shake and vibrations
 

I have this posted on another site and continuing to find a solution.
I just replaced the lower control arms, sway bar links, inner and outer tie rods. Also the upper strut mounts were replaced. I did the work myself and made sure that all is secured. New tires were installed last month and a four wheel alignment completed after the front end was replaced. But now the car has vibration when accelerating over 65mph. At speeds lower than 55mph the car ride is sweet. Can a warped rotor be the issue or the inner cv axle. There is no clicking on turns so the outer cx axles should be fine.
2001 s80 NA 124,000

did you find the issue? I have the same vibration and have done all the replacements listed above. I believe it is the cv joint axles that are worn.

I just had my new tires rebalanced. At this point I've noticed no improvements.
I'm also thinking at replacing the cv axle. Do you have a place to purchease them?

had this issue too, you got any bet rims?

This has started to become an issue on my Volvo, I know it's not a rim because even after tire rotation the vibration is the same. Everything is original in the front so I'm sure it's bushings, strut mount or something, but need to take some time to figure out exactly what it is.

shake and vibrations
 

Hi there
It could be a warped rotor,had the same problem with the wife's car..not a Volvo but it might be relevant to your problem.Also,I spend thousand of $$ on my old car..not a Volvo..cv axles,rotors,3 different sets of tires,bushings,tie rods,end rods,shocks,motor mounts,ball joints,wheel balance,11 times tire balance and rotations and all of this happen when I put new sets of tires.Don't know if the tire place did something like lifting it or dropped it wrongfully and I was mad as hell.To make the story short,after replacing all these parts..the shake ended up being the
RACK & PINION.Which is expensive and a lot of time consuming,For your sake I hope it's not it....good luck and I hope the info helped..take care;)

Any insight on the inner CV axle being the issue? I'm reading that may also cause these type of vibrations.

Just replaced the RH axle. No change. I must be missing something simple. What about a bad wheel bearing hub?

After my last post, I took the car for another spin. But now my vibration is occurring at a lower speed. The car rides like crap. Is my new axle to blame or replace the left side axle?

Gaining speed on a highway ramp and really pushing the right turn, this is when I feel the vibration from the left wheel area, but not sounds. I'm ruling out the hub bearing and thinking that the left axle needs to be replaced. But I never had an issue with clicking sounds from the axle nor from the wheel bearing. So is it the axle or the wheel bearing or both?

I have replaced pretty much everything on the front end (shocks, spring seats, tie rods, ball joints, rotors, calipers). The only things I have yet to replace are the bearing hubs and axles.

my guess is the axles are just worn and have excess movement make for some vibration.

Perhaps a solution for vibrations:

Retailer Technical Journal 22403
Incorrect wheel hub, Wheel vibrations
Date 02-17-2010
Reference: VIDA, VSTG
Note! If using a printed copy of this Retailer Technical Journal, first check for the latest online version.

**
AFFECTED VEHICLES:
DESCRIPTION:
Wheel vibrations may occur if the wheel is not installed in the exact center position on the wheel hub. To avoid radial misalignment between the wheel and the hub, they must have the same diameters.
It has been discovered on some cars that the wheel hubs (spare parts as well as production parts) may have a center cone with a too small outer diameter. If a wheel is installed on such a hub, it is possible that the wheel is installed with an offset of 1.5 mm (0.059"), which can cause wheel vibrations while driving.
SERVICE:

**
1. If a customer complains about wheel vibrations and it is hard or impossible to remedy the vibration with normal wheel balancing, then check and measure the center cone diameter on the wheel hub.
Correct diameter = 65.0 mm (2.559")
Incorrect diameter found on some cars = 63.5 mm (2.500")

**
2. Check that the hub is not deformed, regardless of diameter.
If this is the case, replace both, the hub and the wheel on the corner of the vehicle where this deformation is found. It is possible that the wheel, in this case, caused the deformation of the hub.
For replacing the wheel, follow VIDA:
INFORMATION
REPAIR
Springs and wheels
Wheels, tyres, hubs
Wheels
For replacing the hub, see step 3.
3. If a hub with the incorrect diameter is found, replace only the hub with the incorrect diameter according to VIDA:
INFORMATION REPAIR
Springs and wheels Wheels, tyres, hubs Hub and bearing
4. Check that the wheels have a center diameter of approximately 65 mm (approximately 2.6").
5. If a wheel with the incorrect center diameter is found, replace only the wheel with the incorrect diameter.
6. When replacing a hub for any reason, first measure the center cone diameter of the new hub in order to prevent repeat repairs. If a new hub is found with incorrect center cone diameter, send in a Service Product Report (SPR) and do not use that hub. Do not send in an SPR for an original hub that has the incorrect diameter.
Note! Include in the repair order text if the hub is original from the factory or if it is a spare Part. Also include if the wheel was replaced.

**
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION

Not sure if this will help but in the past I have jacked the car up with the drive wheels off the ground and accelerated to the speed the vibration occurs at to see which side of the car is vibrating the most.

In some instances I have removed the wheels but reinstalled the nuts to hold the rotors in place and also run the car at the speed the vibration occurred. This will rule out the problems with wheel balance. If one side is shaking more than the other, try switching the rotors and see if the shaking follows the rotor.

I have found problems with improperly factory balanced new brake drums, same could happen with rotors.

Need to make sure there is not a signficant build up of mud on the inside of the wheel or inside the slots of the rotor which can also cause severe vibrations.

If the vibration is sensitive to the amount of acceleration but not speed, it is probably not related to a balance problem. More than likely something is worn.
You may want to verift the bearings in the transaxle which support the drive shaft yokes do not have excessive play.
Take a look at the external bearing on the passenger side of the transaxle which supports the drive shaft.
If possible, check the CV joints as suggested by others.

I'm enjoying replacing my suspension piece by piece. Whether or not they contribute to my vibration, they definately needed replacing! I rather replace them now and having an alignment once!
The only piece that I haven't replace was the ball joints. Looking at them and moving them it seems that they are good. The last time they were replaced was a year ago. But reading on other forums of different manufacturers, they sometimes suggest replacing these lower ball joints because of vibration symptoms. I don't have any clicks or clunks which would suggest a ball joint. Could this be my issue?

You should see play in the ball joint if it is bad.

Check your tires for being out of round and check your rims to see if they are bent as well.

Have you checked the inner and outer tie rod ends for play? Just did mine along with lower control arms and spring seats.

Stay away from NAPA brand spring seats. Cheaply made and do not fit right. Unusual for NAPA parts, typically good quality.