I just bought a 2002 v40 with 34000 miles. Cel came on dealer replaced plugs with autolite coils and air filter. I still had a problem and found a leaky fuel regulator. I am having a problem wit cel on full acceleration. This is a turbo. I dumped fuel cleaner in tank. Car runs great except for cel. I also have problem with heater I replaced resistor and that fixed the problem but still not right. Fan revs up and down.please advise next step. Also could my cel problem come from autolite plugs. I'm not sure if he got the right plugs for a turbo. Any suggestions on what to check with low mileage car. Does timing belt need replaced do to age or is it mileage. Thanks in advance

 

1. timing belts are due at 10 years so time to get that done if it hasn't been done already
2. did you pull the codes for the CEL? I have a $39 code reader from Harbor Freight which works just fine for engine codes. Clear the codes and see what returns.
3. I really doubt your CEL is due to the plugs unless they are woefully wrong. More likely it could be the coils or the connectors going into the coils - they tend to crack. You can cross reference the plugs by number (and I happen to have Autolites in my S40 right now)

 

The coils were just changed. The cel turns itself off. It stayed on when the fuel pressure regulator was leaking and now turns on during frigid temperatures. I live in Pittsburgh and we have had horrible weather. The main problem occurred during full acceleration. The case bucks and feels like it's cutting out. Unless you floor it it's fine. I've owned Volvos most of my life. My friend was a Volvo mechanic and always warned me to use Volvo parts. I think he said other parts malfunctioned because of the voltage. He had worked on Volvos and foreign cars for 50 years. I was basing my opinion on his expertise he told me before he died. When they it starts fine and runs well new plugs arethe ones listwd in manuel. They are double platinum. Autolie makes platinum and copper. I'm sure he used creplaced the plugs the didn't check gap. I know it's different for non turbo but not by a lot. I'm sure he used the cheapest and think the spark might be jumping. I appreciate any advice. I xhecked with the local mechanic he advised belt goes by milage and he has seen very few split. Most stories I read are about high milage cars. I believe the heat has alot to do with confition.is there any way to inspect it. I look forward to hear from you. Thanks for the help. I really like the v40 I haven't seen any others as it was not a popular model. If anyone else would like to chime in I would appreciate any help. Would like to hear from another v40 owner

 

v40s are the same as S40s under the hood... not sure why you are suspicious of the plugs... for $20 go out and buy some OEMs and see for yourself. Most volvo turbos actually run better with the copper cores - the platinums don't fire stronger, they just last longer. Check your gaps with any plug install. Regarding the coils - did you also replace the spark plug wires and inspect the connector to the coil? So moving on, did you replace the fuel pressure regulator? when mine was on its way out, the car would periodically buck and throw a misfire on cyl 3. unfortunately that's the most expensive 15 minute fix as the FPR goes for $200... Don't let the mileage fool you - you are still driving a 15 year old car so rubber bits will dry out/crack etc and that will leak current on spark, fuel from regulator diaphrams and so on.

 

[QUOTE=mt6127;456626]v40s are the same as S40s under the hood... not sure why you are suspicious of the plugs... for $20 go out and buy some OEMs and see for yourself. Most volvo turbos actually run better with the copper cores - the platinums don't fire stronger, they just last longer. Check your gaps with any plug install. Regarding the coils - did you also replace the spark plug wires and inspect the connector to the coil? So moving on, did you replace the fuel pressure regulator? when mine was on its way out, the car would periodically buck and throw a misfire on cyl 3. unfortunately that's the most expensive 15 minute fix as the FPR goes for $200... Don't let the mileage fool you - you are still driving a 15 year old car so rubber bits will dry out/crack etc and that will leak current on spark, fuel from regulator

 

I replaced pressure regulator. I was low on cash so got a used one $17 . Where is temperature at.? I am concerned about plugs because dealer replaced with cheapest available. I will check wires. The original plugs listed in manuel were double platinum . I just happened to see online for $15 So I jumped on them redid gap I haven't installed them yet but I am old school and don't feel comfortable watching someone put in plugs without checking gap. I guess you don't need to now but I would. I have owned Volvos for 44 years my mechanic worked on them longer. He's gone but always stressed Volvo electrical doesnt work on a lot of aftermarket parts. I may be wrong but old habits are hard to break and i5read to many forums that had problems changed plugs and problem was fixed. For $15 it's not a big investment

 

The CEL could be any number of things. You really need the code.
My son bought a 2001 S40 with 62K miles. The timing belt was cracking. You really should replace based on years even if well under the miles.

 

I just checked timing belt no cracks no sign of wear. Hanged plugs the old ones were autolite they were new but crap. I replaced them with new ones I bought on amazon. They are original ones suggested in manuel not made anymore but I guess someone had old new ones. They are double platinum much larger electrodes. Also had a mad that someone gave me I installed. Car runs much better. I don't care what anyone says plugs make a huge difference. I need to replace 2 ends on wires they work but I had to rig them. I love the junk yard. Still have cel it says possible vapor leak. Multiple codes. Funny it only comes on when thank is low. Any advice keep it coming. I appreciate the help

 

Vapor leak comes up on my son's car periodically. Try replacing the gas cap, or at least the gasket. Check for cracked vacuum hoses (including the one on the fuel pressure regulator) and the ones around the vapor canister.

I found that Volvo OEM plugs run best in Volvos. I'm presently on my 4th Volvo. My most recent, 2005 V50 T5, came with Autolite plugs and it started misfiring. OEM Volvo plugs took care of it.

On the heater fan... Replace the cabin air filter if you haven't already. The fan speed control uses a large power transistor located near the fan. These are known to go bad. You can pay big $$ for one new, DIY swapping the transistor or go to the bone yard.

 

I bought my plugs online. If you look they are cheap original equipment are best . They pay a lot of money to make sure. They are discord but still floating around. As far as platinum not working they last 2x as long and run great. I think I traced my problem to evaporative vapor control valve by symptoms. It's located by radiator looks easy to fix. About $30 from fcp. Definitely check wires that go to plugs. Clips seem to bad from heat on me $3 to fix. Purge valve or hose might cause fumes from front that's where gas vapors go.. heater part is also cheap $30 if you buy nonline. T5 looks nice good luck. To guy that just bought car check air and cabin filter cabin is often negleckted.For heater problem i5am going to bone yard to buy new heater controls. I looked online 14 for sale nationwide so worth keeping them running. Once a Volvo nut always a Volvo nut.