's easy. Just make sure and get a replacement oring for you drain plug (Same one as used for the oil drain plug), and get a funnel with a long neck to replace fluid where you check the fluid. Others have thought there was some sort of fill hole on the top of the transmission, but they ended up loosening up one of the gears, which obviously gave them problems. I ended up buying a Haynes Manual (Euro edition). Not necessarily required for the trans flush, but was useful and will be useful in the future.

 

Thanks for the response.

I am a highway only driver at 75+ mph. The new plugs did improve the Mpg, I also did fuel filter at the same time.

I hope to do the trans flush in the next week or so.

I assume the drain plug is easy to spot.

 

Where did you get the Mobil3309

 

Manual says plugs should be done at 60K...not 75K. These cars run better on stock plugs than aftermarket. You can buy Toyota Type IV for a lot cheaper than ordering Mobil 3309 online. It's the same stuff and it's only $5 quart at most Toyota dealers.

 

I'm a big NGK fan, I just changed my plugs at 55k with v power NGK plugs and the cars runs great. 06 2.5t. You cant got wrong with OEM though. I always use a little anti seize on the threads for good measure.

 

Sorry I didn't back to you sooner. I bought the Mobil 3309 online at http://store.avlube.com/mobilatf3309.html.

It was within about a buck in price as to if I would have picked up the Toyota Fluid. Since it was delivered to my door, I probably saved since I didn't have to drive about 10 to 15 miles. Just depends on Toyota dealer as to price on items. I live in Dallas TX area and there are Toyota dealers all over the place and the price is different at every one. Also, Toyota has more than one ATF fluid spec. so make sure you buy the Type IV if that's what you choose. I haven't seen a bottle but it's supposed to say JWS3309 in fine print on the back.

 

My gas mileage did improve by a couple miles per gallon. Turns out I was at 24 before and now I'm at 26, but lots of stop and go traffic, so I guess that is reasonable but I wish I was getting better.

I changed my fuel filter as well. I wish all fuel filters were that easy. I replaced fuel filter a few weeks after I changed my plugs and I noticed that the engine ran a little rough at idle for a few days after replacing fuel filter, but it settled down. The only thing I can figure is the engine was getting a little different fuel mixture and the computer had to adjust timing of motor, etc.

Also, you may have already changed the trans fluid, but the trans plug is very easy to find. The socket required is a little bigger than the one required to remove the oil plug.