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Ignition 99 v70 -xc70 2.4l 5cyl

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Old 12-19-2011, 03:17 PM
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Default Ignition 99 v70 -xc70 2.4l 5cyl

Hi all ,
I'm hoping that somebody can help me with my ignition issue.
It's a xc70 1999 turbo 5 cyl 2.4 I believe. I just drove home and got out and got back in within 30 mins .Turned the key in the ignition and there was NOTHING ,not a whimper out of it ,no attempt at turning whatsoever. The radio comes on, the headlights only on High Beam .So when I turn the key the lights normally come on but not this time. I removed the cables from the positive post and replaced it to see if that did anything but no. I then thought that jumping the battery would help but once again ,nothing. Finally the SRS LIGHT IS ON, whatever that might have to do with any of this. All opinions appreciated . The Srs light went off but then the motor started up ,sounding a bit rough and then cut out after 10 minutes from an idle position . I tried starting it again but back to the original state of No click sound ,absolutely nothing but still 12.4 volts in the battey. Happy New Year to you all.
 

Last edited by ODONOVAN; 12-27-2011 at 09:28 AM. Reason: New info
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:51 AM
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Might want to check the ignition switch. Its the actual switch on the back of the lock cylinder.
 
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:51 AM
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Default Ignition

thanks for getting back to me and happy new year. So , you are referring to the actual point where the key goes in. What will I be looking for with this switch.Is there anything about the switch that will confirm this and can I fix the switch or do I have to purchase a new ignition . One other thing .I noticed that the ignition key would not turn for an hour then it did. Could this be sign also. Thanks a lot.
 
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:26 AM
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I'm still new to this Volvo stuff but I have searched various Volvo fora ISO information regarding faulty ignition switches and from what I've read, it sounds like yours needs replacement.

My issue is somewhat different (key will spin the cylinder repeatedly without engaging anything) and I have purchased a replacement cylinder but have yet to install it. I'm told that there are two "torque to yield" bolts which will need to have slots cut into their heads to allow them to be removed. I'm just not ready to do that in the driveway by myself yet so I have found that when I turn the car off, if I avoid touching the steering wheel (ie: DON'T use the SW as an assist for getting in and out of the car), I only have problems with the switch VERY occasionally.
 
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:49 PM
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If the key turns freely (spins all the way around without engaging) or will not turn past position 1 you will need to replace the ignition switch. You can do this yourself fairly simply but it does cost a few dollars: ~$265.00 will get you the new ignition lock and a programmed key from the dealer. Yes the dealer will need to make the key with your VIN since there is a micro chip in the key. With the VIN you will now have a new key that matches all of the other locks in the car. If by chance you are having the problem where you turn the key and nothing happens (no cranking) you probably need a new ignition switch. This is the electrical part that is on the back of the ignition switch which is not included when you buy the mechanical ignition switch.
 
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:43 PM
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Update. Well I have confirmed that the problem is in fact the ignition. I was thinking that it might be something to do with the starter solenoid but I found that with the steering column tilted towards me the ignition starts with no problem but with it pushed up and towards the front ,it has no life. So I have to get in there and see if it's simply a case of a loose something or other.
 
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:27 PM
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Many years ago, I had a 1988 Ford Ranger that had a similar issue. The plastic case that lived in the steering column that held the ignition electronics had separated from years of using the steering wheel as an assist to get in and out of the truck. Pulling on the steering wheel would cause a slight misalignment on the electrical connections resulting in zero response when the key was turned.

The box was epoxied and the problem never occurred again.
 

Last edited by Digmenow; 01-09-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:41 PM
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No loose something, you need a new ignition
As was asid above, about $250 plus labor and coding.
Unless you want another key to stat the car, you need to order one from VOlvo, takes about 10 days from Sweden. They come with a little wallet key but your keys will work once "mated" to your car
It's a PIA to do yourself, you need to drill out the old lock with a 90 degree angled drill
 
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:32 PM
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That problem sounds more like a bad ignition switch. Does the key turn the same way when you don't move the steering wheel? Does it get stuck when you turn it? Are you removing the key from the ignition when it does not work? You can easily replace just the electrical part of the ignition switch for about $60 (which is prone to failure).
 
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