Figured out I was doing something to cause it to appear to have a 5 Amp draw, but I still have a problem, maybe the main car battery not sure yet? Last battery only lasted about 15 months. I noticed on my car for the first minute or so after you hook up a voltmeter between the battery cable and the battery it will show somewhere around at 5 Amp draw and you have to be extra careful that you secure your voltmeter probes and they don't move even a little to allow the domelight and CEM etc. to completely shut down. One thing that happened to me was I had shoved one of the probes down in a small crack where the battery wire tightens up and as I was pulling fuses and then walking back to the voltmeter, and picking it up just a little to read it it would move maybe only a centimeter at the probe end, and that would re-spark at the battery and make the CEM, dome light come back on. I ended up having to use a good clamp in my case I used some vice grips's around the battery terminal and the cable terminal and clipped the probe on securely so that it wouldn't move at all, then let it set for a full minute till everything shut down and my amp draw that was previously around 5 A went to 10 mA ( which is on the low-end of normal, I believe normal is 10 mA to around 50 mA). Hope this helps somebody else who might think they have a draw but actually don't.

 

I bought this car from my friend for cheap and tried to check the power loss. I found 3.1 Amp power loss when car is OFF. I checked and found the below two fuses to be the troubling ones. The first one should be the one, the second may have triggered due to the driver side door open.2.614 Amp drain

Fuse#32 - Central electronic module, courtesy lamps and glove box lamp draining
1.89 Amp drain hu5ker555 can you update if you had any luck, like does disabling anything help.