After repeated unsuccessful postings here, I decided to post on another Volvo forum. I thank you all for the wealth of information I've found here. Hopefully all of the issues with the site can be worked out.

http://www.volvo-forums.com/t22870-1...ent-w-pics.htm

 

BAustin,

Thank you very much for the detailed pictures. I have a similar thing happening to mine and I am going to pull these panels off and see if this is leaking.

A+

 

Thanks for the pics and the writeup.

I'm hoping I won't have to do this, but it's nice to see HOW to.

I'm about to wade into an ABS replacement myself.

Now here's my question, hopefully someone can help.

I currently occasionally get a waft of the sweet smell, but it's not anything like you've shown in your pics. It's one of those things that's been on my mind for a while, but it's not a big enough issue to really worry about.

However, while I'm in DIY mode with my ABS unit I got to thinking about this.

What was the progression like to get to the point where you needed to fix it? Did it slowly build over time? How long did it take to get to the point where you needed to fix it right away?

I'm only planning on holding onto the car for the next two years or so, do you think I'd have to deal with it in then? It's a 99, so I know she's getting a little long in the tooth, but I'm trying to get a better top down view on what I should be expecting over the next few years to decide if I should bite the bullet and replace it with something now, or hold on.

Thanks!!!

 

I just started this project this evening.
Initially I believed it was the O ring connection, but after getting the pcs. all apart, alas the leak is from higher up beyond the O ring connection

 

HELP!
I followed the tips suggested in the accompanying article to the point where I am ready to remove the heater core.
I undid all the screws as was suggested, disconnected the 2 tubes that come down from the firewall.

I managed to dislodge it, but it is tight and I am afraid of breaking something inside.

Is there a proper or trick way to get it out and the new one in??

Thanks, I need to get this done, my wife is getting cranky about using my work truck.

 

is that it? that's easy as cracking open a fresh beer! I'm on it as soon I order the heater core, which will be next week!...thanks for saving me a headache and loss of cash to the dealer in labor.

 

Followed the link above, installed a new heater core from FCP Groton. Took about 90 minutes, no issues at all. Cost me $136 shipped, Cake Walk!

 

Has anyone else had coolant pour into their cabin while disconnecting the tubes? And yes, I did drain the coolant before starting this, but its like the core stayed full of coolant and dumped onto the floor as soon as I started to pull the core away from the tubes.

Also, did everyone else follow the instructions from FCP groton and use 4 o-rings, 2 on each tube? I only found 1 on each tube when I pulled it apart, and it still had the original volvo core inside. I am assuming volvo only used 1 on each tube when it was originally installed. There was also some thin rubbery gunk around the tubes that looks like a sealant. Should I be using something to seal it up that is not mentioned here?

Just a note to other potential backyard Volvo mechanics looking to do this job... I encountered some additional steps to the writeup listed with pics. I had to take out my glove compartment to release the panel below it to get at some of the sarcophogus screws. The panel on the driver side only had a couple screws in it that were easy to find.

Thanks in advance for any insight on my findings above.

-K

 

Use one o-ring per tube. No sealer. I use compressed air after disconnecting the lines to blow most of the coolant out of the heater core.
I pinch off the heater hoses and do not drain the entire system.

 

Tech, thanks for the input. When you say you blow compressed air through the core after disconnecting the lines, do you mean you disconnect the lines that run to the core from the other side of the firewall? Which ones? I have already completed the project, but this would be handy to know.
Also, should I not have drained the entire system? I drained from the bottom of the radiator, and then of course everything that came out of the core. Then when I filled the expansion tank, it took forever and a lot of gurgling to fill everything back up. When I started the car up afterwards, everything seemed fine. I used prestone green 50/50 with propylene glycol.

Think everything should be ok?

Thanks so much for your help.

-K

 

Everything should be fine.
I disconnect the hoses under the hood at the firewall.(Heater hoses from motor to firewall) I also pinch the hoses off before disconnecting them.

 

please don't ever take this down.

 

I purchased a heater core from FCP Groton and it came in at a total of ~$145 which was fine. The brand of core I received was Nissens and when I was swapping them I noticed a few differences that (as a mechanical engineer) I didn't want to ignore.

1. The Nissens brand was a bit narrower (~.25" per side) which would allow air in the sarcophagus to flow around the core and thus heat less. To remedy this, I tore the foam liner off the old core and taped it on top of the new foam on either side. (I used small duct tape loops in between but perhaps a glue like hot glue would have been better) This widened the core enough that not much air could flow around it.

2. The Nissens core flange did not fit flush when installed within the sarcophagus. Instead it warped around the screws a bit which allows a significant amount of air to leak out of the sarcophagus instead of through it to the vents. Since I didn't feel it important to warm the cavity behind the instrument panel, I taped strips of duct tape around the flange joint. This sealed it up very nicely. I immediately noticed a boost in the air velocity from my vents.

3. The Nissens heater core came with 2 o-rings from FCP Groton that looked to be viton or buna-n rubber. However, I didn't know they were included. The website suggested I would need o-rings to go with core so I purchased their silicone rings as well. Upon dis-assembly I found that I only needed 2 o-rings. I used the silicone o-rings and threw away the black rubber ones because silicone is a better high temperature material. If you are short on cash and don't want to waste money, you can surely use the black rubber rings and not purchase the extra silicone rings like I did.

Finally, after 2.5 hours of labor (I am a slow/deliberate mechanic ) my car is now pumping piping hot air out of the vents and I can't wait for sub-zero weather. No more smelling of AF either. This install was really as easy as everyone suggested. I'm so thankful to Volvo Forums and its community for sharing so much information.

Happy Heating!
-Sven

P.S. - For those that don't have shop air (like me) you'll not be able to blow the fluid out of the core. Therefore, I used a new (i.e. no holes) trash bag and put it around the bottom of the core when I separated it. This worked like a charm as all the coolant (maybe a quart?) ran into the bag on the driver side floor and I didn't get a drop on my car.

 

Hey, I have the same car like yours, 1998 V70 standard, have heater problem, the car heats ok when not too cold, but in the winter it takes too long to get some heat in the cabin, and when the car is at normal operating temperature, if I turn on heater sometimes the temperature will drop back down a litle bit. the car does not drain courant anywhere in the cabin, but a few month ago my radiator had a leak and I had to seal it with temporary alluminum radiator sealant.
Now, if I have to replace the heater core, isn't it a good idea to replace the radiator the same time?
Thanks.

 

Sounds like a bad thermostat.

 

I took the car yesterday to the dealer a a Machanic said radiator might clogged and need to power flush it. But I dubt that since my engine temp is always correct.
He checked the heater core and is ok, I suspect that maybe the air duct might be clogged instead.

 

Sorry but I still say thermostat. They very commonly go bad.

 

I just started this project this evening.
Initially I believed it was the O ring connection, but after getting the pcs. all apart, alas the leak is from higher up beyond the O ring connection

 

You're verry correct! I changed thermostat yesterday and my heater works like charms! Thank you Tech

 

Glad all is good now!