s70 died, now runs rough
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From: Newberg, OR
s70 died, now runs rough
ok guys, help me out with this one.
'98 s70 T5 automatic.
the other day I was out with my daughter while she's learning to drive. It was pouring buckets, wipers on high, lots of puddles around. Anyway, as we where driving on some rural county roads, she turned left from one onto another and the car stumbled a little bit. It's hard for me to tell exactly what happened because of the noise from the rain and I wasn't behind the wheel, but at the time I thought she spun the tires a bit accelerating through the turn. After that it drove fine for a few miles, until the next turn. She was turning right onto another road and in the middle of the turn the engine died.
We were able push it into a near-by gravel lot and it would start up but run very poorly, erratic idle, backfire, etc. When stepping on the throttle it would hesitate to rev up, but eventually would, but it would top out about 1800 rpm. I didn't try putting it in gear but I'm guessing with how bad it was it would have stalled immediately. I thought maybe with all the rain and puddles and what not maybe it got some water in the distributor cap. After sitting a while I could get it to idle decently (though still not very good) and it was running well enough to move it around in the lot, though I didn't trust it to run home.
Long story short... got it home and pulled the codes:
P0102
P0172
P0410
P0455
the P0455 I'm well aware of, it's had it since I bought it 5 years ago, just never got around to fixing it. Anyway, I cleared the codes and pulled the distributor cap. Minor condensation in the cap, nothing I would be too worried about, but I wiped it out and sprayed it all down with WD-40 just to be sure. It seemed to run a little better after that, but still had issues. Checked the codes again and the P0102 was back and the P0172 was pending. With the P0102 code, I pulled the MAF and cleaned it. That actually made it run worse again. It stumbles badly at idle and struggles to rev up, but will eventually make it to 1800 or so where it tops out. It's running super rich, I can smell it and see the black smoke. It seems to run the same with or without the MAF plugged in.
I have a reman. MAF on order and I'll replace that once it comes in. I've done a cursory check for any vacuum leaks, though not thorough, besides with the rich condition I don't think it would be a vacuum leak anyway.
The cap/rotor/plugs/wires were all replaced last summer with Volvo parts.
Other than replacing the MAF, anything else I should be looking for?
TIA, and sorry for the long post.
'98 s70 T5 automatic.
the other day I was out with my daughter while she's learning to drive. It was pouring buckets, wipers on high, lots of puddles around. Anyway, as we where driving on some rural county roads, she turned left from one onto another and the car stumbled a little bit. It's hard for me to tell exactly what happened because of the noise from the rain and I wasn't behind the wheel, but at the time I thought she spun the tires a bit accelerating through the turn. After that it drove fine for a few miles, until the next turn. She was turning right onto another road and in the middle of the turn the engine died.
We were able push it into a near-by gravel lot and it would start up but run very poorly, erratic idle, backfire, etc. When stepping on the throttle it would hesitate to rev up, but eventually would, but it would top out about 1800 rpm. I didn't try putting it in gear but I'm guessing with how bad it was it would have stalled immediately. I thought maybe with all the rain and puddles and what not maybe it got some water in the distributor cap. After sitting a while I could get it to idle decently (though still not very good) and it was running well enough to move it around in the lot, though I didn't trust it to run home.
Long story short... got it home and pulled the codes:
P0102
P0172
P0410
P0455
the P0455 I'm well aware of, it's had it since I bought it 5 years ago, just never got around to fixing it. Anyway, I cleared the codes and pulled the distributor cap. Minor condensation in the cap, nothing I would be too worried about, but I wiped it out and sprayed it all down with WD-40 just to be sure. It seemed to run a little better after that, but still had issues. Checked the codes again and the P0102 was back and the P0172 was pending. With the P0102 code, I pulled the MAF and cleaned it. That actually made it run worse again. It stumbles badly at idle and struggles to rev up, but will eventually make it to 1800 or so where it tops out. It's running super rich, I can smell it and see the black smoke. It seems to run the same with or without the MAF plugged in.
I have a reman. MAF on order and I'll replace that once it comes in. I've done a cursory check for any vacuum leaks, though not thorough, besides with the rich condition I don't think it would be a vacuum leak anyway.
The cap/rotor/plugs/wires were all replaced last summer with Volvo parts.
Other than replacing the MAF, anything else I should be looking for?
TIA, and sorry for the long post.
Last edited by pitrow; Apr 2, 2014 at 05:17 PM.
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From: Newberg, OR
hey Robert. It's a remanufactured one from Napa... didn't want to spring the big bucks for the right one from IPD. At least not yet.
Anyway, it came in last night so I swapped it out. I also found a small vacuum hose that wasn't fitting it's connection very well anymore so I fixed that. Definitely the cause. It's running much much better now. It still has a very slight hesitation just off idle if you try to creep it slow, but under normal driving you don't notice it. I drove it to work this morning (25-ish miles of mixed city/highway) and it did great. I scanned the codes when I got to work this morning and the P0172 code is still pending (I had cleared them last night) so I have a little bit more work to do on chasing down the cause of that.
So my question is, does the MAF going out usually cause it to run that bad where it will die while driving? Seems a little excessive to me. I know it will make it run poor but not to the point where it will die while driving.
Anyway, it came in last night so I swapped it out. I also found a small vacuum hose that wasn't fitting it's connection very well anymore so I fixed that. Definitely the cause. It's running much much better now. It still has a very slight hesitation just off idle if you try to creep it slow, but under normal driving you don't notice it. I drove it to work this morning (25-ish miles of mixed city/highway) and it did great. I scanned the codes when I got to work this morning and the P0172 code is still pending (I had cleared them last night) so I have a little bit more work to do on chasing down the cause of that.
So my question is, does the MAF going out usually cause it to run that bad where it will die while driving? Seems a little excessive to me. I know it will make it run poor but not to the point where it will die while driving.
Last edited by pitrow; Apr 3, 2014 at 10:31 AM.
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,736
Likes: 35
From: Albuquerque, NM
Yes, the MAF is the heart of the AIR. A car needs 5 things to run, fuel, air, compression, spark and timing.
How is your PCV? Sometimes a bad or broken PCV tube can cause the P0172 code. Look at the tube connection on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
Your remaining running issue is likely from the reman MAF. Is it Bosch? If not, replace it. Heck, I can send you a used one if you'd like.
How is your PCV? Sometimes a bad or broken PCV tube can cause the P0172 code. Look at the tube connection on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
Your remaining running issue is likely from the reman MAF. Is it Bosch? If not, replace it. Heck, I can send you a used one if you'd like.
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,736
Likes: 35
From: Albuquerque, NM
My daughter was having MAF issues and I got her a couple of used MAF's. Before I sent them, I tested them in my car and could tell the difference in performance. A MAF is likely like a o2 sensor and probably needs to be replaced every 100,000 miles.
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