Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum - Oil pan o-ring replacement instructions!!

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- - Oil pan o-ring replacement instructions!! (https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s70-33/oil-pan-o-ring-replacement-instructions-1452/)

so how many o-rings need to be replaced all together? I mean what comes in set?
eeuroparts sells them separately (2 different sizes, 20mm and 31mm) and gasket/sealant is $13, i hope dealer is not much more than that.

There will be 5 total. 2 between the oil pan and block. Then 1 for the oil pickup tube. Then 2 more for the pipe that goes from the top of where the oil filter it to the bottom back side of the oil pan.

thanks tech...I am helping my friend do this on his volvo this weekend, let u know the outcome.

happy to report that my friends car runs like a champ now. We replaced 2 oil pan seals and 1 for the pick up tube, thats all. Not sure about those other 2 seals you were talking about (above the filter and down to oil pan:confused:, couldnt find that pipe) but this was enough. Maybe that is only on turbo models, this one was just regular 2.4 non-turbo?!
Anyway, it turned put to be a cheap fix (less than a $100 altogether: seals, gasket and oil filter were picked up from dealer and than 6 quarts of oil from autozone).
Tech, thanks for the writeup ;)

Then it must have had the metal screw on filter.
Glad all is good.

You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

On my '00 S70 I was able to wriggle the pan out and back -- with difficulty. But today on my '98 -- no way, it's hanging up on the oil pickup pipe.

So, I assume that the above instructions mean that the engine mount on the passenger side is to be loostened too? And, rather than dropping the subframe, one could alternatively lift the engine a little?

I am surprised the 98 is so much trouble. But you can remove the engine mount and then put a 4x4 between the crank pulley and subframe and have plenty of room.

Duh, I meant the reverse: '98 wasn't a problem, '00 is a pain.

Thanks

2001 V70T O rings

Hello, do thease instuctions apply to the 2001 onwards V70? Or are they all the same. Many thanks for your very detailed instructions, Alan

Hello all, I have just taken the sump off my 2001 V70 P2 and it was very easy, no moving of sub frame or lifting the engine - it just drops straight down. Harder on the earlier models I believe.

I bought the o-ring kit from Volvo, part number 30750783 and as I was re-assembling the pipe that goes from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler (in the sump) I noticed that the oil O-rings (sleeves) are the wrong size.

If they are put into the hole (instead of on the pipe) they are quite clearly too small in out-side diameter.

They are also not like the ones that came out which were a different size and very brittle.

Has anybody else come across this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech (Post 5320)

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.

Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.

Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.

Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

[img]local://upfiles/853/6C06AEC926B8480CB3D9B9F6BD9DB835.jpg[/img]

[img]local://upfiles/853/6ADF2312E71D4D92ADF58D6501866923.jpg[/img]

[img]local://upfiles/853/B8C61FE448CA41539487BCF3C436B147.jpg[/img]

So i think I'm going to try this on my 99 S70. Might take it to the shop and deal with the labor fees but i was wondering how high i should lift the car. Best i can do is jacks and stands. Is that good?

Tip for installing the o rings

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnnyrock (Post 43532)

Tech - thanks for posting the instructions on replacing the oil pan o-rings.

I recently took my S70 to a dealership to diagnose a loud ticking noise that comes and goes. Its especially noticable at stop lights.
The lead tech told me that the oil pan o-rings had to be replaced and that it was the cause of the ticking lifter noice.

Is this possible? Or is he miss diagnosing the problem?

when installing the o-rings between the block and pan, be sure to use a thick coat petroleum jelly in the recesses and on the o-rings to keep them in place during coupling the mating surfaces together. You hint want them shifting while you are lifting the pan into place.