Hi All
I have a 2010 Xc60 that has over 200K that my daughter is driving at college.I took the car to fill up the gas for her and when I left the gas station the car ran kinda funny, stumbling but able to accelerate, after a few miles it cleared up, maybe air in fuel line idk. At a light is when I first got the Charging failure warning light to come on. I shut off the car took a look and drove off with out the light coming back on for another 10-15 miles. I put in a new battery, the car sat for a while in my driveway, drove around and was fine. I tool a look with my code reader and nothing is logged in the system. I drove the car to her school over 45 miles away with no warning, daughter drove a couple of days and then it cam back on again. I worked on that car for a few months and not a single error then the day I deliver the car to her it started.
Researching this error a lot of people have reported it could be an alternator or more popular is the RTD (Radiator Tamper Device) and the regulator on the alternator. Before I spend $750 with core, can a shop or a dealer grab the codes to read or is there something else that I can try? I hate to throw money at it to see if it'll work. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

Yes a Volvo dealer or a shop with the full VIDA set up can grab more details than the OBD2 codes will show. I had a similar experience with my VW CC and it was diagnosed by the dealer with help from the factory rep as too much resistance in a cable (not sure if I agree with that but that's what was replaced).

 

Is there any way to know which alternator I have by VIN or any other tell tale so I could pick one up. Seems that even alternators from stores like advanced auto to replace OEM dont necessarily work correctly on these cars.

 

+1

 

I see two part numbers for the alternator - one is 150A (36000210) the other is 180A (36012382). You should be able to find the PN on the alternator housing. Volvo also sells the voltage regulator PN 30667685. You can google "Volvo" along with the part numbers to see dealer store prices for genuine. Given you can get the voltage regulator for about half the price of the alternator, it may be worth having the current unit bench tested. Did you do any voltage tests at the battery to see if the alternator is producing enough current? battery should bet 12.6V car off, ~14.5v car running with no load, 13.5V with a load (high beams/rear defrost/AC blower on high etc). Any battery warning light sightings or just a battery that drains? Did you test the car for a current draw (pop off a battery terminal and measure the current draw with the car off, key out etc.? Not sure of the acceptable value - have to google for that...

Check this post for some food for thought discussion on current draw issues:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=84880

 

Well the battery went low enough to make all the idiot lights go off. I'm just going to buy an alternator and regulator at the same time to get it to just work for longer than 3 months. Like mentioned above there is a 150 and a 180 amp. how can I find which without having the car local so I can purchase ahead of install. I've seen that purchasing from Advanced Auto or Autozone dont work well or are iffy in working, I dont know.
is there a way to know which alternator or if the info. I saw Is true about Advanced auto or Autozone? or may Napa works?
I've seen I had asked this before in this thread 😖