first test wife was sitting in car and had here make sure everything was off and checked and had an initial parasitic draw of 1.26 amp removed meter hooked battery back up and had her put window down so could have her check stuff and be able to hear me
second test her in car window down with meter hooked up i am showing a parasitic drain of .05 amp i have gone thru all fuses and relays possible in both fuse and relay boxes under the hood and zero change in draw i have had numerous recent issues with vehicle related to electrical or possible ecu.
i am making an assumption here that there is a possible problem with alternator diode being bad and causing constent .05 amp draw. But issue is i don't believe the parasitic draw is always the same i have had some occasions car can sit 3 or 4 days with no issues and others the very next day batter is flat so could this be related to some home position switch in window motor or switch assembly also ?
batter was tested by interstate battery end of last week and load tested fine tech did mention only thing he found was slightly down on charge but deep cycle was within spec.

vehicle is a 1999 s70 with 76,000 miles
2wd automatic
base radio no cd changer
nothing fancy just base edition

i have noticed door closure recently not shutting off interior light so make sure door is closed firm and lights are out every time i park it.

other issue is with cooling fan operation which is totally different issue related to signal from ecu to fan control relay to cycle fans on/off on a temperature change .

 

0.05 amps is 50 milliamps (mA) which is perfectly normal. Anything above about 80-100 mA is excessive. And as you've likely figured out, you need to wait for all the control modules to go into sleep mode (a few minutes typically).

If you do have an excessive intermittent draw, the most likely culprits are usually the glove box light and/or the trunk light. There's a switch in the trunk for the light so you can turn that one off (all the time). Do that, and pull the bulb out of the glovebox to see if that eliminates the battery-dead problem.

 

gdog i did address those other points as you commented already and had shut of the switch to trunk light and removed glove box bulb about 5 or 6 weeks ago.

It takes 2 - 3 or more times on occasion to open and close drivers door to get the lower light near feet to turn off which are separate from the doom light which is switchable on / off. Door ajar switch i assume is built into latch mechanism inside door as i do not see a physical switch as you would see on other make vehicles or am i visually missing seeing this switch somehow. This is ony thing i can figure is switch isn't working proper and whats to say with minor wear of latch that it might not stay shut off properly all the time and we have had some pretty nasty storms here of late so maybe its buffeting the vehicle enough to cause it to trigger a door ajar situation. but only a shot in the dark of issue i can figure.
So any suggestion how or where to disable the door ajar switch?

 

I remember when I first bought my S70 it had the same problem and I went through a year of PITA with a very similar issue. I checked lights of all sorts and all the fuses and it ended up being my alternator was drawing juice from the battery, parasitic draw. It ruined my battery and made me need boosts all the time: if all else fails it could be your alternator, just saying.

 

Loboloco . . . did you ever figure it out