Brake Change...
 

So I'm not a car expert, but I know I need to get a brake change. Does anyone have any experience w/ going to Just Brakes to get it done? I don't have money for the dealer. As for a keeping it simple, I've noticed my brakes seem to stick a little bit and the rotors have developed a lip on the outer edge, aside from the normal wear of brake pads. I was told by a mechanic before that my calipers stick and whoever had my car before me didn't do a good job maintaining the brakes. But he ripped me off w/ some other stuff before so I didn't want to stay w/ him.

Anyone know the average cost for a brake job on an 2000 s80? I'd probably have to get my rotors machined... maybe calipers replaced?
I'd like to do most of it myself if it's not too intensive. I've changed brakes on other cars like my 98 Accord, but Volvo's scare me a bit. If it seemes like too much, any recommendations for a place to get them taken care of?

RE: Brake Change...
 

Try to find an Indy shop that works only on Volvo's.

Just Brakes I don't think you will be happy with their service or their parts.

RE: Brake Change...
 

the brakes on the S80 are pretty simple, however DO NOT get the rotors turned, they'll look good and work fine but whenyou brake you'll hear a grinding sound. I was told that the rotors on this car are soft, but didn't listen. I don't mind the grinding sound as long as they work, but I don't know if you will.
To get the brakes done it ran me about 250 at firestone, but the second time, ( I had to take themout and clean them) I did it myself took me about an hour.

RE: Brake Change...
 

You can get the rotors turns so long as they do not end up thinner than the minimum thickness specification of the rotor. The specifications are written on the side of the rotor. Thinner rotors will warp more easily, however, and depending on the cost of new rotors it may be a better investment just to buy new ones. Many shops will not do a brake job without turning the rotors (since it is easy money for them, in my opinion) so ask in advance.

Calipers rarely 'stick' when they are properly greased...many vehicles require you to grease the caliper pins in your regular maintenance cycle (I'm still in the research process of buying my Volvo, so I'm not very familiar with this particular vehicle).

Hope this information helps.

RE: Brake Change...
 

Vex is right, most of vehicles as long as you turn the rotors to no less that the minimal thickness you're fine. But NOT the S80. New rotors will run you about 150 a piece. The show will recommend you turn the rotors when they're doing the brake job since they have it taken apart, but it's up to you.

RE: Brake Change...
 

Having the rotors turned will be a mistake. You will see what happens if you have them cut.

Volvo's hate having them cut. You will get alot of noise out of the brakes even chattering when braking from having them cut.


Also most aftermarket pads are so hard they will squeel really bad on Volvo's.

I like the oem and never have problems with them.

Edit: here is a link you buy parts if you want to do them.
http://www2.swedishpartswholesale.co...l=null&dp=true

http://www2.swedishpartswholesale.co...ad+Set&dp=true

You might have to start over at the site I have the car as a 2000 S80 Non-turbo.

RE: Brake Change...
 

If you changed the brakes on your accord, the volvo really shouldn't be a problem. Here are the basic steps.

Obviously remove the wheel.

You'll see a large spring on the caliper. Note how the spring sits in the caliper, now pop it out with a screw driver. It's very important you put this spring back correctly. It can be a PITA.

On the back side of the caliper you will see where the sliders are attatched to the caliper. Pop off the plastic caps, and there will be 2 7mm allen screws in there. One at the top and one at the bottom. Remove both of those.

If the caliper dosen't come off the rotor easily, use a small prybar or large screw driver to gently push the rear pad back. This in turn pushes the caliper piston back slightly, so you can get it off the rotor.

With the caliper removed, you will just have the rotor exposed. There will be a 10mm screw in the rotor, remove that. If the rotor dosen't come off with just some simple tugging, take a hammer and beat the crap out of the inside of the rotor. DON'T DESTROY THE HUB WITH YOUR HAMMER. The rotor will just fall off.

Install opposite of the removal, and you've done your brakes. Once you get the wheel off you will see how it easy it is.

Regardless of what you do, ONLY use volvo pads and rotors. Everything else is going to squeak and sound terrible.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

RE: Brake Change...
 

Thanks a bunch guys. I'm in the process of getting the rotors, but I don't know which rotors to get. I'm broke as hell and am trying to do this as economically as possible. On that page you sent me Tech, the Brambo(OEM) rotors are lke $66. Would you recommend getting those for my 2000 2.8L s80 T6? The next up are the PowerSlots for $114 which is a big increase in price for me.

Same question on the brake pads...
http://www2.swedishpartswholesale.co...l=null&dp=true
Any suggestions on what to do for the lowest amount of money? I don't want to screw up my car, but I definitely can't afford high end stuff.

RE: Brake Change...
 

Buy the Brembo OEM rotors.
If you can buy the OEM pads the bad part is that they are $77.00

But if you can't afford buy what you can but they might squeel.

RE: Brake Change...
 

One more question... are there any other things I should do while I change my brakes? Like... flushing the system or something or whatever it is a Brake shop would check? (I don't know how to do any of that stuff really but am willing to learn.) The brakes haven't been changed or even really looked at for a looong while. I should perform some regular maintanance stuff while I'm down there, but I don't know what to check. Any help would be nice =)

RE: Brake Change...
 

I wouldn't worry about the fluid right now.
Get some silicon grease to put on the back of the pads as well.

RE: Brake Change...
 

Just if anyone's interested, I found some Dan-Block OEM brake pads part#N1010-87914 from www.autopartswarehouse.com for $55.78 with no shipping for $50+ orders. It sure beats $77.00. I did have to do some digging to find them though, they don't pop up when you search for the pads normally. If you do a part # search you'll find them along w/ some other discounted stuff.

RE: Brake Change...
 

UPDATE:

So I changed my brake pads and rotors. Parts were $186. Went fairly smoothly, but I did have a bit of problem when I was done. I bled the brakes but it still feels like I have to push the pedal down pretty far for a good stop, but the brakes themselves feel great. I think my brakes were sticking a bit before because the rotors formed a bit of a lip on the outer edge and I think the pads were getting caught on it... but i could be just making that up. So far I haven't noticed a sticking sort of feeling. I read about going to a empty road and slamming on the brakes to make the ABS activate in order to release air. I did that a bit, but maybe it wasn't hard enough? If that doesn't help, should I just try to bleed the brakes again? If so, what's your recommendation for brake bleeding procedure?

RE: Brake Change...
 

These brakes feel weird compaired to other cars.
Did you feel the ABS kick in?


If you rebleed them make sure you do them in order R/R L/R L/F R/R

But you might want to give it a couple of days.

If you are standing still the brake pedal might feel a little low.

But driving you barely have to touch the pedal to get it to stop that is normal.

RE: Brake Change...
 

While driving I still have to push down fairly far. When I slammed the brakes I'm not sure if I feel the ABS or not... no ABS lights come on or anything. What should I look for to indicate ABS usage? I probably will just have to bleed the brakes again when I get a chance... Also, I think my brake booster might be going bad *sigh* never ending... I can hear the hissing kinda of sound when I apply the brakes.

RE: Brake Change...
 

Easy way to tell when the ABS is activating it the Brake pedal will Pulse and you will feel it through the pedal.

The Booster noise will either be a constant Vaccum noise when holding the brakes on or not touching the pedal.

RE: Brake Change...
 

I disagree. I have replaced the brakes twice on a 2001 S80, once with Autozone and once with O'Reilly's brake pads with no noise, squeeks, squeels etc...