Put a code reader on it and it only came up with P0134 which is O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected Bank 1 Sensor 1 so nothing is popping up that is obvious. I am still stuck on the ETM unless there are any more ideas.

 

If the front O2 sensor is actually dead then it might cause the problem.

 

Do you mind if I asked why? My local dealer said that it should not. He said, and I quote "You can pull the sensor out and it would not affect it."

Now I understand that if the problem is still there, he meant that if I pull it, the problem would still be there. If it was fixed, maybe he meant that there would be no surging if I pulled the sensor. I am not sure though.

Thank you all for all your help so far. This is a mystery to me and I am not dismissing any thoughts. I just want to know why.

 

The front O2 sensor tells the computer how much gas to feed the computer. If it is not working the computer may be dumping way to much gas or not enough for it to run correctly.

Not sure why the Dealer told you that. Maybe a new guy who knows nothing was talking to you. The O2 sensor is a main sensor that keeps the car running properly.

 

I went back to the dealer today and the other guy at the service desk agrees with you tech. On the other hand, the technician who worked on the car said that he did not feel that this is causing the surging but to replace it anyway. I have no problem replacing it but why can they not figure it out?

They said to drive it for 30 to 50 miles after replacing the sensor and then to bring it back in to see if anything new pops up. By the way, they said I should replace the immobilizer ring for it surging while idling. The tech said that this would fix the no start issue I was having. I never said it. What I said was that once, the engine shut off on the highway and I had to wait a few minutes before I could restart it. Yes, it has happened 4 times to me but those words did not come out of my mouth.

Either way, I figured it would not hurt to replace so I just did that myself. Is it the Bosch 17036 that I need? Amazon had it for $114, now it is $124. I have no problem with that. I just want it fixed. I believe that this can do it but man, I seem to be jumping through hoops. I asked if why they cannot just pull up everything that is wrong? He explained that the system can be blinded by another issue, such as the o2 sensor. He claimed that that masks other problems. Therefore, replacing it and driving it further should allow other issues to reveal themselves. Is this true? I am not accusing anyone of being a liar, it just seems lame.

The tech also said that my Turbo Boost Sensor could be bad. Is this a MAP sensor or is it the TCV I already replaced? Thanks again.

 

I think that is the sensor you need.

The Immoblizer antenna ring is only for starting and thats it once the car is started it no longer works.

Sounds like he is talking about the TCV.

 

Just ordered the sensor off of Amazon.com. I am expecting it by the end of the week. Where again is this one located. I know it is before the cat. Bank 1 Sensor 1. Would that be on the manifold or closer to it? Do I need to drop the back half of the exhaust?

 

It is before the cat. Sometimes you can sneak it out without dropping the exhaust. Sometimes you need to drop it.

 

Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

A local shop changed it for $30. I have put roughly 20 miles on the car and the problem is still there. Granted, the car acts smoother in some respects, but it still surges and acts like it is falling on its face. I guess I will meet with the dealer again. Hopefully something else is revealed.

 

I wonder if it is going into overboost and shutting down.

 

Took it to the dealer yesterday and still no word. The service guy I have been working with on this issue since November rode with me and he said it had gotten way worse. He assumed a bad coil but backed off that idea since there are not any warning lights, CEL or otherwise. The day before I took it up these hills that I travel everyday to get home. If anyone here livese near Longview, WA they will know which hill I am talking about on the Oregon side of the Columbia. It is long with a steep grade. My car at 62mph which was about 2300 RPM would hesitate. Pull, no pull, pull, no pull, the whole way up the hill. I am almost over the edge. Forunately the dealer has been very reasonable with me. I am really hoping that it is the ETM but now I am just being optimistic in that sense and only care if it is fixed.

 

Okay, the dealer initially thought bad plugs which I knew was impossible since I changed them less than 2,000 miles ago. They then drove it around with an assortment of guages and found that I lose fuel pressure. Now they are assuming that the fuel pump is going out. This seems to me to be the most rational explanation. I looked in the records I got with the car and it has never been replaced. 150,000+ miles seems like a decent run for a pump. Tech, does it sound reasonable? I'll probably go with a Bosch and the same shop that put in my o2 sensor.

There is no way that I am paying $1030.00 to have the dealer change it. The shop said $133.00 and I can get the Bosch pump for around $366.00. Python makes a version of the pump for $177.82 at auto parts warehouse. If I do not give them my core, there is a$54.90 core charge that is not removed. OE Volvo from the dealer is like $462.00. Has anyone had success with the Python? I know that they manufacture VENOM performance products for a lot of the imports and nitrous applications.

 

Go with the Bosch it is OEM.
Sounds like a pump to me as well.

 

So the fuel pump fixed the surging. The problem now is that the fuel does not read over 3/8 to 1/2 tank even when full. Anybody had experiences of the float arm on the pump bending easily? A friend and I put it in and he said it went in really rough. That was my first red flag that it may have gotten bent in the process. I had considered that it was getting hung up on the long cord of cables that plug into the fuel level sending unit but It acts like it is free. The pump I got was genuine Volvo but the float is a ball rather than the rectangular bar. What is the warranty on these if it is something else?

 

Maybe the float is tangled on the lines/wires for the other sending unit?
I have seen that before.

Also are you sure all the plugs in the drivers side one are plugged in?

 

You were right Tech. My cousin and I tore it apart last night and realized that the arrow on the sending unit (Driver's side) was pointing towards the front of the car rather than the rear. I think that this is an important note that everyone may already know, but the arrows point "up" when you are facing the trunk. After that, make sure all wires are clear and you are good to go. Total cost of project to do myself (with some help from some friends too) was $515. That is exactly half of what the dealer wanted to charge me. This includes the Genuine Volvo pump ($370 via a friend at a local imports shop), the retaining rings (about $10 each) and the o-rings ($22.xx each from the dealer! Ouch!) I even made a trip to a mechanic and he could not figure it out. As you can tell, I am much happier now. Front brakes and a new engine mount are next week. I have Brembo rotors on the way. I can not thank everyone enough. Even though the first post was in February of this year, the problem came up in November of 2008. Peace of mind is priceless.

Thanks again!

 

I received a letter extending the warranty on my fuel pump (2001-2002 model years) to 10 years 150K. Any chance you have a calim?

 

Glad all is well now!!!

 

Hi, can you send me some details PLEASE?, most anything and I will folow up, as I have the same surge issue, and the delarer has yet to find why, new etm, new maf sensor, new coil, plugs ect
cudavid@hotmail.com fax 401 942 1160 w/ my name on it, David Brown.
Thanks, Dave