I have a 1999 S80 that runs great. The only issue is there is a gas smell that is strong near the gas fill area(passenger rear). Fuel Cap is fine and fuel filter is good. Someone mentioned a vent tube that rots or disconnects. Does anyone have any additional info of this.

Thanks for your time.

 

We had the same problem. It turned out that the fuel tank had cracked around the (quantity) sending unit mounted on the top of the tank, right side. If I remember correctly, the tank is neoprene or some other kind of plastic (Oh Joy!). The tank is a "saddle" type tank, meaning that the tank straddles the drive shaft and has a transfer pump that keeps the quantity even in both sides. This whole arrangement is way too complicated for a basic system like a fuel tank. An essential part like this should be as simple (fool-proof) as possible. We were not impressed with the engineering on this system. You can access the the top of the tank by removing the rear seat. Look for a feed tube or sending unit (don't remember which) on the right side. If it's cracked, you'll need to replace the tank. We love our S80, but it has been a nightmare on maintenance!

Good luck

 

The sending units will crack where the line attaches and you will need to replace the Fuel pump sending unit.
If you remove the rear seat on the right side you will see a cover. The sending unit is under that cover.
But you will also have to remove the rear part of the seat that folds. Remove the little leather peice next to the seat. Then remove the 14mm screw holding the seat to the floor. Then fold it about half way and slide the seat out.

 

Follow up -- Tech was correct. After removing the back seat and inspection plate, there was a hairline fracture on the input tube to the fuel pump. Under pressure it would leak with slight movement of the gas line. An old mechanic suggested that I try to seal it with some 5200 RTV. I put some one and will try it in 48 hours. If it doesn't work I will replace the assembly. Looks around $250 for part.

I guess this is my welcome to the Volvo world. ($$$$$$)

Thanks Tech for your time and good advice

Regards,
DrDootz

 

Keep us posted.

 

Update - RTV did not work because of pressure in system. Got the fuel pump assembly online for $250 vs $325 at dealer. I don't have special Volvo tool to remove retainer ring that holds the assembly in, so I made one from a 1 x 3 piece of wood. Not has hi-tech as tool but worked. It turns out I had to remove both inspection plates because there is a wiring harness that connects to the float assembly on the driver side of the gas tank.

From start to finish about 4.5 hours to complete job. I was careful removing and replacing the back seat not to cosmetical damage anything.

Dealer said job would be between $1000-1200 for parts and labor. It cost me 5 hours labor and $250.

Thanks, TECH for your orginal advise. It was spot on.

Regards,
Dr. Dootz

 

You should have posted that you were going to do it. I would have walked you through it.

 

wow, is the coils easier to do then this?

 

Alot

 

This is the diagram for replacing the fuel pump assembly

[IMG]local://upfiles/4190/8214B442BEAA4901A552811CD034F55F.jpg[/IMG]

 

i just got through with the same trouble,,, had an independant repair shop do the job , total cost $638 (labor@300, fuel pump@292, fuel filter@28, +tax)...

 

Tech,
Looks like I'm going to have to do this this weekend. Any recommendations on constructing the tool to remove the retaining ring or can this be done with common tools? Any other gotchas besides common sense disconnecting the electrical system and making sure the fuel sytem has fully self-depressurized (ie., leaked)? I've already removed the backseat to discover the same cracked connection line. I'll pick up the pump tomorrow. Thanks for posting the diagram.

 

Cherry,
I made a tool from a 12 inch 1x3 board. I cut a notch in the middle of the board. I wedged it in and used a hammer to hit it. You have to hit it pretty hard to get it to move but when it does it will easily unscrew. You have to remove both retainer rings on the left and right side. The fuel pump has a pipe that goes over to the fuel level sensor on the driver side of the gas tank. The retainer rings are the same and cost about $2 from the dealer. Even if you break one or two tabs on the ring they will still work.

Hints from my job:
1) Remove as much gas as possible. The fuel sensor is lower than than the fuel pump. I thought I took enough gas out but didn't at first.

2) I tied a piece of yarn to the pipe on the fuel sensor when I removed the fuel pump. Then used the yarn to snake the pipe back though the tank.

3) It took about an 1 hour of the 4 hours to loosen the retainer ring. I really had to get on them to lossen them. I was going to break them off if I had to and use the new ones if I had to.


The job was actually easier than I thought when I was done and saved alot of $$$$ compared to the dealer.

Good Luck

 

Another way to get the rings loose is to use 2 Big screwdrivers. Angle them so that they hit each other then turn the ring to loosen.

Make sure you have less than a 1/4 of a tank of gas.

Also make sure you buy new seals and install them.

 

I'm in progress, just stopped in for a drink. Naturally, we got gas the day before so we are having a siphon party. We made our tool by spreading the arms of a low-qual Harbor Freight pulley puller into the tabs and putting the vice grip to it. We've got about another 1/2 hour of siphoning and we'll finish up.

Cherry

 

The pump change out went great. I'll post the pics of the tool we made. I now have an ABS service required message. In another post you said this could be triggered by a low voltage condition. We did run the battery down trying to prime the pump. The lesson learned here is to pour gasoline from a can into the new pump's reservoir before screwing down the retaining ring. Anyway, I now have the ABS service light. Will this go away in time if this is just related to the low voltage, or do I have to get the dealership involved? My local independant shop's computer only talks to pre-98 cars.

Cherry

 

Give it a little and see if the light goes out.

 

Hello,

I have a similar problem and am trying to diagnose based on the info in this thread. What leather piece must be removed in order to get the back seat (folding part) off? Any additional diagrams or instructions for the problem?

Thanks in advance!

 

It is the piece that is next to the door area once the seat is folded down.
You will have to reach behind and release the tabs and push up on the piece as the same time.

 

Thanks, Tech.

I took the car to a mechanic today to confirm that the fuel send pump was the cause of our fuel leak. They are still estimating the repair, $310 for the pump plus labor. I saw a reference above for a replacement part for $250. Can someone suggest a place to buy the send pump? Does anyone have very detailed instructions for replacing it?

Also, I called Volvo customer service today to report the leaking send pump. I referenced several cases involving the same year and model that I found online and they said I was the first to report the problem. If enough people report it to volvo, they may issue a refund of repairs and/or recall like they did with the electronic throttle body problem.