Control arm & ball joints
 

My State inspection report indicates the lower control arm front bushings need to be replaced soon. At 98k I am not surprised. It is about $730 to replace all the bushings and $900 if I add in the ball joints. I have the Hayes manual and VADIS. Hayes indicates this is less difficult than replacing sway bars. It does not look all that difficult, but so many messages appear to declare it a real pain. Is that the case even if I buy control arms with the bushings installed? The car is a 2002 T6 so it seems jacking the motor up .98 inches is required although it looks like an offset wrench might work. I do not have a slide hammer so I might have some difficulty getting the old ball joints out.

Comments are appreciated.

It is not that bad to replace the control arms.

When you are ready to do it let me know and I will post a little walk though on how I do it.

I'm always taking information from this site and never giving it... so I will chime in here. I just did my control arms last weekend. 1999 S80 2.9 non turbo 167K. Its not too bad a job. I did buy new arms with the bushings as I have read prior to my job it is the easiest and most efficient way. I had to raise the engine even though I had an offset wrench because I put new bolts in (recommended) and to get those bolts out raising the engine is required. I did the arms without removing the spindle but had to remove the caliper etc. You can swing the rotor and the drive shaft over just enough to get the new arm in but be careful to recognize if the cv unseats. You'll notice that by just turning the rotor and feel/see the wobble. Just push the cv unit back in until the splines grab again and the rotor/spindle turns normally. Took me about 4 hrs drivers side (newbie time) and about 2hrs passenger side (more experienced now). I was going to do the ball joints at the same time but could not get them out even with an air impact chisel. I think the spindle needs to come off to wrestle them out. Tech please correct anything I have said here if not right. Also while were at it is there an easy way to get those ball joints out?

I always use my Air chisel and just pop the balljoints out after removing the 2 screws.

Thanks Tech. Do you place the air chisel on the exposed lip in the area from above hammering down? I tried that and it looked like if I kept it up the chisel would cut through the lip. What kind of chisel bit do you use? I think I may give it a go again soon.

I use my Air chisel but it also has 120 PSI behind it.
I have never had one cut though the balljoint.

Yes put it on the balljoint lip and go down with it.

I was wondering how long control arm bushings should last. The dealer replaced them in February of 2008 at 81k. The shop that did my inspection said the lower control arm bushings should be done soon at 99k. It could be the dealer replaced only one pair and not all the bushings, but that seems stupid if you got the arm out and its a cheap part. Anyway, if it is the same bushings they replaced at 81k, any thoughts on whether the dealer should replace them as 19k seems really premature for failure.