V40 Timing Belt & VVT Gear change
 

Hi all. New to the Forum. MY GF has a 2000 V40 with 226k on the clock. It's been well maintained but it's past time for a timing belt change. I'm a former VW Master Tech and not intimidated by a timing belt change, but wanted to get some feedback re: this procedure as I'm unfamiliar with this particular brand & model.

In the process of studying the car I've also discovered the VVT gear is leaking, and possibly the cam seals. I've assembled the parts I need, new Volvo timing belt kit, new Volvo VVT exhaust gear, cam seals & cam bore plug. I've also purchased a cam lock & head repair tool so I can lock the cams in place to change out the VVT gear.

It does appear I'll have to do a lot of disassembly to clear away the rear of the engine enough to install the cam lock tool. Can anyone give me some pointers as to exactly what all I can remove so as to do a minimal disassembly but be able to install the cam lock? Looks like there are quite a few harneses & hoses in the area, but I'd like to do as little as possible to disturb the circuits, etc. This is an old car and my experience is the less you remove the better.

Thanks for any tips. Happy to be a new Forum member!

Took two cracks at the timing but the deed is done. After the fist attempt I got the dreaded P1014 code. I reviewed the procedure and learned that I'd tightened the VVT gear down prematurely in the process. Leaving it slightly looseallowed the tensoner to take up the belt slack without disturbing the crank setting.

On the first attempt I'd removed the airflow sensor and both the injector harness and the ignition wires & coils. On the second go I left the ignition harness in place and just loosened the injector plugs enough to allow the cam locking tool some room to be installed. Having the cam locking tool was essential in order to change the VVT gear and seal. Even better, the crank locking tool that came with the Volvo cam tool set would have maybe not saved time, but would have ensured the crank stayed in place.

I cleared the codes and gave it a hot run this aftermon, no more MIL codes and the performance was fine. Apparently the system will have to go through its adaptive routine gain. It's my GF's car, her verdict will be final.