I know not everyone has the money always to get the job done. I know how it is I have 4 kids and very little money. But the point I am trying to make is that it is better to pay between $700.00 to $800.00 or so. Rather than having to Junk the car or pay over $3000.00 to get the head rebuilt or replaced. Or maybe even more to have a new motor installed.

OMG fellas, this is exactly what we are facing now.....the belt went on vacation, towed to dealer who wants $ 4K to rebuild heads...please...we are towing it home in a couple weeks, then trying to decide what to do...I have a rental car now, which obviously can't go on much longer...we owe 4500 on the car so really what is the best option? well, if this thread can save someone else the trouble its a good thing

the dealer where the car tells hubby the serpentine belt broke, supposedly causing the timing belt to skip 4 teeth which caused internal damadge to heads, apparently the pully froze or something which caused it to shred the timing belt...it didn't make complete sense to us but I guess this happens a lot to this care...we bought it used last year (2000 S80) and likely overdue for the belt, we just overlooked it...we just had it to a local dealer for another minor service issue though, I wish they had reminded us

 

Hey guys, my friend and I replaced my timing belt and tensioner and idler pullys last week. It is not an easy job thats for sure. We got it done and for some reason the belt likes to come off the edge of the spockets and pullys. I tried to move it over the other day but it went right back WTF.

Also the belt is very very very very very tight, we barely got it on and its sitting on with the tensioner all the way loose, it wont go back to the normal position. Do these belt stretch at all??? I got all my parts from FCP Groton.

And my service engine and check engine lights are on....I would like to stay away from the mechanics shop to save some cash.

 

That is weird I have never seen that before.

 

Are you sure you ordered the right belt? Were they the same size? Maybe you can count the teeth. Sounds like it may be a little shorter.

Get it fixed right ASAP. To much tension on those rollers will only cause them to wear super fast and break.

 

Hi,
My 04 S80 has 90k and was planning on waiting until the the originally recommended mileage to change the belt. I was however wondering in the mean time if there is a way to check the condition of the present belt? I used to have a car where you could remove a cover and at least look at the belt with a flashlight and see the condition.

Thanks,
Andrew

 

If it is anything like my 2000 S80, its right on top, remove the top piece that protects the sparkplugs, then remove the plastic piece to the left of it.

 

Hey Andrew: The owners manual will state mileage and/or years. You should go by the soonest. Have you checked the manual? Looking at it usually will not tell you anything.

 

After you change the timing belt mark the sticker with all changed related parts.

 

Hey guys, I just had a 99 S80 2.9 dropped off that was at another shop that couldn't fix it. They basically took the cam gears off unmarked and put them back on way out of time. Needless to say it bent most of the valves. I got volunteered to take on this basket case because my boss knows I "can" do it.

Now I'm trying to put it all back together, but to be honest, I still do not fully comprehend the instructions in the Volvo manual. It just seems like they skipped some steps or something. I don't like second guessing where this could end up costing me a bunch of money should something go wrong. With my experience, I'm sure I can make it run, but I want it to be spot on with NO chance of tipping the valves.

Anyone here that can help clarify the VVT set up, the help would be greatly appreciated.

-R

 

I have the same question as TheRepairMan,,but I'm also at the stage for removing the timing belt. I'm stuck,according to Alldata im supposed to,,Remove

• the vibration damper
• the auxiliaries belt
• the belt cover behind the crankshaft pulley for the auxiliaries belt.

Spray universal oil or similar around the rubber sleeve on the underside of the oil pump.
Remove the rubber sleeve.

Removing the timing belt

Seems it wont come off unless the pulley infront of the crankcase gear (bottom timing belt gear) is removed. Am I missing something? is there a way to feed it thru the bottom and around the gear? I'm also looking for a way to verify the VVT before putting the head back on. Its a 2000 S80 2.9L

 

Ok after some research, on this site lol. I got the gear off by using 2 bolts in the damper and a crow bar between the bolts to keep it from spinning the crank. WOOHOO,,I love it when a plan comes together.

