My 01 s60 was at idle speed in the driveway when the timing belt broke. Immediately shut off e motor, it did make a noise when the belt broke. Wondering if I am looking at a bent valve, but will attempt a belt replacement tomorrow, however the pulley bit looks difficult without the volvo tool (will it just turn when I st the 30mm on there)? Hopefully someone can help. Thx.

 

How do you know the belt broke?

How many miles does the motor have on it?

I believe it bent the valves.

 

Ouch. How many miles were on the belt since it was last changed? I have an '01 as well and I changed my belt about 3 weeks ago with 175K miles on the car, or 70K on the belt, tensioner, and idler. No "special" tools are needed to complete the belt change, but an impact wrench helps with that 30mm nut. This was the video I watched before doing mine: .

The bad news: you've probably got a lot of repair work ahead of you. Your valves are going to be toast: timing belt sticky.

 

I recently bought the car, changed some coil packs etc-- and there was no cover over the timing belt on the engine side, so I can see it -- it popped up and looks frayed. The car has 130k mi, and I don't know when the belt was replaced prior to me owning this one. Hope I didn't bend any valves, but it seems likely.

If I did I'll be tearing down the head to replace the bend valves myself. The engine looks no where near as easy to work on as my old 89 760 turbo, lol.

Good to know an impact will grab that 30mm nut off. Thanks guys, I'll keep my fingers crossed and post back here. Hopefully it's not catastrophic; what other volvos use the 2.4t? ... I might go junking for a head.

 

So it was likely the original belt. Man, that's a shame. When I get a car (Volvo only), and don't have documented proof that it's been done, I usually have the car TOWED to have it done. Horrible!

 

Yah, I wish I had come here first and read the sticky on timing belts this could turn out to be a real bummer.

Is there any way to check the valves / turn things over prior to the belt installation? I'm thinking if I throw a belt on there (with damage to valves internally) it could just do more damage.

Luckily I was working on the car at the time and it was immediately shut off, so internal damage at this point should be rather minimal. JC Whitney has the valves for $11 each, so if there is damage I'll just replace them all .

 

You could line up the timing marks, put on a new belt then turn it over by hand 2 times. If it turns over ok then you could do a compression test. Hopefully no damage was done to the pistons.

 

Will do. I just took a peek out at the junkyard this morning. Is the Same 2.4L engine in the s70? / '99 model year?

 

I don't have the timing cover.... With the marks on it here to line up exhaust cam. Am I screwed or is there another frame of reference I can use to do this? My car didn't come with the cover.

 

Well, it looks like the water pump seized up - taking the timing belt along with it. I don't have the timing cover with the marks on it, however there looks to be a red marking on the block for the camshaft closest to the radiator. I have that one aligned, but no marks for the other cam closer to me firewall ...

 

*bump*. .. No timing cover with marks

 

You should get a timing cover. Even though the valves are likely already bent, you don't want to guess.

 

The 30mm crank bolt won't budge even with my 5hp 125psi compressor....

 

What kind of gun? I've never had a problem busting them loose with my IR

 

Yeah, it still wont budge... Tried liquid wrench on it overnight, and still won't move. The setup is a 20 gallon, 2.5 hp compressor that gets up to 125psi. Tried two guns, a campbell hausfeld and a central pneumatic -- I have three... This stupid crank bolt is gonna get the metal blade treatment pretty soon here if I can't get it to budge. Any suggestions? I called the fcp Groton guys, and they say they've never heard of thAt bolt not cracking before.

 

Yeah they usually come off pretty easily but my gun puts out a lot of torque.

 

Still wont budge.. Tried PB penetrating catalyst, as well as CRC "freeze-off" to no avail... Any suggestions?

 

I'm not sure about the access with that bolt but I usually get crank bolts off with a 4 foot breaker pretty easy. Just have to get under it and use NO extension. You can see what I mean in this video.

 

A tip I have for you is to try alternating between tightening and loosening the nut with your impact until it frees up. I live in the rust belt so I deal with quite a bit of corrosion. It took several attempts and everything my impact could offer to get mine loose.

 

Ok, it was (both!) of my Air guns not being powerful enough to spin off that 30mm crank bolt. Borrowed a professional air ratchet from a friend whom owns a tranny shop, and it spun it right off. Still waiting on my timing cover from FCP Groton, which I ordered because I could not locate a volvo with the same engine at the junkyard. I did turn the motor over by hand a few times, and it seems smooth... Maybe I lucked out because the car was at idle, and immediately shut down. Got the new water pump, and belt on there now.

What will be symptoms of a bent valve, after I get the timing cover to align my cams? Thanks again guys.