Hi Everyone,

My step-son bought a 99 S70 T5 about six weeks ago with 185k miles on the clock. Two weeks after buying it he had a coolant leak. Easy fix as it was the short piece of hose in the line from the turbo by the timing cover. Now it is parked due to a massive bleed out of oil. I haven't refilled and started it because of the volume of loss in such a short time. I did run it long enough to get from outside of the garage to the inside. My first thought was oil pump/crankshaft seal because of this picture.



There is also oil all over the frame on the passenger side of the frame behind the engine. Couple that with signs of oil being slung around by the lower belt drive pulley and some oil inside the timing cover I though I nailed it. But, after pulling the timing belt covers I didn't find the obvious oil volume I thought I would.



There is some oil inside the cover but the belt, pulleys, etc are not covered with oil. So my next thought was maybe it's the gasket for the pump housing. I saw this video on youtube that's why I thought pump housing gasket.


I know that is much cleaner than my engine picture but it is the same area that I have covered with oil. I should also mention that the outside of the timing cover is covered with oilaround the lower pulley.

So I decided to investigate more before I buy any parts and I found the area under the cover on the valve cover has oil in it, too.



After seeing all this I decided to do some reading and found out the following.

I need to do the service on the PCV system. I found the kit with all the parts for about $105.
I need to check all the lines to the oil cooler for leaks, maybe I'll do it anyway as everything down there is covered with oil.

While I'm at it I'm thinking I'm gonna pull the oil pump out and replace the seal and gasket while I'm at it. I only want to tear into it once.

I have also inspected the timing belt closely and it appears to be in great condition so I may not replace it at this time. That depends on what it looks like when I remove it to make the other repairs although I should probably just replace it while I have it all apart.

Does it sound like I have it all covered? Are there any "tricks" I need to know to make this as easy as possible (like holding the crankshaft from turning when I take the nut off the harmonic balancer)? Any special parts or can I get it all in kits like for the PCV system?

Thanks in Advance,
Mike

Edit:
Found out today it's not a GLT, it's a T5

 

Oil on top of the head is usually one of two things- the oil cap/seal or PCV breater hose. If you have positive pressure from the oil dipstick, the breather box needs to be replaced and the ports on the block cleaned. This positive pressure can cause seals to leak and fail (such as the camshaft seals or rear main seal).

 

How do tell if the box needs replacement? If it does, how do you clean the ports? The cap/seal seems good as it feels like it closes tightly. I guess one big issue for me is I don't know it's past maintenance history. I was told it's a one owner car, but I doubt that is true.

I guess I need to bite the bullet and fill it with oil and start it and see where the oil is coming from if I can and figure out if I have positive pressure at the dipstick tube.

 

Update!!!

Ok. I added oil and started it. For the first couple couple minutes everything was fine. After it started to get close to operating temp it began to leak. It only took about five minutes to have a twelve inch puddle of oil on the floor, so it's leaking at a good rate.

I can't tell exactly where it is coming from, but it seems to be in the area of the water pump. I have the accessory belt and timing covers off and can see it running down the rear part of the cover below the water pump. From there it drips onto the motor mount and then the frame. If it is driven that would explain it being all over the frame on the passenger side. Add the covers and accessory belt and that would explain it getting everywhere else.

What is in that area that could leak at that rate. Oil pressure sensor? Oil cooler line?

If anyone has any pictures or diagrams of that area it would be most appreciated.

 

Well, I started the tear down today. I'm waiting to ID the oil leak before I order parts, although I have the feeling it's a cooler line at tgis point. Anyone have parts nunberz handy for the o-rings?

I also did tge "latex glove test on the PVC system. I tore a finger off the glove and put it on the diostick tube and it just stood straight up. Definitely some back pressure there.

When I went to remove the intake two of the bolts weren't even tight, either. I have determined for sure that the oil pump seal is not the culprit and the timing belt has been replaced not too long ago. At least some of the requured maintenance has been done.

I have also found out that I have the later engine in that model year so it will make parts ordering easier. Should have it back together this weekend if all goes well.

 

I don't think the S70s had the extra oil cooler with the thermostat under the crank pulley- did you take the crank pulley off yet? If it doesn't, there may be a block off plate there that has a gasket in it that can fail. You may also have leaking cam seals though.

The breather box is definately clogged. When you remove it from the engine, you'll probably see sludge clogging to the ports. You'll probably need to clean the ports out with a screwdriver and some carb cleaner. Hopefully the oil pan isn't clogged as well, but it sure could be. Remove whatever you can from the ports and blow air through them to see if you hear it coming out of the oil dipstick. If you do, then the passage from the PCV breather box going down into the pan is open (or at least partially open)

 

I definitley have the cooler, it's low on the rear of the block. Has the coolant lines going to it. I am thinking oil line or t-stat leak because when I started it yesterday (had to add 3-1/2 qts oil first), it didn't leak until it started to get near operating temp. Once it warmed up the oil started dripping at a decent rate. Five minutes and I had a puddle of oil 10-12 inches in diameter. I haven't pulled the crankshaft pulley yet. Since the front seal isn't leaking I really don't want to pull it unless I have no choice. The timing belt, idler, and tensioner all look fairly new but I was thinking about removing the belt and checking the front cam seals while I'm at it.

