2002 v40
Hello, I am new to the forum and need some assistance.
My car won't hold an idle. I have had a tune up and replaced the coil packs, the oil has been changed and the throttle has been clean and the car still won't hold an idle even long enough for me to take the car to get a reading on it....please help.
Thanks
My car won't hold an idle. I have had a tune up and replaced the coil packs, the oil has been changed and the throttle has been clean and the car still won't hold an idle even long enough for me to take the car to get a reading on it....please help.
Thanks
I'd start by checking for intake air leaks (vaccuum lines/intake air tubing/intercooler) and for exhaust leaks (like around the flex pipe). After that I'd check the fuel pressure - you can even try jumpering the fuel pump relay. As a quick test, on the fuel pressure regulator (plugs into the end of the fuel rail), disconnect the S shaped vacuum line on the bottom and look to see if any fuel drains out. If it does, your FPR has a torn diaphram and needs to be replaced.
Any CEL codes?
Any CEL codes?
I haven't been able to get to a auto store to check for codes.
When the mechanic did my tune up he said that there was oil down in 2 of the spark plug holes which would cause smoke to come from the exhaust. How could oil get down in there?
When the mechanic did my tune up he said that there was oil down in 2 of the spark plug holes which would cause smoke to come from the exhaust. How could oil get down in there?
meaning when he removed the plugs there was oil on the outside? a few possibilities for oil outside the plugs 1) the oil fill cap needs a new gasket 2) the VVT is leaking 2) the PCV hose that runs up top is leaking. Not sure how that would cause oil to come from the exhaust. smoke in the exhaust can either be either an out of tune engine (poor gas mileage?), oil consumption or can be coolant or condensation. Are you consuming oil or coolant? Did your mechanic do a compression test?
Yes, when the spark plugs were removed there was oil down in 2 of the socket and on the spark plugs. I haven't been able to get the car to a shop or auto store to get a reading because the car keeps cutting off.
CEL codes are stored - no need to have the engine running to do the scan. simply plug in your OBD2 code reader into the connector under the dash on the driver's side, turn the key to position 2 and your reader will be able to see the stored fault codes.
The P0301..P0304 are all cylinder specific misfires.
P0014/P0015 are pointing to the VVT solenoid/hub, possibly its sticking since the 14 says the cam timing it overly retarded, the 15 is saying its overly advanced, but can also be caused by an issue with the cam position sensor.
The P0101 and P0102 are pointing at the MAF - 0101 says its signal is "out of range" (ie the ECU is expecting voltage within a high and low parameter), P0102 says the output voltage is too low. The first thing to do is to remove the MAF and clean with a MAF cleaner product (don't use carb cleaners as they are too harsh for the wire grid).
P0171 says the car is running lean. This can be caused by inaccurate air metering from the MAF, as well as air intake leaks. after you clean the MAF, take a look around for any cracked or torn vacuum lines, intake air boots etc.
P0341 says there's something wrong with the cam position sensor. Time to replace and see if this also clears the 0014 and 0015 codes.
P0506 is saying the RPMs don't match the idle air control system's expectations (too low). common cause here is intake air leaks but given your MAF may be acting up, it may just be a sympathy code :-)
So it sounds like you may need to clean/replace the MAF, check for vaccuum leaks and test/replace the cam position sensor. I'd leave the cam sensor for last and focus on the MAF and checking for intake air leaks. One other thing to do is to test the PCV system. (check out Youtube for the "rubber glove" test). If the PCV system is not in good shape, it can be a source for getting oil into the intake and that'll dirty up the MAF.
P0014/P0015 are pointing to the VVT solenoid/hub, possibly its sticking since the 14 says the cam timing it overly retarded, the 15 is saying its overly advanced, but can also be caused by an issue with the cam position sensor.
The P0101 and P0102 are pointing at the MAF - 0101 says its signal is "out of range" (ie the ECU is expecting voltage within a high and low parameter), P0102 says the output voltage is too low. The first thing to do is to remove the MAF and clean with a MAF cleaner product (don't use carb cleaners as they are too harsh for the wire grid).
P0171 says the car is running lean. This can be caused by inaccurate air metering from the MAF, as well as air intake leaks. after you clean the MAF, take a look around for any cracked or torn vacuum lines, intake air boots etc.
P0341 says there's something wrong with the cam position sensor. Time to replace and see if this also clears the 0014 and 0015 codes.
P0506 is saying the RPMs don't match the idle air control system's expectations (too low). common cause here is intake air leaks but given your MAF may be acting up, it may just be a sympathy code :-)
So it sounds like you may need to clean/replace the MAF, check for vaccuum leaks and test/replace the cam position sensor. I'd leave the cam sensor for last and focus on the MAF and checking for intake air leaks. One other thing to do is to test the PCV system. (check out Youtube for the "rubber glove" test). If the PCV system is not in good shape, it can be a source for getting oil into the intake and that'll dirty up the MAF.
I replaced the idle control valve, MAF, & MAP today and still have lots of smoke coming from exhaust. The mechanic feels like the motor is blown....when he pull the dip stick to check the oil its brow. I don't know what I should do at this point.
the mechanic's next step is to do a compression/leak down test and to test for HCs in the coolant. Brown/froth in the oil (on dipstick and under the oil fill cap) can either be coolant from a blown head gasket or could be condensation. The HC test and compression will give more info on the status of the head gasket.
Hello,
I ended up having my car towed to an auto mechanic shop who told me that the stick to the oil pump was disconnected so oil wasn't getting to the engine. They replaced the oil pump and once the car was put back together the mechanic said they started the car and a huge amount of smoke was coming from the exhaust so much so they had to open all the doors to the shop to air it out. He then went on to have the mechanic look at the turbo and saw that it is shot!! I am not sure if I should put anymore money into the car what would you suggest?
I ended up having my car towed to an auto mechanic shop who told me that the stick to the oil pump was disconnected so oil wasn't getting to the engine. They replaced the oil pump and once the car was put back together the mechanic said they started the car and a huge amount of smoke was coming from the exhaust so much so they had to open all the doors to the shop to air it out. He then went on to have the mechanic look at the turbo and saw that it is shot!! I am not sure if I should put anymore money into the car what would you suggest?
I forgot to mention that the mechanic also said the car was misfiring horribly and now it won't run at all. Upon me having my car towed to the auto shop I told them the same things that I have told you so they were aware that the car had smoke coming from the exhaust. Please give me your suggestions at this point.
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