2002 S80
Hi everyone, I have been getting some odd sounds from the suspension recently, particularly when making tight turns or going over sharp bumps.. I took the car to my favoured Volvo specialist in Tampa, and he recommended changing the control arm bushings, which were visibly VERY worn, almost completely...

His quote is $150 labour for the front and rear bushings on both control arms.. So 4 bushings.. If I provide the parts, it should run me about $70 (Eeuroparts) for the bushings themselves (Febi).

Do you all think its worth doing this? I have heard in the past that its not worth the trouble and can actually lead to more complications to try to replace these bushings.. If so, i'd love a heads up before I get this done..

While in there, would it make sense to replace my steering stops? I know that they are completely worn and I get frequent rubbing.. However, would this lead to an even further reduction of the turning radius of the vehicle?
My vehicle is supposed to use the 18.7mm steering stop ($10 each)

Thanks

 

Hi,
I'm kind of new to Volvo, but have recently had control arm issues on a 2001 C70. The control arm on my vehicle has a cast in ball joint and if your control arm is similar I'd consider replacing the entire control arm, unless you're quite sure the ball joints are in fine condition.
It really isn't hard to change them yourself. I'd just think about doing it right (replace the control arms) if you're going to make the effort.

 

Well, according to the mechanic, the ball joints appear to be in good condition...
The truth is, there is a significant cost difference between the entire control control arm ($340 for the pair) and the bushings $70 for the set...

Its possible that when we take the control arm down, we could inspect the ball joints again just to be sure..

 

That is really not a bad price.
At work now we use urethane bushings on the front of all the bushings replace now.
Here is a set of front one from a company. They are $60.00 but will last longer than the OEM ones.http://store.powerflexusa.com/shared...t=products.asp
You might be able to find some a little cheaper. But they work awesome.
For the rear ones the FEBI/bilstein is a good bushing.

 

Thanks for the tip tech, do you personally consider the Urethane front bushing better than the febi/bilstein? What would be the advantage of the urethane vs the OEM for this application besides how long it would last..
The cost difference isnt THAT much considering, $52 vs $72 (shipping included) for the pair, was just wondering about your take on this..

Also, would you reccomend changing the steering stops while we are at it? Mine are certainly shot, but I am worried about having an even worse turning radius as a result..

Thanks

 

Double check on the price for the power flex I think they are $59.00 each.
But with that design the pin moves in the bushing. The OEM the bushings and pins are molded together. So the constant flex tears the OEM bushings and will never do that on the power flex ones.

We have customers that have had them for like 3 years already and still look like new overall.(except dirty)

Yes I would do the steering stops as well.

 

I think you are right about the pricing tech.. I guess that considered I will end up going with the febi/bilstein bushings..
Do you know the steering stop size for the 17" s80 wheels offhand or will I have to measure and then order?

Hoping to get all this work done so that I can put my new tyres on, but all this doesnt really solve my hard to identify problem of a metallic grinding noise whenever i lock the wheel full to the right at low speeds or while stopped.. We hoisted the car and tried to diagnose but it only seems to happen when the vehicles weight is pressing on the suspension.. I know for sure its not CV joints, could it be the ball bearing on the end of the control arm?
I will try to take a video of it and post it when I get time, you wont be able to see much, but at least you will be able to hear it..

 

Not sure of the stop size off hand.
Maybe the wheel bearing is the cause.

 

I personally have had trouble with the bushing replacement on other cars. I just bought two new control arms from IPD. They were $85 each. I figure the oem ones lasted 10 years if these last 3 I'm happy. I also got new ball joints and steer stops too. My control arm brushing are so bad that they have ruined my inner tie rods. There is probably a half inch of play if you grab the wheel with the car in the air and wiggle it toe in/out.

 

i had the same problem and had to replace the tie rods because they were so loose the car could not get aligned properly. Set me back about $500. Now the steering rack leaks, and I don't know if there is a connection....

 

$60 is an awesome price.

 

Im still working on troubleshooting this one....
Assuming I have to buy a new wheel bearing, would you all reccomend I go with the OEM brand ***, or should I shop around and try to get a deal?
FCP has a brand GMB for about $50 cheaper than the *** and ebay has even cheaper ones..
I never personally had to change a wheel bearing on a Volvo so I have no idea the importance of brand..

Also, seeing as I am going to change all the control arm bushings, should I consider changing the ball joints while I am at it?

Thanks

 

Well, as a follow up, I changed the control arm bushings using the Febi/Bilstein OEM replacement... Was a bitch to get off and get pressed in but the guy stuck to his original price despite it taking twice as long as he planned.. Honest business

This along with new steering stops (and new tyres) made a big difference...
The grinding noise I was getting on right turns is gone and the handling seems to have improved.. So, it looks like I wont have to change shocks, wheel bearing or any other components to solve this problem..

Thanks for all the help

 

Glad all is good now.