engine replacement ?
 

I have a 2000 s80 t6 with 113,000 miles, it overheated and I found that it blew the head gasket. I havent decided what to do about it. I have found some products on the internet like "steel seal" and "Thermagasket" that claim to be able to stop the leak. I have looked at getting the gasket replaced but is seems to be about the same cost as dropping a used engine in. I found one with 54,500 miles on it for 1100.00 sounds like a great deal if I can change the motor myself. Can the motor be pulled from the top or does it have to come out of the bottom of the car. I am pretty confident I can swap the engine if I can get it out the top or should I give one of these head gasket products a try and if it works get rid of it?

Engine replacement
 

Just purchased a 2000 S80 2.9 with broken timing belt and smashed valves. Also picked up a "new" used 2.9 motor to replace the bad engine. Did you ever do your engine change? I'm also looking to see if it will come out the top and whether to pull the tranny with it or leave the tranny in the car while pulling.

VADIS says drop it out the bottom, but I looks like there is plenty of clearance to pull it out the top.

I've searched the forum and haven't found any threads where any one has pulled the motor. If there is and I missed it I apologize.

Thanks in advance.
kkottke

If your confident about doing an engine swap yourself, a head gasket replacement would be a breeze to do at 1/2 the price.
Ed

eng replacement
 

kkottke,
I have not done the engine yet so I cannot tell you. Sorry I kinda lost the wind in my sails.

Engine replacement
 

Yeah Ed, that's what I was planning on doing until I noticed when the timing belt went it got tangled on the tensioner pulley and ripped a chunk of the block out where the threads are supposed to be so that kind of ended that possibility.

Pulled the bad motor today. I purchased a new timing kit with belt, idler, and tensioner along with a water pump and new rear main seal. When I was prepping the "new" engine, I couldn't get the new timing belt on. After struggling with it for a while, just to make sure, I measured it up against the old belt and it is a full inch shorter that the belt that was on there.

Evidently there are two different belts. One for the motors that use hydraulic and one for the ones that use mechanical because even though the belt came with a kit that had the tensioner pulley for hydraulic the belt that was in the kit is shorter and is the same length as the one from my bad motor which has mechanical tensioner.

Both VIN numbers indicate a 2000 motor, but the "new" one is a lower production number. They must have switched to mechanical tensioners part way through the 2000 model year?

Just trying to figure out how I'm going to order the correct new belt so I make sure I get the "long" one.

I thought I had to be doing something wrong, but it wasn't even close. 1" difference in length makes a big difference.

The motor pull wasn't too bad. Hopefully it goes back in as smoothly. I ended up leaving the tranny mounted in the car.

Kkottke, I sure wish I had your enthusiasm you made short work of that ,you're not in the denver area are you.

Engine replacement
 

Lol, Stacy, no I'm not in that area.

I got the motor installed today. All in all, it wasn't too bad, I thought it was going to be much worse. Taking it easy, it was about 6 hours taking it out and 7 hours getting back in. Also took a while to figure out there are two different timing belts. One with 146 teeth and one with 152 teeth.

The motor fired right up when finished.

However, there is gas pouring out by the gas tank somewhere. I was hoping just a rusted fuel filter, but it doesn't look like it so I have to do some research on that.

Also, I think the floor was getting wet under the dash. I have to check on that as well.

If you have the skills to swap the motor, why not just replace the head gasket and do a valve job?

Unless you suspect the block is warped or something, all bets are off then!

If you remove the head, you need to spend about $300 on a tool kit to re-align the cams. Makes it easier to justify replacing the engine.