 

Hey guyz, so I was trying to fix some oil leak yesterday, with part of it was putting cam seals. well I noticed that both cams didn't line up the same, either the intake was delayed or the exhaust was advanced. so I've done alot of timing belts and notice a slight hesitation here and there so no problem when I put it all back I'll line everything up right. I have not been able to start the car since and it just makes no sense to me. Crank mark, and two cam marks and it doesn't work. and what is just not common to my is that both cams move about a 1/2 freely. I hear about one moving vvt but 2. i a wondering if someone just got the car working just to sale it to me.

 

Did you have the cams locked in the service position with the lock tool before taking the cam gears along with the VVT unit off? If not you probably have bent some valves by now, if so, you may not have followed the VVT cam timing procedure properly, which could also have resulted in bent valves.

Sounds like you are going to have to run through the whole procedure again and then do a compression test. Let us know what you find.

-R

 

My S80D (2000 reg) recently stopped. The AA breakdown service toom and look and realsied that the timing belt had started to disintergrate which had caused the engine to stop.
My local garage has replaced the timing belt but the car will not restart can anyone suggest why this might be before the costs starts mounting up.

 

I had the timing belt on my 04 XC-70 replaced at 104,500. The cost at Volvo of Charlotte, NC dealership was $575 including parts and labor. Dealer did not replace the serpentine belt or the water pump. Tech said the belt was in very good shape but better safe than sorry.

 

David, the garage that replaced your timing belt may or may not even be able to do the full repair, but most likely yours has bent some valves, in which case the cylinder head would have to be removed and rebuilt, and then the cams have to be re-timed.

See if they will at least run a compression and cylinder leak down test to confirm if that's the reason it won't start, then call your local Volvo Dealership to get an estimate of the repair. You are looking at a costly major repair if all this comes to be the case, as I suspect.

-R

 

well, I did bend my valves, wows just drove the car for a week. Anyway I have mech saying that it is best to put another engine than to machine the heads and put in new valves. Does that sound right. i would think the damage trying to start it than go 60 mph and braking the belt would be different. Man I am happy with my car and I don't think I'm going to lost here yet. but the $ is a problem. Any ideas

 

Decided to machine the heads and put new vales in, at least half of my engine has 0 miles. having a hard time to find a low mileage engine at a price that was affordable for the 2.9 twin turbo.

 

@ Italo: Sorry to hear that you had problems with cam alignment. It is very important to align the crank & cams before you take it apart them recheck it while putting it back together. But most importantly, you should always turn the motor by hand at least two full cycles before you turn the key.

@ Dave: If your timing belt broke while you were driving, you bent valves at that time. The mechanic should have never put a new belt on the car knowing that your belt failed while the motor was running. When a belt fails while the car is running, 95% of the time it damages the engine, valves, etc. Putting a new belt on is just a waste of time and money.

 

I'm on about my fifth or sixth one of these VVT engine, cylinder head rebuilds, with very good success, in as much as I can make them run okay, but a few of them still keep throwing that darn VVT control valve code. The customer doesn't state any odd symptoms, but the check engine light coming on seems to implant in their minds that I did something wrong.

I'm following the VVT cam timing procedures as closely as is humanly possible, but I can't help but feel they were either poorly translated, or some critical steps are missing. Also, looking at the cam sensor data on our SnapOn Motus the numbers don't correspond at all to data posted by Volvo. They are written in two different languages, so my hands are tied when trying to go back and make more precise cam adjustments, or to even correctly diagnos a possible problem with the VVT solenoid, circuit, or the VVT timing unit itself. I am not a happy camper!

I'm almost to the point where I will no longer take the VVT unit and gear lose from its camshaft for any reason. However, my last one came in from another shop as a basket case. All the parts were in boxes in the trunk where someone had attempted to replace the cam seals and ended up out of time and bending nearly every valve then giving up. I got it running again... eventually, and after the customer spent an additional $2,000. Now he calls me every few days wanting to know if I've found a way to keep that check engine light off.

Call me "frustrated" because the VVT set up instructions are very poor at best, plus after having rebuilt almost every type of engine ever built for the US car and truck market over 40 years, I contest that this limitless position, non-indexed, camshaft to gear construction, is the most ignorant engineering design I've ever seen.

-R