Thanks to post by Tech and some advice from Hummerguy, I decided to tackle changing the Timing belt and water pump. My parts arrived from FCP, so I'll probably start this weekend. (I'm choosing not to remove the dampener) I want to make sure I have everything I need to finish.

Tools-
[ol][*]set of 1/2 & 3/4 metric sockets[*]set of torx bits and keys[*]open/boxed metric wrenches sets[*]ratcheted wrenches set[*]30mm socket[*]1/2 & 3/4 torque wrench[*]breaker bar[/ol]If there is anything vital I'm missing or would make the job easier?

Last minute questions -
[ol][*]Do I need to apply anything to the water pump gasket[*]Do I need to put locktite on the water pump bolts or any of the bolts removed[*]What is the best coolant to get/use[*]What do I use to mark the timing marks...will white out work? or a white sharpie[/ol]I think I asked hummerguy this, but I want to make sure because it's the part that scares me the most. scenario - the Timing Belt is off....and something crazy happens and the intake and exhaust pullies get spun around a few times each.....if I line them up to the marks correctly.....I'm still ok right....or could they get out of phase....like being off 180deg.

The operation will start about 1600 on Sat...wish me luck.

 

You didn't post what model or year car you are working on, so all I can do is reply from my experience of working on an 01 V70 T5. Sounds like you'll have all the tools. I made a very short attempt of trying to domine without removing the damper, and gave up, but I'm not a very patient man. Since you have the 30mm socket why not take off the damper? If you have access to an air gun, it is quite easy, but then you have to keep the damper from turning while tightening. I accomplished this by installing grade 8 type bolts that were 2 inches too long into the 4 small bolts that hold on the damper. Intall them with fingers only until they have full thread engagement. I then used a pry bar to angle in between them, and the bar eventually hit the body and jammed while I tightened down the 30mm to spec. W/out an air gun, you may need this technique when removing. There are risks doing this. If you break off one of these, you need to get it out. Since it's not tightened, it is pretty easy if you know how. If this is above you skill set, then I don't suggest it. Either try as Hummerguy did and do it w/out removing the damper, or get the spanner tool needed to hold the crank.

You can use whiteout or a white grease pencile to mark the timing marks, but it isn't really needed. You will need to make sure all three marks are aligned correctly before starting. Your fear of getting everything out of sync is well founded and the white marks will help in watching if there is any movement while doing things. I can see if you try to remove the damper w/out a means to secure it from rotating will cause these kinds of problems, but if you are aware and watch for movement, then you'll be fine. As stated earlier, if you go the route of not removing the damper, the chances of movement to cause problems is almost non existant. Once the belt is removed, my experience was the intake cam moved about one tooth, but I just grabbed it and move it back! Remember to follow the techniqure of rotating the marks 90 degrees past and then coming back into alignment. I did this, and had no issues. Reading the forums it seems to have something to do in setting up the variable timing I think??? If your very worst fears happen and everything moves you can recover. Align the cam marks, and turn the crank until you feel compression on the No. 1 cylinder, and then align its mark. You must feel compression otherwise it will be 180 degrees out. I'd also highly suggest you count the teeth on the timing belt between the cams BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE ORIGINAL. This will give you extra assurance you have it installed correcly when you put on the new one.

Wish I could comment on the water pump, but didn't do mine. Was told to do that every other belt change. I did change my serpentine belt however, and would recommend that unless it is rather new.

You CAN DO THIS!!!!! However w/out knowing your skill level, have a back up plan if you need to get hold of us here, and we're playing a round of golf (hay, it's expected to be mid 70's here in Vacaville, CA this weekend)!!!!

Jerry

 

Make sure you have a 6MM allen wrench.
Other than that you should have all you need. Make sure you have enough extensions to reach to outside the fender.

 

I thought I had my car in my sig....hmmm...Anyway...it's a '01 XC70

Experience-wise....for my other car ('91 4Runner) I do most routine tune-ups, brakes/shocks..etc myself....also, driveline repairs...u-joints, wheel bearings...engine stuff especially dealing with timing is were I'm a little anxious.

As far as patience....I have tons....I scheduled 3 days for this ....I'm doing TB/WP/Serp Belt/thermostat/Air & Cabin filters...oil was changed a few weeks ago and SP were changed by PO right before we bought it a few months ago.

When you talk about feeling compression in the #1 Cyl....do you mean put a tester on it? I have one, but I don't think it will reach down these long SP tubes.

Tech,
Do I need to put locktite on the bolts or sealant on the WP gasket and what coolant do you recommend?

 

You can put a little bit if the new water pump doesn't come with new screws with it on there already.

I would take a little bit of gasket sealer or something like that and glue the gasket to the water pump to make it easier to install everything.

A decent brand of Green coolant will be fine. Some use prestone and other just use a cheapy store brand.

 

Thx....I bought new bolts when I ordered the WP.

 

I've never had to check for the TDC on a newer Volvo, but those I have done in the past was with a simple finger in the hole. Now that you mention it, that might be on long finger for this car, Ha Ha!!!! All you need to do is verify there is air coming out the hole as the engine rotates (trying to build compression). Logic says if it was 180 out it would be sucking!!!

Good luck, please keep us posted on how you do. Many new members will appreciate how it turns out and may encourage them to take it on too!

Jerry

 

As long as the timing marks are lined up it DOES NOT matter if it is on compression stroke or not.

All you are doing is removing the belt and putting a new one on.

The stroke does not matter.

You can have it anywhere you want if you really wanted to as long as you marked it and just swapped the belt it would not matter.

 

Tech,

I think he was refering to having moved the crank and cams when the belt was off. Yes, with the belt on properly, all one needs to do is line up the 3 marks like you stated.

When finding the correct alignment when the belt was off and things have moved significantly you need a little different procedure. The cam and crank turn at different rates, so once the cam marks are on line, you still need to find the crank TDC on a compression stroke. You wouldn't need to do this if the crank and cams turned at the same ratio.

Jerry
01 V70 T5

 

Actually Tech I gave this more thought after I signed off and realize you are correct! I'm too old school and am going back to the days when this was the process for a car with a distributor so it stayed in sysnc with the rest of the engine. This now leads me to ask a new question:

With the coil packs the modern engines have do they fire twice on the 4 cycle? How does spark management know which cylinder to fire? I'm relatively new to this type Volvo as my prior Volvo was a P1800ES that finally went to the grave yard with almost 400K miles!

Jerry

 

It knows from a combintaion of signals from the cam and crank sensor when to fire each cylinder.