 

Yes, you have that cooler, all of them do. But there are no external oil lines going to it. Some had an additional cooler in the radiator and the thermostat for it was right by the crank pulley. Two lines went between the thermostat to the cooler in the radiator.

 

The clogged PCV will cause the pressure in the motor to blow seals. Replace that system then replace seals.

There is a chance that cam seals are pushed out, most of the time you can see them through the cam sprocket. It also sounds like you have an oil cooler line leaking (pretty sure those are only on turbo models). Make sure because those things are expensive.

http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin...T_oil_line.htm

 

http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin...ont_s70glt.htm

 

Got it. My Bad. I am by no means a Volvo Expert, but I am competent with a wrench. Just figured oil cooler and/or line because it doesn't leak until it gets warmed up. Made me think about an oil t-stat. I read about them just haven't gotten to that part of the disassembly process yet.


That's what I'm thinking. I have a "grocery list", going to one of the parts places linked here (FCP Euro). I'm not ordering until I know everything that I need.

I haven't positively ID-ed the leak, yet, but it seems like it's coming from an area on the back left corner above the crankshaft pulley. I was thinking about pulling the cam spockets off along with the rear timing cover so I can actually see what's there.

 

Progress!!

Found the timing marks today, marked them and the belt with a paint pen, pulled the belt, pulled the front cam sprocket, and found this!!



Hopefully that is the only one, but I'm gonna check them all and order parts tomorrow. I've seen bad sealsbefore, but I've never seen one popped oug of place like that. Learn something new every day.

ES6T, thanks for the pointers, and you are correct. I do not have the oil lines running to the radiator. I read on another site that the line was most likely my issue and a parts site said the o-rings for them were for my engine.

 

Yep, that will do it. Get that PCV system done and clean so it doesn't happen to any other seals. Hopefully the rear main is still seated correctly. If you take the other cam pulley off, you'll need to lock the cams at the back to get the CVVT set up again. Keep that in mind.

 

I want to pull the exhaust cam sprocket too since I have the belt off. May as well make sure they are all good before I put it back together. I removed the cap from the front of the cam sprocket only to find another torx screw inside. How do I remove it? If there is a write up can you direct me please? All I can find are write ups that show the exhaust sprocket that is identical to the front. I guess I should check the rears and, as much as I don't want to, pull the crank sprocket, too. I just don't want any leaks after I am done.

 

You'll need to either rent, buy or make a camshaft locking tool. There's a sticky on making one. Not sure if there's a post about CVVT setup around here.

 

Thanks Again!!

Doubt I can rent in my area so it's either make or buy. I'll look for the thread and see if I can make one first.

I found this for setup, does it look right?

Volvo Performance Repairs And Modifications

 

I'm from the school of "if it aint broke, don't fix it". I'd leave that exhaust cam sprocket alone.

 

I'm from the same scbool, BUT, the front intake seal is blown out, I see the oil trail where the rear exhaust seal is leaking, and there is no way I'm skipping the front exhaust seal. All I need to do is remove the sprocket and I can put a new one in, leaking or not. That way I won't have to worry about it.

i found a couple threads on how to make one (camshaft lock tool).

Thanks Again!!

P.S.

I have the intake out (finally!) Found all kinds of problems. Two intake manifold bolts weren't tight, a1/4" vacuum line was disintegrated, the elbow on top of the breather box has a broken fitting where the small line connects, the big hose to the top of the intercooler has a hole in it, the ring pulled off the oil dipstick, and one of the factory clamps was loose on the pcv system (broken).

On a good note, the passages in the block for the pcv system are pretty clear and the timing belt, tensioner, and pulley have been replaced recently. The breather box itself has slight resistance to flow but it does pass air. With all the vacuum leaks it's no wonder I have some back pressure in the block. The rear main seal also seems to be good (Thank God). I can only imagine how much better it will run when it goes back together.

On a side note, Is there a write up on a home made flywheel lock anywhere?

 

I've finished diagnosing what is needed and have ordered parts today. Total with oil and shipping was $470, not too bad compared to what it could have been. As far as I can tell both crankshaft seals are good, so I don't have that hassle to deal with.

I am making a camshaft locking tool like the one shown here, so all four cam seals and reassembly will be easy. Anyone know the torque specs for the cam sprockets, timing belt idler, and intake bolts? A link to a complete engine bolt torque list would be perfect.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/genera...ication-38396/

I'm figuring between what I found to fix it should be running pretty good once it goes back together. Did a compression test while I was at it and the numbers are good so there doesn't seem to be any major damage done due to oil loss. After all this is done next item will be getting rid of the CEL. Got the codes and they are O2 sensor related. Piece of cake compared to this.

Thanks to all who helped so far. Definitely made this a little easier for me.

 

You are making a good decision to do all the cam seals while you are in there. No need to be lazy or cheap when you are that far.

You did a compression test with the belt off?